Oil Consumption Issues on a 1.8T
Hi guys, Usually you will find me over on the A6 forum where I find answers for my 2000 A6, but my wife has a 1999 1.8T Passat (ok I know it is not an A4, but the engine is the same).
I seam to be having oil consumption issues, I am not exactly sure of the rate of consumption but just as it comes up to time for an oil change it seem to be worse. Any ideas of anything I could check.
PS. i know it is not a leak it is consumption.
I seam to be having oil consumption issues, I am not exactly sure of the rate of consumption but just as it comes up to time for an oil change it seem to be worse. Any ideas of anything I could check.
PS. i know it is not a leak it is consumption.
it wouls help us to know where the level is on the dipstick......how frequent you change the oil, and what kind of oil you use
cars burn about 1 quart of oil every 2 thousand miles.... if you are using conventional oil that will be worse for your car...
moaR info please
cars burn about 1 quart of oil every 2 thousand miles.... if you are using conventional oil that will be worse for your car...
moaR info please
I always use fully synthetic either castrol or Mobil 1 and either 5w 30 (summer) or 5w 40(winter). Typically when ever it is low it will take around 2 quarts and that is usually once an oil change which I typical do every 5000 miles.
Coolant is good, still nice and pink, and when I stick my finger into the tank it comes out nice and clean. Also no emulsion in the oil when I look at it on the dipstick.
How would you suggest checking the Turbo?
How would you suggest checking the Turbo?
and it is suggested you change your oil ever 3000 miles
As far as the oirignal poster, run half a can of seafoam in the crank case for a couple of miles and change your oil with some 15w40 and see if your still burning oil
What? The "w" has nothing to do with winter. And there is no need to change your oil every 3k miles unless you flog on it for those 3k miles. With synthetic oil you can go over 5k miles just fine. Hell with amsoil you can go 15k to 25k miles between oil changes as long as you change your filter every 5k miles.
As far as the oirignal poster, run half a can of seafoam in the crank case for a couple of miles and change your oil with some 15w40 and see if your still burning oil
As far as the oirignal poster, run half a can of seafoam in the crank case for a couple of miles and change your oil with some 15w40 and see if your still burning oil
you guys must know nothing about motors or oil, the w in 5w30 does stand for winter.......
and to change your oil at 15 or 25k is like saying i can change my timing belt when i want
ludacris......... i have seen way too many engines come in sludged from improper oil change intervals.......
in 10W/40 motor oil, the W stands for weight, right? Wrong. It stands for Winter.
A vehicle's oil has to be thick, but not too thick. It is important that in the winter, the oil be thin enough to allow for the engine to start. But when the engine is warm, the oil must be thick enough to lubricate properly. That's where the numbers come into play.
Neither number corresponds to an actual 'weight,' even though that is the term most people use when referring to motor oil. The viscosity (flow resistance) is tested by allowing a small amount of oil to flow through an aperture. The quicker the oil flows, the lower the rating numbers.
The first number rates the viscosity of the oil at a temperature of 0 degrees F, mimicking cold winter weather, which is why the 'W' designation is added at the end of the first number. The second number repeats the test at 210 degrees F., or normal operating temperature for a fully-warmed engine.
The 'W' rating can be 5, 10, 15 or {20;} lower numbers mean the oil is thinner in cold temperatures, necessary for icy climates. The second number rating (meant to represent normal operating temperature of an engine) can be 20, 30, 40 or 50. Warm-weather spots usually require oil in the upper end of that range that can handle extreme heat.
http://www.mentalfloss.com/archives/archive018.htm
and to change your oil at 15 or 25k is like saying i can change my timing belt when i want
ludacris......... i have seen way too many engines come in sludged from improper oil change intervals.......
in 10W/40 motor oil, the W stands for weight, right? Wrong. It stands for Winter.
A vehicle's oil has to be thick, but not too thick. It is important that in the winter, the oil be thin enough to allow for the engine to start. But when the engine is warm, the oil must be thick enough to lubricate properly. That's where the numbers come into play.
Neither number corresponds to an actual 'weight,' even though that is the term most people use when referring to motor oil. The viscosity (flow resistance) is tested by allowing a small amount of oil to flow through an aperture. The quicker the oil flows, the lower the rating numbers.
The first number rates the viscosity of the oil at a temperature of 0 degrees F, mimicking cold winter weather, which is why the 'W' designation is added at the end of the first number. The second number repeats the test at 210 degrees F., or normal operating temperature for a fully-warmed engine.
The 'W' rating can be 5, 10, 15 or {20;} lower numbers mean the oil is thinner in cold temperatures, necessary for icy climates. The second number rating (meant to represent normal operating temperature of an engine) can be 20, 30, 40 or 50. Warm-weather spots usually require oil in the upper end of that range that can handle extreme heat.
http://www.mentalfloss.com/archives/archive018.htm
I question your knowledge about autos because of a few things you have said. Saying that cars burn a qt or more of oil is normal??? Maybe if your rings a shot to hell or your motor is crap. But a good motor should burn or leak little to no oil. And by saying 5w30 is winter oil... what? Its a multiple viscosity oil not a winter oil.
I wouldn't go 20k miles with changing the oil if its really hard miles or if your using crap oil, but if your using royal purple, redline, or Amsoil and you drive like grandpa then your likely fine. Although I would get an oil analysis done after 6k miles to see what they say.
I may not have been around VWs or Audis for very long but I have been tinkering with cars long enough to know whats what.
If you wanted to be helpful you should have suggested maybe changing to a heavier oil...
I wouldn't go 20k miles with changing the oil if its really hard miles or if your using crap oil, but if your using royal purple, redline, or Amsoil and you drive like grandpa then your likely fine. Although I would get an oil analysis done after 6k miles to see what they say.
I may not have been around VWs or Audis for very long but I have been tinkering with cars long enough to know whats what.
If you wanted to be helpful you should have suggested maybe changing to a heavier oil...
you guys must know nothing about motors or oil, the w in 5w30 does stand for winter.......
and to change your oil at 15 or 25k is like saying i can change my timing belt when i want
ludacris......... i have seen way too many engines come in sludged from improper oil change intervals.......
in 10W/40 motor oil, the W stands for weight, right? Wrong. It stands for Winter.
A vehicle's oil has to be thick, but not too thick. It is important that in the winter, the oil be thin enough to allow for the engine to start. But when the engine is warm, the oil must be thick enough to lubricate properly. That's where the numbers come into play.
Neither number corresponds to an actual 'weight,' even though that is the term most people use when referring to motor oil. The viscosity (flow resistance) is tested by allowing a small amount of oil to flow through an aperture. The quicker the oil flows, the lower the rating numbers.
The first number rates the viscosity of the oil at a temperature of 0 degrees F, mimicking cold winter weather, which is why the 'W' designation is added at the end of the first number. The second number repeats the test at 210 degrees F., or normal operating temperature for a fully-warmed engine.
The 'W' rating can be 5, 10, 15 or {20;} lower numbers mean the oil is thinner in cold temperatures, necessary for icy climates. The second number rating (meant to represent normal operating temperature of an engine) can be 20, 30, 40 or 50. Warm-weather spots usually require oil in the upper end of that range that can handle extreme heat.
http://www.mentalfloss.com/archives/archive018.htm
and to change your oil at 15 or 25k is like saying i can change my timing belt when i want
ludacris......... i have seen way too many engines come in sludged from improper oil change intervals.......
in 10W/40 motor oil, the W stands for weight, right? Wrong. It stands for Winter.
A vehicle's oil has to be thick, but not too thick. It is important that in the winter, the oil be thin enough to allow for the engine to start. But when the engine is warm, the oil must be thick enough to lubricate properly. That's where the numbers come into play.
Neither number corresponds to an actual 'weight,' even though that is the term most people use when referring to motor oil. The viscosity (flow resistance) is tested by allowing a small amount of oil to flow through an aperture. The quicker the oil flows, the lower the rating numbers.
The first number rates the viscosity of the oil at a temperature of 0 degrees F, mimicking cold winter weather, which is why the 'W' designation is added at the end of the first number. The second number repeats the test at 210 degrees F., or normal operating temperature for a fully-warmed engine.
The 'W' rating can be 5, 10, 15 or {20;} lower numbers mean the oil is thinner in cold temperatures, necessary for icy climates. The second number rating (meant to represent normal operating temperature of an engine) can be 20, 30, 40 or 50. Warm-weather spots usually require oil in the upper end of that range that can handle extreme heat.
http://www.mentalfloss.com/archives/archive018.htm
Last edited by juxsa; Apr 14, 2009 at 09:36 PM.


