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Oil Pressure Light (Pull oil pan?) Heat/ABS problems too

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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 09:29 PM
  #1  
browny355's Avatar
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Default Oil Pressure Light (Pull oil pan?) Heat/ABS problems too

Just purchased an Audi A4 1.8t that was not starting. Turns out the Cam Shaft tensioner failed. I installed a new one and got the car running, but now the oil pressure light comes on around 2k RPM. I have to drive the car for about five minutes to get it on and it goes out at RPMs higher than 2k. There was metal and plastic in the oil pan from the old tensioner. I flushed out the oil pan as best I could and got most of the plastic. The light still comes on. Does the oil pump screen need to be replaced and how hard is it to get the oil pan to come off?

Also
1) Power locks and Keyless locks are not working
2) ABS light is on and the car needs new brake pads. Will new pads shut this off?
3) Heat is also not working in the car. Car does not overheat.

Any help would be appreciated!
 
Old Dec 29, 2010 | 09:48 PM
  #2  
A4 2000's Avatar
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From: Lancaster, CA
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Originally Posted by browny355
Just purchased an Audi A4 1.8t that was not starting. Turns out the Cam Shaft tensioner failed. I installed a new one and got the car running, but now the oil pressure light comes on around 2k RPM. I have to drive the car for about five minutes to get it on and it goes out at RPMs higher than 2k. There was metal and plastic in the oil pan from the old tensioner. I flushed out the oil pan as best I could and got most of the plastic. The light still comes on. Does the oil pump screen need to be replaced and how hard is it to get the oil pan to come off?

Also
1) Power locks and Keyless locks are not working
2) ABS light is on and the car needs new brake pads. Will new pads shut this off?
3) Heat is also not working in the car. Car does not overheat.

Any help would be appreciated!
Sounds like you have a long project ahead of you. First off I'd remove the valve cover to check for sludge since that's a common problem with these motors. One sign of sludge in an engine is the oil pressure light coming on, but let's hope that replacing the screen will fix this. Taking the oil pan off isn't easy unfortunately. You can either lift out the engine or remove the parts that are blocking it from the sub frame. With the locks, you probably need 1 or more door lock actuators. The ABS is on maybe from a bad sensor or you might be showing signs of a bad wheel bearing. The brake pad sensors have a separate indicator light from the ABS. As for your heater, it sounds like you might need a new heater core.
 
Old Dec 30, 2010 | 01:41 PM
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browny355's Avatar
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Thanks for the reply. I had the valve cover off to do the tensioner and there was no sludge. I'm going to try going with a heavier oil since the pressure light only seems to come on when the oil is hot. There was a lot of metal in the oil when I did the oil change, so there's a good chance it is the oil screen, but I'm hoping it will not come to that. As for the locks and brakes, thanks for the help.
 
Old Dec 30, 2010 | 01:56 PM
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I would pull the pan and check the condition. It could have been sludged and someone tried to clean the valve cover but did nothing else. Low oil pressure can kill the cam chain tensioner, I believe. The main thing to look at is the screen for the oil pickup tube. If you see sludge, clean it out, clean/replace that screen and start doing short interval oil changes using cleansing products like AutoRX and good oil and good oil filters.

You should be using 0w40 or 5w40 oil.
 
Old Dec 31, 2010 | 12:02 AM
  #5  
A4 2000's Avatar
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From: Lancaster, CA
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Originally Posted by dragonrage
I would pull the pan and check the condition. It could have been sludged and someone tried to clean the valve cover but did nothing else. Low oil pressure can kill the cam chain tensioner, I believe. The main thing to look at is the screen for the oil pickup tube. If you see sludge, clean it out, clean/replace that screen and start doing short interval oil changes using cleansing products like AutoRX and good oil and good oil filters.

You should be using 0w40 or 5w40 oil.
I agree. Doing a couple of Sea Foam treatments might be worth trying too, before doing any extensive work. Most people will suggest only using fully synthetic oils with these motors too. Who knows, you might get lucky.
 
Old Dec 31, 2010 | 01:59 PM
  #6  
SICKB5's Avatar
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From: DALLAS, TEXAS
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so far we are on the right path.. take the oil cap off and look at it, thats a real simple way to check for sludge.. and you will want to pull that oil pan abnd check the pick up tube, for it may be stopped up, so you could clean it or replace it. you will want to do this ASAP before the sludge kills the motor.

now for the heater core i wouldnt jump to getting a new one. try to flush it first search for threads on it i gave a really detailed instructions on one to a guy that should make it easy for you. if you flush is and it doesnt work.. it could be your thermostat if your temp gauge is reading right.. and if its reading funny you will need to start with the ect and a new o-ring.
now if that all fails you come out with a new ext and new thermostat, and you then know you need a new heater core.

abs like "a4 2000" said bad sensor possibly bad wheel bearing.

and the same on the door locks when you lock it with your key check on both the d/s door and p/s door for the red lights to come on and blink if they dont then you will need new acuators. and to reprogram your remote. maybe check the battery volts to its suppose to have over 3.0 volts to work.
 
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