Steering Feels Dangerously Loose
I'm definitely leaving the frame repair to a professional. As far as the subframe goes, it should be a fairly simple (although time consuming) removal and replacement procedure. I've had to move the subframe before to replace my oil pan, and I don't see this being a whole lot different. As long as I have the alignment checked afterward I don't see how I could really screw anything up. I'm fairly knowledgeable but I'm no expert, so please let me know if I'm wrong, or if there's anything I've overlooked.
Yep, the problem is still there euro_2nr, just finally getting around to fixing it.
Yep, the problem is still there euro_2nr, just finally getting around to fixing it.
First thing i would do is jack the car up and set the front end on jack stands placed under the lower control arms. Wiggle the tire side to side and check for free play. (you'll feel the difference between free play and moving the steering) if there is free play look at the tie rod joints. If the joint seems to be separating or shows play that is some or all of your problem. Now if there is no free play or the problem persist after repair it is definitely the rack.
Me personal guess is that it is your rack considering your history and symptoms. And the fact you have an un-located pwr steering leak lean me more to the rack as well. Possibly popped seals in the rack causing the fluid to leak beyond the tie rod boots or steering column seal.... Let us know if ya get it fixed
Me personal guess is that it is your rack considering your history and symptoms. And the fact you have an un-located pwr steering leak lean me more to the rack as well. Possibly popped seals in the rack causing the fluid to leak beyond the tie rod boots or steering column seal.... Let us know if ya get it fixed
Thanks for the tips guys. I was thinking the rack could be the problem too, as I have replaced most everything else with the exception of the much needed body work. I'll have the frame straightened, replace the subframe, fix the leaky banjo fitting, then look at the rack a little closer.
Here's something from the estimate from the collision center,
"The wheel base is 103 inches, the left front is perfect, the right front is back 1/2 inch. I could not find any damaged or broken parts. The sub frame is out of square with the body, would need to loosen the sub frame and pull the right side forward and retighten. Some of the suspension has been replaced and this could be part of the problem."
They only charged me $50 because they only used the alignment machine instead of the frame machine. One thing that does have me a little concerned is that they said nothing about the frame itself, even though at least one of the frame rail ends is clearly not where it should be. Could just adjusting/retightening the subframe really make the frame rails line up the way they should?
"The wheel base is 103 inches, the left front is perfect, the right front is back 1/2 inch. I could not find any damaged or broken parts. The sub frame is out of square with the body, would need to loosen the sub frame and pull the right side forward and retighten. Some of the suspension has been replaced and this could be part of the problem."
They only charged me $50 because they only used the alignment machine instead of the frame machine. One thing that does have me a little concerned is that they said nothing about the frame itself, even though at least one of the frame rail ends is clearly not where it should be. Could just adjusting/retightening the subframe really make the frame rails line up the way they should?


