fumoazul, I noticed the same thing about the CVs only being available for the 2.8s, I searched through their store but didn't find anything being referenced to the 1.8s... If you do end up e-mailing them, post back over here with their response, I'm also down for saving a few bucks, lol.

Thanks for the advice on the bearing, I've heard the same thing from a couple of people and I want to get that fixed ASAP.

ImTheDevil, you rock man, thank you for all your help, it is greatly appreciated.

 

no problem duderseb... i will deff post back up and see what they say about the cv's... im buying them friday if they say they work with the 1.8t's...

1.8TNYC... thats for the help... but that noise sounds more like a buzzin noise... mine sounds more like winding, when i have the mechanic fix the cv's i will ask him to see what he thinks it is and then im going to go from there... im crossing my fingers it isnt anything too bad...

 

Yeah, please let us know, I need one myself, and 50 bucks is a good buy.

 

so im trying to buy the cv boot kit... what do i exactly need? ive seen it called a couple of things... these r my choices...

1).http://www.foreigncarpartsonline.com...ch&weight=0.90

2)http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3D10%26ps%3D63

3) http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=F4A1016-C


what do i exactly need? Im trying to fix the clacking noise that you can hear when turn left or right from a dead stop...

 

i dont know what the difference is but one kit says cv joint kit and one says cv boot kit.... the difference is a metal round thing about the size of the rubber boot...

 

so i just called them and asked about the cv joint boot kit and its 186 bucks... funny thing is that they sell the same thing on ebay for 54 but its only for the 2.8? i think i might just spend the extra cash and buy them off blauparts... what does everyone think?

 

The boot kit won't fix it - that's only for when you first notice a rip but the grease is still in there and the joint is quiet. Yours are making noise so the joints are shot and need to be replaced. Just go with the Blauparts kit and you'll be set.

 

fumoazul, as you know, you and I are on the same boat, after researching I ended up buying everything I needed off of Blau and learning a lot... I'm doing the procedure this weekend, I am going to replace one full CV joint and change the outer boots in the other three axles. Once I’m done I’ll post back with procedures or hints & tips.

Here's everything I've learned, many of you may already know this, but I hope there's still some confused B5ers who I can help by sharing this (This info pertains to a 99.5 1.8T Quattro, I think it may be a bit different for other models/drives)

[[DISCLAIMER: This is info as far as I know if someone knows better and can correct me then please do, I don't want to be nor do I want to misinform anyone]]

The CV Joint is that cylindrical metal piece.
The CV Joint boot is the cylindrical accordion-like rubber piece.
These two pieces plus related hardware (Wheel Hub bolt, washers, clamps, grease, etc) make up a CV "REBUILD" Kit.
The Rubber boot + Hardware make up a CV "BOOT" Kit.

Both kits serve different purposes depending on what you need, more on this later.

There's a total of 8 CV joints (that cylindrical looking metal piece), 4 outer (where the driveaxles meet each wheel hub) and 4 inner (2 where the front driveaxles meet the transmission and 2 where the rear driveaxles meet the rear differential) Those rubber boots serve the dual purpose of protecting the actual CV joint and holding all the grease that the CV joint swims in. The purpose of the CV (Constant Velocity) Joint is to allow the transmit of power from the tranny/differential through the variety of angles that one particular wheel may travel through (up & down as you go through bumps, and left to right as you turn the wheels, only at the front axles, of course).

The CV Joints themselves are not that prone to wear and tear, it is the boots that are the problem. Being exposed to ALL the elements, the rubber can eventually wear out and start to crack and as it worsens it will tear completely, letting all the grease come out of them and exposing the CVJ itself to loads of friction and contact with the elements. Obviously this is not good and if it stays this way for a while the CVJ will be permanently damaged and require replacement. Usually, it is at this stage that you start hearing knocks and clunks come out of them.
So, obviously, it is GREAT preventive maintenance to have a couple of CV Boot kits stocked. All you gotta do is check the boots on a constant basis (perhaps with every oil change) and when one shows signs of wear, replace it. ($15 vs $100 you really can’t complain). The outer boots are much more prone to wear than the inners, in fact, you rarely will ever need to replace an inner CV joint/boot, but it doesn’t hurt to look every now and then.
Based on what I’ve read on your posts, I’m pretty confident in saying you have to replace the whole CV Joint + boot. I would go with BLAU, I’ve always gotten the very best from them.
Hope all this helps.
Cheers!

 

So i got the cv joint's fixed... cost me 150 bucks... now im puzzled in tryin to find out what is wrong with my brake light on the drivers side? bulbs are fine but it wont light up when the breaks are pressed?
any1 come across this?

 

I'm not sure if the wire layouts are identical side to side but if they are, swap the bulb trees side to side and see how it works. If the layouts are identical, then that'll allow you to see if it is a problem with the tree and/or bulb, or if it's the wiring (wiring is doubtful). Also, you can swap the passenger side brake bulb into the driver side and see if it works (vice versa with the "bad" bulb too). Also, get electrical contact cleaner and clean the contacts in the tree. Sand any corrosion you see. And if there are tabs, bend them a little in such a way that they contact the bulb more firmly. One of these is likely to fix it.