What causes rear brake pads to wear unevenly?
Hey guys,
I started getting a squealing noise out of the right rear on Friday, and so when I got home from work I removed the tire and looked at what could be the problem. The pad on the outside still has about 4mm left on it, so I put the wheel back on and decided to think about it some more.
Anyway, I drove the car for another 25-30 miles like this. I decided to investigate a little further today. Since I didn't inspect the inside brake pad on Friday, I took the calipers off today to do so. Lo and behold, there was no pad left on the inside pad, and that squealing noise was metal against metal.
My question, what would cause the inside and outside rear pads to wear so unevenly?
Second, do you guys think 25 miles rubbing metal to metal would be enough damage to the rotor to justify replacing the rotors, too? They actually look fine on the outside.
Many thanks for your advice!
I started getting a squealing noise out of the right rear on Friday, and so when I got home from work I removed the tire and looked at what could be the problem. The pad on the outside still has about 4mm left on it, so I put the wheel back on and decided to think about it some more.
Anyway, I drove the car for another 25-30 miles like this. I decided to investigate a little further today. Since I didn't inspect the inside brake pad on Friday, I took the calipers off today to do so. Lo and behold, there was no pad left on the inside pad, and that squealing noise was metal against metal.

My question, what would cause the inside and outside rear pads to wear so unevenly?
Second, do you guys think 25 miles rubbing metal to metal would be enough damage to the rotor to justify replacing the rotors, too? They actually look fine on the outside.
Many thanks for your advice!
In case anyone ever has this same problem, I discovered the answer last night while installing new rotors and pads on the rear.
The symptom was one pad had ground down to metal, while the other 3 pads in the rear all had about 5-6mm of pad left.
The problem turned out to be that the nut on the lower part of the caliper carrier had rusted frozen, and that had caused the caliper to be misaligned on the rotor. I discovered this after putting a new rotor and pads on and when I tightened down the slider pins, the bottom side of the caliper grabbed onto the rotor, preventing it from moving freely.
I was able to free up the nut using PB Blaster and a lot of elbow grease, but even with that loosened up a bit, the rotor doesn't move freely like the other side does. So, I've got a new carrier on the way from ECS.
The symptom was one pad had ground down to metal, while the other 3 pads in the rear all had about 5-6mm of pad left.
The problem turned out to be that the nut on the lower part of the caliper carrier had rusted frozen, and that had caused the caliper to be misaligned on the rotor. I discovered this after putting a new rotor and pads on and when I tightened down the slider pins, the bottom side of the caliper grabbed onto the rotor, preventing it from moving freely.
I was able to free up the nut using PB Blaster and a lot of elbow grease, but even with that loosened up a bit, the rotor doesn't move freely like the other side does. So, I've got a new carrier on the way from ECS.
Ahhh, life is good again. The new caliper carrier completely solved the rubbing issue on the right rear rotor.
Now, on to fixing the wiper blade transmission before my wipers completely seize up!
Now, on to fixing the wiper blade transmission before my wipers completely seize up!
perhaps, but that would be some serious use of t/c. respectfully. i dont see that too often at the dealership. usually its frozen piston's, slides arent sliding properly thus keeping pressure on one side or some form of rust build up.
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