First off, I would stop using conventional oil if I were you. Especially at those temps. I'm surprised the oil didn't freeze up in your crankcase. Full synthetic oil has a much lower freeze point and also allows for lower oil temp. in the summer. I would use a full synthetic like a 0w-40 or 5w-40. That should keep you good all year round.

 

what do u mean by conventional oil?
what brands should I look for and in the winter is it better 0-40w or 5-40w?
sorry, its just that i recently purchased this car and im in the phase about learning its particularity..

 

Conventional oil is the same oil refined to make gas. Crude oil comes up the pump, gets refined into various weights of oil and refined further to the lovely explosive substance known as gasoline.

Synthetic oil is, as the name states, synthetic. It is fully man made and designed specifically for better lubrication, longer life and as A4 2000 said, lower freezing point/operational temp.

Synthetic may be more expensive, but it lasts longer and has much better cleaning power for keeping the internals free of gunk.

That said, I recommend using a synthetic blend for your next oil change or two and then moving to full synthetic after that. Your best bet is going to be Mobil1 0w-40, I have large extremes in my state similar to what you've listed and have run 0w-40 since I got the car a year and a half ago and have had absolutely no problems, even going close to 7k miles between changes.

 

Nice!
though i'm already using "full synthetic" according to the box that I purchased when I did the oil change (and filter)..

Thank u all for your quick replies, I'll make that change as-soon-as-possible plus another filter!
I saw on ECU tuning the genuine oil filter from audi/vw. Its price is at least 200% cheaper then what i'd find in my local store.. i'll order one up and once I get it, ill make the change..

 

Sorry, but 'synthetic' as sold on the store shelves is actually highly refined, and modified, Dino oil - with a few exceptions of course..

Mobil DID have a 'full synthetic' back in the '90s, but when Castrol started using that claim with Group III oils (hydro-cracked dino oil, not real synthetic) and called it 'Syntec', Mobil sued for false claims, and lost. The courts said that Group III oils were 'close enough' and thus could be sold as synthetic.

Whats funny is there are Castrol 'true believers' who claim Castrol was, and still is, a PAO oil (group IV, real synthetic) and claim Mobil was, and is, the poser selling Group III... Sorry bubs, it was the other way around.

Now, thats not to say Group III oils are bad, they're not. In fact, after the Mobil vs. Castrol suit, all the manufactures started to use Group III and heavily invested in R&D to improve it to the point where Group III performance is within that of Group IV PAO's - only cheaper. Also, the really 'good' ones are actually synthetic 'blends' to improve cold weather performance.


Here's a good page that explains alot: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

 

Gotcha. Good to know, thanks for the clarification on that

Now my own curiosity to you, mid: are you just outrageously educated in oils for the hell of it or are you some sort of organic chemist/chemical engineer of sorts?

 

Amsoil, best synthetic around.

 

Hell of it.. though I'm not close to being highly educated in it, just trying to be more informed.. Gotta have ammo to argue

 

Amsoil, German Castrol, Mobil 1 0w40, Pennzoil Platinum 5w40, Castrol Edge 0w40

 

so if i currently have royal purple oil can i change it to mobile 1 fully synthetic?