Won't start after tensioner removal
At this point I would think that your cylinders are flooded with gas causing there to be a false reading for the compression test because the ring's seal is being washed down. You need to pull the pugs, and let it air out for a while. Maybe even use an evac pump to get the gas out if its that bad. Make sure you always pull your fuel pump fuse while doing compression tests.
If none of what I just said is the case, then I'm afraid you bent your valves and you have a trip to the junkyard to shop for a new head in your near future.
Ok so Ive retimed this intake cam like 5 times in the last couple hours.. I got engine at TDC, exhaust cam mark lines up perfectly with arrow when the line on the cam gear is perfectly lined up with the mark on the valve cover. I realigned the intake cam and it was slightly to the right of the arrow. counted 16 links. Tightened caps 2 and 4 snug then 3 and 5 snug then 1 snug. Checked again mark on intake cam is still slightly to the right of the arrow counted 16 links again. Put everything back together and crank it over...still no compression.. But after i cranked it over the intake cam mark is now straight on with the arrow or maybe even a tiny bit to the left of the arrow...What could cause this to happen?? Im going to try aligning the intake cam so it is maybe another tooth over to the right so when I crank it it will be slightly to the right again. What would cause this to happen?? Also I left the spark plugs out for a few hours and I have the fuel pump fuse pulled..
Don't move it a tooth, if you followed the procedure I explained before, then its right where it should be. When you bolt it down it will be tweeked a little bit however you put it in, once the car starts, and the exhaust cam starts to spin, that chain is going to adjust the intake cam to right where it wants it.
I'd let it dry out as long as you can and then either try the compression test again or just clean the plugs and pop them back in and just try to start the car.
You can always pour a small amount (ounce or so) of ATF in the spark plug holes to reseal the piston rings, then lay on the starter and let it crank for 20-30 seconds. That should take car of the sealing issue.
I'd let it dry out as long as you can and then either try the compression test again or just clean the plugs and pop them back in and just try to start the car.
You can always pour a small amount (ounce or so) of ATF in the spark plug holes to reseal the piston rings, then lay on the starter and let it crank for 20-30 seconds. That should take car of the sealing issue.
Don't move it a tooth, if you followed the procedure I explained before, then its right where it should be. When you bolt it down it will be tweeked a little bit however you put it in, once the car starts, and the exhaust cam starts to spin, that chain is going to adjust the intake cam to right where it wants it.
I'd let it dry out as long as you can and then either try the compression test again or just clean the plugs and pop them back in and just try to start the car.
You can always pour a small amount (ounce or so) of ATF in the spark plug holes to reseal the piston rings, then lay on the starter and let it crank for 20-30 seconds. That should take car of the sealing issue.
I'd let it dry out as long as you can and then either try the compression test again or just clean the plugs and pop them back in and just try to start the car.
You can always pour a small amount (ounce or so) of ATF in the spark plug holes to reseal the piston rings, then lay on the starter and let it crank for 20-30 seconds. That should take car of the sealing issue.
UPDATE: I tried putting some ATF in the spark plug holes and pulled the fuel pump fuse and cranked it with the throttle at 100%. It popped and backfired a couple of times but still no start.. The plugs were still soaked with gas after I tried cranking it so Im guessing there is still gas in the cylinders. I put a little more ATF in the wells and Im going to wait a day and see if all the gas gets out of there.. I have no other idea what to do.
Last edited by crazyquik22023; May 10, 2012 at 09:43 PM.
Well Ive re-timed the intake cam about 5 times since that picture was taken, and ive also stated numerous times in this thread I never removed the exhaust cam so that cam is timed correctly. In the picture the cams were not at TDC. The picture is to show how the intake cam is aligned with the exhaust cam. Neither cam is at TDC in that picture.
Ok Im currently letting the spark plug wells dry out over night to try and get the gas out. Well I have a feeling its still not going to start and the more I look at it still think my timing is off. I want you guys to take another look before I pull the head off. This is what the cams look like after cranking it about 10 times or so for about 3-5 seconds at a time. I feel like the intake cam should be another tooth over to the right.There are without a doubt 16 links in between the cams where they sit now..You should be able to count them from the pictures. But what do you guys think? Keep in mind the exhaust cam is a little off to the left too.. The cams are not perfectly at TDC but very close. Im just wondering do you guys think I should move the intake cam one more tooth over to the right or just try and start it how it is now after its not flooded anymore, and pull the head if it doesn't start?






Last edited by crazyquik22023; May 11, 2012 at 12:36 AM.
Tried starting it again this morning, hooked it up to a battery charger and now it pops and backfires numerous times when trying to crank it.. White smoke coming out of exhaust too. I guess its good its seeing some signs of life now but still no start.. Should I keep trying to just crank it for a while, or should I just give up and pull the head?


