Just replaced the alternator on 2003 A4. Unit failed due to corrosion,not what I would expect on a CA car. Anyway removed the bumper and found hoses for headlight sprayers were all loose. Looks like when the wiper sray was engaged high pressure water was spraying on the alternator. Replaced the factory clamps with regular hose clamps. Also noticed that radiator clamp seems to have been leaking also. Anyone else found this with their car?

 

Nope. On both my A6 and 2003 A4 3.0 I had to disconnect the headlight washers because they constantly leaked. I had to replace my A6 alternator at 75k -- thudded into a pot hole while exiting a fast food joint and my voltimeter immediately went to zero. Pretty clear the alternator failed (shorted out?). Anyway I replaced it with a rebuilt unit and it has run fine for the last 109k miles.

 

Thanks for the update ppgoal.
Will take a look at alternate hose clamps for the radiator also.

 

New tested battery, new alternator. Everything tested fine after but 20 miles later battery was so dead the starter would not turn engine over. Went ahead and replaced starter.

Then instead of yellow battery symbol I now get a red one. Tested and alternator is now reading 12v and regulator failed. Replaced both ground cables with no change

Red battery light is on and alterNatori is not chargong at idle, at faster rims the red light goes off. Then comes back on.

Possibilities l, one poster mentioned needing to clear computer to manage new battery (does anybody know of this is true) Option 2, the advanced u to alternator is junk, option 3, the positive cable.

I am about to reach for my sledge hammer.

 

Have you considered the serpentine belt and/or tensioner? Higher RPMs you would get less slip in the belt so light goes off? Just a shot in the dark but might be worth a look. I had a belt tensioner going bad and was getting bad charging, bad cooling, weird noises etc. Forced me to do an early timing belt as I was about due anyway. It can be done without a full timing belt service but just a very tight PITA space to work if just doing the tensioner.

Good luck!

 

I definitely checked serpentine belt and it has no signs of slip.

I may not be understanding this but after installing my new alternator I drove to autozone and the tested it, everything spec'ed out. Took it for a 25 mile drive and it drove like a champ... then I noticed signs of the battery dying, then the battery died as I limped home. The next day I charged the battery and drove it in to be tested. Parts store tested and said that the voltage regulator is dead.


Fortunately I did not return my core yet. I am reading my new alternator and it says 12v. My old alternator says 14v on the voltage regulator. Do I need a 14v alternator or am I fishing for hope and not understanding this?