Buying an Audi what to look for.
#1
Buying an Audi what to look for.
I'm more than likely buying this audi this weekend.
http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/ctd/2226375012.html
My questions are. What to look for when checking it out and test driving?
I already read the common problems and fix sticky post.
But is there anything else I should look at or pay attention to?
How high of millage do people have on their a4's around here?
What are service intervals like for front and rear diffs and transfer case, ect.
Is it actually awd or is it open diffs? lsd? what?
What are the suspension systems like? independent front and rear? solid axle?
Known cosmetic issues with the cars?
Any input is appreciated!
http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/ctd/2226375012.html
My questions are. What to look for when checking it out and test driving?
I already read the common problems and fix sticky post.
But is there anything else I should look at or pay attention to?
How high of millage do people have on their a4's around here?
What are service intervals like for front and rear diffs and transfer case, ect.
Is it actually awd or is it open diffs? lsd? what?
What are the suspension systems like? independent front and rear? solid axle?
Known cosmetic issues with the cars?
Any input is appreciated!
#2
Well, the big thing at that mileage is to be absolutely sure of whether the timing belt has been done yet. If it hasn't, you're going to need to do it right away, and it's going to cost you in the neighborhood of $1000, so use that as a price negotiation tool.
The other item to check on is that likely the car is either already on or about to need a new set of tires. Figure the stock ones last about the first 40K, then some previous owner probably replaced them with some that'll go another 40K, and now at 88K they've either been recently replaced or are due.
The only cosmetic thing I know about is that a lot of the switchgear in the cabin is prone to wear. My headlight switch, for example, looks really ugly. It still works fine, but there's a lot of area where the black is worn off of it, and I guess a lot of the other plastic switches and buttons tend to be the same way, so be aware of that.
As far as mileage goes, I bought mine with less miles on it, but it's up to almost 86K now and still seems fine, though I'm about to need new pads (and probably rotors) on my front brakes.
The other item to check on is that likely the car is either already on or about to need a new set of tires. Figure the stock ones last about the first 40K, then some previous owner probably replaced them with some that'll go another 40K, and now at 88K they've either been recently replaced or are due.
The only cosmetic thing I know about is that a lot of the switchgear in the cabin is prone to wear. My headlight switch, for example, looks really ugly. It still works fine, but there's a lot of area where the black is worn off of it, and I guess a lot of the other plastic switches and buttons tend to be the same way, so be aware of that.
As far as mileage goes, I bought mine with less miles on it, but it's up to almost 86K now and still seems fine, though I'm about to need new pads (and probably rotors) on my front brakes.
#4
As far as I know, there aren't really any warning signs that the belt is about to go that you'd notice while driving, but if it does go, it's pretty much catastrophic, because pistons smash into valves, resulting in massive damage to the pistons, valves, and heads. Basically, if it's got 88K miles and there isn't a record of it having been changed, you're safer to just do it. Realistically it should be done every 70-75K miles or so, but the factory maintenance schedule doesn't even say to start checking on it until 80K, so sometimes it gets ignored/forgotten.
What you can do, however, is actually look at it yourself. If you pop the hood, the cover for the belt is easily pulled back. It's held down by a pair of metal clips that you can unclip without tools. Just pull it back and look - if the belt is cracking, it definitely needs changing soon. If it looks new, well, obviously you're good. If it's not cracking but not obviously new, well, it's hard to say how many more miles you'll get out of it. That said, the first thing to do would be to ask if there's a record of the service having been done.
What you can do, however, is actually look at it yourself. If you pop the hood, the cover for the belt is easily pulled back. It's held down by a pair of metal clips that you can unclip without tools. Just pull it back and look - if the belt is cracking, it definitely needs changing soon. If it looks new, well, obviously you're good. If it's not cracking but not obviously new, well, it's hard to say how many more miles you'll get out of it. That said, the first thing to do would be to ask if there's a record of the service having been done.
Last edited by olstyn; 02-23-2011 at 04:33 AM.
#7
Forsure just makin sure the op knows not to just ask if timing belt has been done only. You know how some mechanics can be stupid like that. But yes definalty make sure its been done because if it hasnt things could end up bad down the road.
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