the first is, i am getting a code, usually every day the esp light will come on and when i check the code, its for open brake light switch--intermittent.

the second code i get, does not turn on MIL is for the hvac flap motor says blocked or no voltage.

my exhaust resonator hangers touch the drive shaft every now and then. i was thinking of bending the hanger, but this would change how the exhaust sits.

and lastly.

I have an 05 audi 1.8t apr exhaust apr stage 2+ catless, forge hybrid diverter valve. the issue i am having is when i am driving and i shift, there is a sound that comes out the exhaust that kinda sounds like it farted. it makes a "vrruh" noise during the shift and when the diverter valve opens.

i am thinking that the diverter valve is not opening quick enough causing pressure to be held for a bit while the throttle is closing? i do occasionally get the turbo surge noise but the noise out the exhaust happens either way whether i get the surge noise or not.

ive tried cleaning the valve and spraying teflon lubricant on it.( ive tried high temp grease before and this caused the diverter valve to stick open at times. so i use the teflon dry lubricant spray)

has anyone used the OEM DV on stage 1+ or 2+ without issues? i am thinking of switching back to stock

 

anyway i fixed my brake light open circuit issue. i took the brake light switch out and took it apart. i lightly sanded the metal contacts inside then sprayed everything with MAF sensor cleaner. then used lithium to re-grease the sliding parts. then adjusted the pin that contacts the brake pedal arm. after this no more esp light or codes.

still having the diverter/exhaust sound issue

 

anybody? the issue with the engine is getting worse. it feels like the power is either on or off. while accellerating it feels like it hits a rev limiter in some parts.. much like a misfire. still no codes yet... and when driving and go to change gears the rpm either hangs or increases when i let off the gas pedal and clutch is disengaged at this point.

to give an example: its like non DBW cars where the throttle cable sticks. when you remove load from the engine the rpm will go up.

 

I don't know much about APR tuned cars but it sounds like you have a backfire normally caused by an ignition coil or circuitry, wouldn't know if it's the diverter valve... Does the turbo sound normal? if you have a loss of power your turbo could be going, sounding like a whining vacuum...

 

i cannot tell if i have loss of power due to leak because if i get into boost say more than 10psi the clutch slips. however i figured out the issue with the over rev during a shift. i think its the clutch safety switch. so i ordered a new one and will post back next week