ECS is expensive!

 

As you wish:
http://www.genuinevwaudiparts.com/pa...mp;catalogid=2

 

Just go to AUDI for them. I know I tried ECS aswell before I went to them but they just charge an arm and a leg for shipping. You gotta realize too that when you buy stuff online they will tend to overcharge on shipping 99% of the time because whatever they overcharge for the "SHIPPING' they dont have to report on their business taxes.

But enough about that...

I bought some straight from AUDI for 2.29 each

 

It's not quite the cheapest option, but this is the route I'm probably going to go with my bellypan. Though, the zip ties currently holding it on aren't doing too bad.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

Exactly what I was going to reccomend. Dzus fasteners are a good investment. The price isnt that bad, and they hold well. Very fast useage when needed, also.

 

I used to sell those Dzus fasteners to Disney, nice commission!

 

I hated those screw in types turned left turned right not holding, half of the screws fell out at every oil change so I was concerned the belly would one day fall out as well. So take a look at the pics at what I did. Just went to my local hardware store, bought a half dozen 1/4 inch machine screws, matching nuts and washers and 1/4" wing-nuts. I attached 3 of the front bolts washers (you need 2 one on top and one on the bottom) and fastened tightly with the nut. These stay on permanently and do not need to be removed. Then I attached one each (bolt+nut+washers) in the front wheel well (there are predrilled holes there and they fit directly into the left and right sides of the belly pan liner). I also installed one in the middle hole (on the car) that aligns with the middle hole on the end of the belly pan (all these bolts are permanent and you only need to do this once). I could have done all three but didn't feel the need as these are so much more secure than those flimsy 1/4 turn plastic do hickeys). When you are all done, just align the front holes on the belly pan with the bolts, slide them in, do the same for the front right and left belly pan holes/bolts you just placed on the car then finally do the middle and and secure them all with spin on wing nuts. The next time you need to remove your belly pan, just spin the 6 wing nuts off and slide it off. No more worries. Hope this helps someone out there doing there own maintenance. Oil changes are real easy>>remove belly liner>>find oil drain plug>> remove and let oil fall into plastic oil pan>> once oil is drained replace oil plug (or put a new one just in case with crush washer)>>open hood>locate filter, remove by hand, replace with new filter (you don't need to remove anything as it is easily accessible by hand) just make sure the oil pan is moved underneath as oil will spill out when the oil filter is taken out>> replace with same new filter> tighten hand tight plus a 1/4>> fill will oil. Sorry was going to upload pics of the job but we have a 19.5kb per jpg limit (this is 2013 people hello?) dont think I could compress 3150KB in 19kb. If you want pics sent directly to you just ask.

 

Just in case someone is trying to locate:
I stock the quarter turn screws as well as the matching spring nut/washer.

Contact:

info@RegulatorFix.com

Or ebay:
Screws:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/201834715733

Screw and Nut:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/192114623107

 

Been having similar issues on D3 A8L, resorted to using industrial zip ties but if you need to take off to do oil change you have replace zip ties. I'm installing new swaybar brackets, fronts struts and tie rod bushings tomorrow. Ordered new hard plastic belly pan from UK too.

Hope you have the photos.
thx in advance.
QUOTE=rblues;1428584]I hated those screw in types turned left turned right not holding, half of the screws fell out at every oil change so I was concerned the belly would one day fall out as well. So take a look at the pics at what I did. Just went to my local hardware store, bought a half dozen 1/4 inch machine screws, matching nuts and washers and 1/4" wing-nuts. I attached 3 of the front bolts washers (you need 2 one on top and one on the bottom) and fastened tightly with the nut. These stay on permanently and do not need to be removed. Then I attached one each (bolt+nut+washers) in the front wheel well (there are predrilled holes there and they fit directly into the left and right sides of the belly pan liner). I also installed one in the middle hole (on the car) that aligns with the middle hole on the end of the belly pan (all these bolts are permanent and you only need to do this once). I could have done all three but didn't feel the need as these are so much more secure than those flimsy 1/4 turn plastic do hickeys). When you are all done, just align the front holes on the belly pan with the bolts, slide them in, do the same for the front right and left belly pan holes/bolts you just placed on the car then finally do the middle and and secure them all with spin on wing nuts. The next time you need to remove your belly pan, just spin the 6 wing nuts off and slide it off. No more worries. Hope this helps someone out there doing there own maintenance. Oil changes are real easy>>remove belly liner>>find oil drain plug>> remove and let oil fall into plastic oil pan>> once oil is drained replace oil plug (or put a new one just in case with crush washer)>>open hood>locate filter, remove by hand, replace with new filter (you don't need to remove anything as it is easily accessible by hand) just make sure the oil pan is moved underneath as oil will spill out when the oil filter is taken out>> replace with same new filter> tighten hand tight plus a 1/4>> fill will oil. Sorry was going to upload pics of the job but we have a 19.5kb per jpg limit (this is 2013 people hello?) dont think I could compress 3150KB in 19kb. If you want pics sent directly to you just ask.[/QUOTE]

 

You want me to send the photos of the quarter turn screw and 'nut'?

Quarter Turn Screw Belly Pan with 'speed nut'


Quarter Turn Speed Nut Belly Pan Auid

Quarter Turn Screw lower engine cover Audi