Something interesting that CVT owners should read
1st Gear
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1
transmission
Hello I'm new to the Audi sense I seen I had a good deal on getting me a Audi so I did but I started to read about the CVT problems and kinda nervous now.
I have no signs of transmission problems but the car is at 100,300 miles and I don't know or think the old owner did the transmission flush which I priced at $323.82 u.s dollars.
Is their away I can fix the CVT problem before it even start so I don't have to worry about the transmission problems because I do a lot of traveling. Also can someone help me get a better understanding of the gearbox and switching it from 6 to 7? U can email me or what ever devin.brown11301988@gmail.com thanks.
I have no signs of transmission problems but the car is at 100,300 miles and I don't know or think the old owner did the transmission flush which I priced at $323.82 u.s dollars.
Is their away I can fix the CVT problem before it even start so I don't have to worry about the transmission problems because I do a lot of traveling. Also can someone help me get a better understanding of the gearbox and switching it from 6 to 7? U can email me or what ever devin.brown11301988@gmail.com thanks.
1st Gear
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21
From: Nashville, TN
If you are not having problems now then all I would be concerned with is getting the fluid changed. You don't need a flush, just drain and refill. If the car has been and will be driven normally then you shouldn't have any issues with the internal parts of the transmission. As far as the TCM is concerned, that is just a matter of if or when it decides to go bad. There is nothing you can do about preventing it from happening.
1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 43
^^You can't just "drain and fill" or "flush" a CVT, there's only one way of doing it and it needs a special pump to suck the fluid out. There's also a filter inside but the transmission needs to be dismantled in order to get to it, frickin' WORST design of a transmission if you'd asked me. The best thing to do is to get the fluid replaced every 35,000-40,000 miles.
1st Gear
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 2
Wow what a lot of posts since my original post. Thanks so much to all for the input. Well I have played it safe and just part-ex'ed for a 2012 A6 3.0 TDI SE with 6k on the clock so no gearbox troubles for a long time (hopefully!)
Thanks again this is a great forum of Audi knowledge
Cheers
Jon
Thanks again this is a great forum of Audi knowledge
Cheers
Jon
1st Gear
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 23
Love this Thread, Audi you suck thanks to this cvt!
Anyone have experience with buying from these guys?:
TRANS SPECIALTIES | AUDI A4 REBUILT 01J TRANSMISSION
They have rebuild ones for $2,686
Or anyone with input from: European transmissions.com
Remanufactured audi transmissions
They have rebuilt one for $3250 with 900 or so core charge.
and last resource to share and wondering if anyone has been to:
Fixeuro.com
They claim to be among the few if not only ones that rebuild them successfully.
I do like they have a lot of pictures from all their clients CVT repairs, check it out!
FixEuro.com - European Transmission Specialists - Audi CVT (01J) Transmissions
Video also:
My experience is the Shudder and jerky take off once the transmission reaches normal operating temperature or mid line engine temp. Its a pain and very scary, as it engages very hard at times with lots of clunking. Car almost jumps like a horse. Stop and go is a pain, freeway driving is smooth. At times i run the heater and reduce my engine temp, reducing the CVT from acting up. Again its super smooth and no problems when cold in the morning. To me its like the fluid as it heats changes properties and pressure varies causing problems.
From my research, what im going through is worn forward clutches which expains audi's 7 clutch upgrade from 6. Its like the friction material is almost gone and slips. Or maybe i have poor valve body function also. Read the new CVT's have a self flushing SIV valve etc.
I love my car, its a sweet style and i get compliments even from current model owners. The B6 is a nice model and regret not getting the manual tranny. Thanks a lot Audi, my second and prob last audi regretfully. Still if i can buy a rebuilt CVT with the updates and if its a lasting repair i'll do it. I just fear this issue being more of a money pit down the road. More like a black hole!
Im definitely not happy with the CVT class action lawsuit. If your over 100K your out of luck for clearly a poorly designed transmission. I mean i love the principle and smoothness when its working, and it is a small number of parts when compared to standard automatics, but the fact that the clutch issue has been corrected with an update and yet audi claims no wrong doing is insulting. It is a hazard, my car hesitated while turning left and oncoming traffic almost got me. If anything the've always said its "lifetime" and never had fluid change intervals or ANY maintenance in the drivers manual...
TRANS SPECIALTIES | AUDI A4 REBUILT 01J TRANSMISSION
They have rebuild ones for $2,686
Or anyone with input from: European transmissions.com
Remanufactured audi transmissions
They have rebuilt one for $3250 with 900 or so core charge.
and last resource to share and wondering if anyone has been to:
Fixeuro.com
They claim to be among the few if not only ones that rebuild them successfully.
I do like they have a lot of pictures from all their clients CVT repairs, check it out!
FixEuro.com - European Transmission Specialists - Audi CVT (01J) Transmissions
Video also:
My experience is the Shudder and jerky take off once the transmission reaches normal operating temperature or mid line engine temp. Its a pain and very scary, as it engages very hard at times with lots of clunking. Car almost jumps like a horse. Stop and go is a pain, freeway driving is smooth. At times i run the heater and reduce my engine temp, reducing the CVT from acting up. Again its super smooth and no problems when cold in the morning. To me its like the fluid as it heats changes properties and pressure varies causing problems.
From my research, what im going through is worn forward clutches which expains audi's 7 clutch upgrade from 6. Its like the friction material is almost gone and slips. Or maybe i have poor valve body function also. Read the new CVT's have a self flushing SIV valve etc.
I love my car, its a sweet style and i get compliments even from current model owners. The B6 is a nice model and regret not getting the manual tranny. Thanks a lot Audi, my second and prob last audi regretfully. Still if i can buy a rebuilt CVT with the updates and if its a lasting repair i'll do it. I just fear this issue being more of a money pit down the road. More like a black hole!
Im definitely not happy with the CVT class action lawsuit. If your over 100K your out of luck for clearly a poorly designed transmission. I mean i love the principle and smoothness when its working, and it is a small number of parts when compared to standard automatics, but the fact that the clutch issue has been corrected with an update and yet audi claims no wrong doing is insulting. It is a hazard, my car hesitated while turning left and oncoming traffic almost got me. If anything the've always said its "lifetime" and never had fluid change intervals or ANY maintenance in the drivers manual...
1st Gear
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 2
how long have you had your Audi A4, i'm in the market for a german car between an BMW 330i and an Audi A4 ('04), could you please identify how your experience has been with the A4 and how you were able to identify it had a CVT transmission from just looking at the car's interior.
1st Gear
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 2
Audi a4b6 fwd 1.8T (cvt problem)
Audi registro
hello, i have an A4B6 FWD CVT, i currently have his same sympthoms, when cold, it stays PRND, then flashing PRND when "hot" or after changing between gears P, R, N, or D without moving the car. I cant move my car, it is currently totally slipping in D, And R.
It all started like this:
1. The gear shifting function on the wheel stopped working, sometimes only on one side of the wheel ( you can shift up and down using either left or right sides of the wheel ) sometimes after months it would work again out of nowhere. Then it just stopped working completely.
2.when i geared into Reverse, it would totally slip, and the car simply wouldnt move. I quickly realized that by changing to Neutral, the dashboard would show a "flashing gear selector" and then by shifting into reverse again the trans would push (slam) the gear in, but the gear selector in the dashboard would stay flashing and then if you change to drive and then kept driving with it flashing, after a while, the transm would simply enter into neutral forcing you to restart the car in order to get the transm reset into a "nom flashing" or normal mode, (without the flashing gear selector").
3. I kept on living and driving following this method for months. Keeping in mind that i had heard that i should change the trans oil. One day, the transmission just disconected itself from the car while driving! , i had stomped on the gas and seconds from moving from 0 kmph to 45kmph it just went dead, the motor stopped , the dashboard showed "abs - brake " problem, and i luckily could start the car again and pull over to a side.
After that i just couldnt move the car, wouldnt move in D, nor in R.
4. I did multiple computer scans and trans oil change for my CVT.
Ive got some error codes, and what ive seen in the transm category is the following: Vag no. 01J 927 156 Et
Component: V30 01J 1.815Vt RdW 30
Fault codes:
2 faults found: 18265 - load signal: error message from ECU
P1857 -35-10 ----intermittent
17090- shareware version To Decode all DTCs
P0706-35-10- please register/activate - intermittent
The car did move for like a block and a half after the oil change, then it gear slipped, we stopped the car, and then it all returned to not moving mode.
I suspect there is a problem between
the TCU and the ECU.
Looking for lights into this.. Thanks
hello, i have an A4B6 FWD CVT, i currently have his same sympthoms, when cold, it stays PRND, then flashing PRND when "hot" or after changing between gears P, R, N, or D without moving the car. I cant move my car, it is currently totally slipping in D, And R.
It all started like this:
1. The gear shifting function on the wheel stopped working, sometimes only on one side of the wheel ( you can shift up and down using either left or right sides of the wheel ) sometimes after months it would work again out of nowhere. Then it just stopped working completely.
2.when i geared into Reverse, it would totally slip, and the car simply wouldnt move. I quickly realized that by changing to Neutral, the dashboard would show a "flashing gear selector" and then by shifting into reverse again the trans would push (slam) the gear in, but the gear selector in the dashboard would stay flashing and then if you change to drive and then kept driving with it flashing, after a while, the transm would simply enter into neutral forcing you to restart the car in order to get the transm reset into a "nom flashing" or normal mode, (without the flashing gear selector").
3. I kept on living and driving following this method for months. Keeping in mind that i had heard that i should change the trans oil. One day, the transmission just disconected itself from the car while driving! , i had stomped on the gas and seconds from moving from 0 kmph to 45kmph it just went dead, the motor stopped , the dashboard showed "abs - brake " problem, and i luckily could start the car again and pull over to a side.
After that i just couldnt move the car, wouldnt move in D, nor in R.
4. I did multiple computer scans and trans oil change for my CVT.
Ive got some error codes, and what ive seen in the transm category is the following: Vag no. 01J 927 156 Et
Component: V30 01J 1.815Vt RdW 30
Fault codes:
2 faults found: 18265 - load signal: error message from ECU
P1857 -35-10 ----intermittent
17090- shareware version To Decode all DTCs
P0706-35-10- please register/activate - intermittent
The car did move for like a block and a half after the oil change, then it gear slipped, we stopped the car, and then it all returned to not moving mode.
I suspect there is a problem between
the TCU and the ECU.
Looking for lights into this.. Thanks
1st Gear
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 2
Audi registro
hello, i have an A4B6 FWD CVT, i currently have his same sympthoms, when cold, it stays PRND, then flashing PRND when "hot" or after changing between gears P, R, N, or D without moving the car. I cant move my car, it is currently totally slipping in D, And R.
It all started like this:
1. The gear shifting function on the wheel stopped working, sometimes only on one side of the wheel ( you can shift up and down using either left or right sides of the wheel ) sometimes after months it would work again out of nowhere. Then it just stopped working completely.
2.when i geared into Reverse, it would totally slip, and the car simply wouldnt move. I quickly realized that by changing to Neutral, the dashboard would show a "flashing gear selector" and then by shifting into reverse again the trans would push (slam) the gear in, but the gear selector in the dashboard would stay flashing and then if you change to drive and then kept driving with it flashing, after a while, the transm would simply enter into neutral forcing you to restart the car in order to get the transm reset into a "nom flashing" or normal mode, (without the flashing gear selector").
3. I kept on living and driving following this method for months. Keeping in mind that i had heard that i should change the trans oil. One day, the transmission just disconected itself from the car while driving! , i had stomped on the gas and seconds from moving from 0 kmph to 45kmph it just went dead, the motor stopped , the dashboard showed "abs - brake " problem, and i luckily could start the car again and pull over to a side.
After that i just couldnt move the car, wouldnt move in D, nor in R.
4. I did multiple computer scans and trans oil change for my CVT.
Ive got some error codes, and what ive seen in the transm category is the following: Vag no. 01J 927 156 Et
Component: V30 01J 1.815Vt RdW 30
Fault codes:
2 faults found: 18265 - load signal: error message from ECU
P1857 -35-10 ----intermittent
17090- shareware version To Decode all DTCs
P0706-35-10- please register/activate - intermittent
The car did move for like a block and a half after the oil change, then it gear slipped, we stopped the car, and then it all returned to not moving mode.
I suspect there is a problem between
the TCU and the ECU since when my transmission worked it didnt give any problem, it just slipped in R, and then it just apparently disconnected itself from the car. Thanks
hello, i have an A4B6 FWD CVT, i currently have his same sympthoms, when cold, it stays PRND, then flashing PRND when "hot" or after changing between gears P, R, N, or D without moving the car. I cant move my car, it is currently totally slipping in D, And R.
It all started like this:
1. The gear shifting function on the wheel stopped working, sometimes only on one side of the wheel ( you can shift up and down using either left or right sides of the wheel ) sometimes after months it would work again out of nowhere. Then it just stopped working completely.
2.when i geared into Reverse, it would totally slip, and the car simply wouldnt move. I quickly realized that by changing to Neutral, the dashboard would show a "flashing gear selector" and then by shifting into reverse again the trans would push (slam) the gear in, but the gear selector in the dashboard would stay flashing and then if you change to drive and then kept driving with it flashing, after a while, the transm would simply enter into neutral forcing you to restart the car in order to get the transm reset into a "nom flashing" or normal mode, (without the flashing gear selector").
3. I kept on living and driving following this method for months. Keeping in mind that i had heard that i should change the trans oil. One day, the transmission just disconected itself from the car while driving! , i had stomped on the gas and seconds from moving from 0 kmph to 45kmph it just went dead, the motor stopped , the dashboard showed "abs - brake " problem, and i luckily could start the car again and pull over to a side.
After that i just couldnt move the car, wouldnt move in D, nor in R.
4. I did multiple computer scans and trans oil change for my CVT.
Ive got some error codes, and what ive seen in the transm category is the following: Vag no. 01J 927 156 Et
Component: V30 01J 1.815Vt RdW 30
Fault codes:
2 faults found: 18265 - load signal: error message from ECU
P1857 -35-10 ----intermittent
17090- shareware version To Decode all DTCs
P0706-35-10- please register/activate - intermittent
The car did move for like a block and a half after the oil change, then it gear slipped, we stopped the car, and then it all returned to not moving mode.
I suspect there is a problem between
the TCU and the ECU since when my transmission worked it didnt give any problem, it just slipped in R, and then it just apparently disconnected itself from the car. Thanks