I have a 2.0T FSI with 45K miles and the check engine light came on about a week ago. I thought it was from a loose gas cap (was in NJ) but it didn't go away. My local mechanic checked the computer and it read that the turbo was underpowered. The turbo had felt underpowered since the light came on but I thought it was just in 'limp' mode. Anyway, he turned off the light and the care still is underpowered. External inspection of the engine showed nothing.

Is there a lag between turning off the CEL and the car snapping out of limp mode? Any ideas what could lead to an underpowered turbo? I read about checking for boost leaks, is there any other advice I can give my mechanic?

I'd hate to bring it to the dealer since I never feel that I can trust them (the care is out of warranty). Anyone know any good Audi mechanics in Philadelphia?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

I had the same issue with that CEL. In my case it was a rubber gasket around one of the valves in the turbo. I wish I had more information but my repair records are not with me.

My car is under warranty so I normally take it to the dealer for warranty work and to a small shop, Ridge Auto in Ambler, for other work. They are not an Audi specialist or anything, but for tires, brakes, etc I trust them. So far they have not done much to the car because of the warranty but they seem like a good group. I hope this helps.

 

Which dealer do you use? I used Willow Grove until Wynnewood opened closer to home. Since Wynnewood is so new I don't know if they are experienced enough - even though they are Don Rosen.

I'm assuming you had the dealer fix it since it was under warranty. Did they give you an estimate or just cover it?

 

dv cracked?

 

Audi of Willow Grove did this service. My invoice states "Fault P0299 Turbo charger underboost. Found hole in diaphram of Turbo. Replace valve and reset readiness." DV valve sounds correct.

I normally use Audi of Willow Grove because of their location. I did use the dealer on Ridge in Conshohocken and found them to be less sleazy and more friendly. In terms of quality of work I don't have an issue with either.

 

I second the DV. Checking out the part is an easy job if you have a hex bit set. I'd recommend looking up how to's on this forum and audizine.com to determine how to check it. If you find that to be the problem then a new part should be ordered - 06H 145 710 D.

 

Wow. Thanks for the excellent information. I'll check it out and post if I have any answers.

 

It was the DV. Replaced with the "D" version and running just fine.
Wark's Liberty around the corner fixed it for a good price. Thanks for all your help.