My stickey up top covers all this.

All you need is a stage 2 tune and testpipe. Under $100 on Ebay. No Downpipe needed if you go this route. Much Cheaper.

The GIAC tune as stated in my stickey will NOT fix the engine light. I would go with APR, REVO or Unitronic if any of them have a dealer near you. Gains will be about the same from all 3.

Fuel milage will vary by the lead in your foot. In theory it will get better milage but I could never keep my foot soft.

Stage 2 and Stage 2+ is a big difference in power, but for cost reasons you may just want stage 2 to start with.

Enjoy.

 

hey bro, that's what i'm here for. as for fit, check with the manufacturer. no, the pipes all bolt up. tell the mechanic to be careful with the nuts and studs and to re-use them for the install. those things are meant for the extreme high temperatures. my mechanic was so good the bolts don't even have a damn scratch on them. be sure to get the gasket set from the place you get the tube from.

honestly, if i could go back in time i would have gotten the RAI catless downpipe. it's a direct bolt on, just like the test pipe.

on another note, when i used to be heavily involved in modifying engines and drivetrains for performance, one of the best bolt ons were ceramic coated long tube headers. the downpipe is somewhat like the long tube header, which made for more power than other types of headers. but i don't see any more people doing the ceramic coating anymore. why's that?

 

You definitely don't want to weld anything. if it doesn't come off or go in, you heat it and bang on it with a rubber hammer or use wood blocks or something that won't damage it, until it loosens/fits. If you weld it, it will rust at the weld point if not welded properly and most mechanics won't weld it properly (yes, even if it is stainless steel).

 

They actually bolt up very easy as well. The trick is to drive the car first and get it warm / hot. It will expand the metal so it will lossen up. Wear gloves and a long sleeve shirt for burn protecton. It can be done on a set of drive up ramps to save money.

That expensive downpipe will not net you much power as the main restriction is mostly in the cat.

 

Thanks fellas

Good to know there are people on these forums who give up their time to help a fellow Audi owner out !


So for recommendations,

1) ill get the downpipe with the High flow cat or no Cat ? Wont removing the Cat give me loud cabin noise ?

2) The downpipe kits are bolt on --> tell mechanic to use same bolts/nuts to simply add-on/bolt-on the new downpipe.

3) Will go APR due to CEL

Now i have a further question regarding the HPFP:

1) Although I will get the APR HPFP, I'm sh*t scared of it failing, and consequently getting a new motor ! I will be using this vehicle for a very long time, so my question is, are there any reported cases of this happening say over long period of time, say 50-100k miles of driving ?

2) Fuel mileage: Iv been reading that once the HPFP is installed, some forum member actually had better fuel mileage, how can this be true, wont getting the HPFP deliver more fuel, hence more fuel being used ?


Finally, Overall will the fuel mileage increase or decrease, assuming i drive "normally", seeing as this car gets used 7 days a week in urban driving+using 98RON petrol, will i get better mileage ?


Thanks Fellas, appreciate your help greatly !

 

Seems you are coving the same questions over and over here.

1. You don't need the DP. Just a test pipe. It's only like 80 bucks on Ebay. If you keep the stock exhaust it will not be lous at all. You may even be dissapointed it is so quiet.
2. Use the stock nuts. Unless it happens to come with new ones.

As far as the Fuel pump goes, you have to play to pay. If you are going to be super paranoid just do a stage 2 and leave the pump stock. You will be pushing your engine pretty hard and maybe you should just play it safe.

As covered before, fuel ecomomy will improve if you keep a soft foot. The larger fuel pump will work like stock unless you need the extra fuel by hot rodding.

 

Thanks champ, covered all my questions

 

Hi Guys

I just ordered this downpipe: RAI 2.0 TFSI 3" Downpipe for Tiptronic

However, I drive a RHD version of the car, will it still fit ( upon research, i know it wont fit B8's but since the 2.0T b7 are transverse engines, are they ok ?

Emailed these guys, but they never replied

P.S. they have a toll-free number on their site, could someone quickly confirm so i can cancel my order !!

Thanks

 

Im just curious why you spent so much when an $80 test pipe would have been fine?

 

are we talking about same gains or smaller ??

The only reason i went with the downpipe was a) more KWasps b) less cabin noise (dont want a ricer)