As a loyal German car enthusiast, owner of 3 BMW's and a Porsche, I have always wanted a little A4 for a daily driver. Soooo... I just picked up this super clean and low miles '08 2.0T S-line yesterday, $8300, exactly 60k on it, runs great, 1 owner, clean Carfax, no recalls, though not much service history on it, so I will be doing the known things on her shortly. Thinking about putting lowering springs, any suggestions? Eibach have always been good to me, any other ideas?

 

Lowering it would be good. I am a window tint fan and think it would look great on your car. Lower those rear seat headrests. Having them up like that just makes them get in the way when looking out your rearview mirror. At 60k some will tell you the timing belt will need to be done in the next 15k miles. My 2008 said 115k for the change. I did mine at 105k.

From looking at is I am guessing you have the S-Line appearance, but not the "true" s-line package. In 2008 all A4s received the badging and front ends of the s-lines. True s-lines have the suspension (you can tell this by the stance and the color of the shocks/struts), door sill plates, wheels, and a three spoke steering wheel.

 

Lol... Yeah, rear headrests already been put down, and I have a set of H & R springs on order, ECS had them on sale yesterday, $171.55 +ship. Window tint has already been scheduled for Sat. too! My book says to change the timing belt at 115k, I will probably do it at 100, diverter and cam follower first.

I ran the PR code on it; (standard suspension), so S-Line appearance package only.

PRCode: 0G7 = Tiptronic
PRCode: 0JK = Weight category front axle weight range 10
PRCode: 0YK = Weight range 10 installation control only no requirement forecast
PRCode: 1BA = Standard suspension/shock absorption
PRCode: 1KW = Disc brakes rear
PRCode: 1LA = Disc brakes front
PRCode: 1N3 = Speed-related variable steering assist (Servotronic)
PRCode: 1SA = Without additional engine guard
PRCode: 2K8 = Reinforced bumpers
PRCode: 2ZS = Leather trimmed multi-function steering wheel with Tiptronic
PRCode: 3FE = Electric slide/tilt sunroof with sun screen/sunblind
PRCode: 3NZ = Rear seat bench unsplit backrest split folding
PRCode: 3PB = Left seat with electric seat adjustment right seat manually height-adjustable
PRCode: 3Y0 = Without roll-up sun screen
PRCode: 4GP = Windshield in heat-insulating glass withsunshield and viewing window for vehicleidentification number
PRCode: 4K8 = Radio remote controlled central locking operated from inside front and rear and separate trunk release SZV
PRCode: 4KC = Side and rear windows in heat-insulatingglass
PRCode: 4R4 = Power windows with comfort operation andcircuit breaker
PRCode: 4UB = Air bag for NAR
PRCode: 4X3 = Side air bag front with curtain air bag
PRCode: 5D2 = Carrier frequency 315 MHz
PRCode: 5RW = Right exterior mirror: convex (US) large viewing field
PRCode: 5SG = Left exterior mirror: flat
PRCode: 5TE = Decorative aluminum inserts
PRCode: 6XD = Exterior mirrors: electrically adjustable/heated
PRCode: 7A0 = Without CD changer/CD player
PRCode: 7GB = Emission standard ULEV 2
PRCode: 7K7 = Tire pressure control frequency 433 MHzbasic level version
PRCode: 7Q0 = Without navigation device
PRCode: 7X0 = Without park distance control
PRCode: 8BJ = Halogen headlight for driving on the right US design
PRCode: 8GR = Alternator 150 A
PRCode: 8Z6 = Hot country
PRCode: 9Q2 = Multi-function display/on-board computerwith check control
PRCode: C7R = Alloy wheels 7.5J x 17
PRCode: D2L = 4-cyl. gasoline engine 2.0 l/147 kW 16Vturbo FSI homogeneous Base engine is T59/T61/TQ2/TU2/TD6/TN6
PRCode: F0A = No special purpose vehicle standard equipment
PRCode: J0R = Battery 380 A (80 Ah)
PRCode: Q1A = Standard front seats
PRCode: T61 = 4-cylinder gasoline engine 2.0 L unit 06D.1
PRCode: U1B = Instrument insert with mph speedometer clock tachometer and trip odometer
PRCode: X9A = National sales program USA

 

The book is wrong. Both my independent shop (who I trust) and the dealership told me Audi updated it to 75k. rhodes and I have disagreed on this before, so I'm sure he'll be along shortly to tell me why I'm wrong , but I did mine at around 80k. Might be ok to push it, but I wasn't going to risk it. You do what feels good, but you might want to at least call your Audi dealership to ask what interval Audi is currently recommending for it.

Also, I think by 2008 they had phased out the diaphragm DV so you should have the new one which won't fail. I wouldn't bother fixing that one preemptively since it's just an underboost and no risk of any damage if it fails. You can safely drive it while waiting for the part. Do get on that cam follower, though. At least inspect it, but if you're going to disassemble it that far, you might as well replace it since it's only about $60.

 

I seem to remember reading something about the '08 having a D-code diverter but wasn't sure. Cam on order. I will clarify with the dealer SA about the timing belt.

 

I had to change the diverter on my 2008 as it was the old one. I waited until it threw a code. Was pretty easy to do.

Don't worry, King not going to tell you that you are wrong I will disagree with you though.

2008 are suppose to have updated cam followers, but I would check it (and as King said) replace it.

 

Is there a way to check the diverter without removing it? Is the part # conspicuous?

 

Doubt it. From what I remember, it was just a tiny raised plastic print of the same color as the plastic and it's really cramped in there. Don't stress over it. If it dies, it dies and then you replace it.

 

Assuming I have a Rev H, (or anything other than a D), if it tears or starts to go bad, will it throw a code? Or only if it completely fails will it OBD?

 

I believe it's the earlier ones you have to worry about. I don't remember what rev updated it to a piston version, but typical symptom is low boost (you might not notice) and eventually it will throw P0299 - Underboost (especially if you get on it hard). I was able to reset mine with a hand scanner and drive gently without flipping the code back on, but as soon as I got on it, it tripped again. You could see a 1/2" or so gash in the diaphragm once I got it out (well, I didn't personally replace it, but you get the idea).