I'm not too concerned about the cover being off it. In fact, it may stay like that. I did however buy some 1/2" rubber washers and put them in between my license plate and the plate mounting surface. Nice and snug with no rattling now.

I still think my idle is rough. I'm going to run it with the MAF off at idle and see if its an issue with that or not. The fouling on the plugs has me concerned, and I think I'm going to have a real carb cleaning done rather than the BG service.

 

Good idea. For some reason, Audi went with some crazy short holes for those screws. I had this problem as well when I got my car and ended up ordering some specialty short screws from ECSTuning (I had to get some other stuff too at the time). Don't know why they do that.

Mine has always idled rather rough (feels/sounds like a diesel). Everyone seems to say that's normal. I rather like the engine cover--keeps it nice and clean under there, so I would see if you can't find the missing rubber stop if it were me.

 

The problem is, I think there is something else going on. When my foot is on the brake at a stop, there is a knocking noise that I don't like. It started when a local garage flushed the brakes. And I HATE it. Also, I ran the car with out the MAF plugged in, and it ran smoother. So I ordered a new MAF as well. Next weekend I'll pull it back into the garage and do some wrenching....

I can deal with the rough idle, really, I can. But when it is rough enough that you hear it loudly in your cabin, there has to be an issue....

 

Yeah, I wouldn't say I hear it loudly in my car. So, you must have something else going on. I guess if it runs well with the MAF off, maybe fixing that will help. Good luck!

 

Changed the MAF yesterday. Not sure if it helped the idle or not, quite honestly. Something is still rattling/knocking like crazy at a stop with the brakes on. Only with the brakes on though. As soon as I let off the brakes, it stops. Gah, I hate it. Also, i get an intermitant high piched whistling sound that drives me up a friggen wall as well. It occurs while at cruising speeds (no boost). I have no idea what that is, but I hate it.

I'm looking at motor mounts next.

 

I found the rattle! The rear bumper cover stays that connect to the rear bumper underneath are loose. Gonna fix that this weekend. However, now the brake warning light is on. Damn it.

 

OMFG, I just typed out a long *** response to this thread, and it got deleted trying to post it. FML. Let's try this AGAIN.

New year, new problems. Started up the car last week and the ESP light stayed on, as did the brakes, and the car wouldn't shift out of first when in (D), but would in Tiptronic manual. All of these items happened all at once, like a perfect storm of WTF.

After doing some searching and reaching out on the 'zine, I got the following possibilities:

MAF
Brake Switch

So I ordered a bunch of stuff from europaparts and waited for them to come in.

First, I replaced the MAF. Took the whole airbox apart, vacuumed it out, replaced the airfilter (I was running a K&N drop in, which will be cleaned and put aside for the rest of the winter). I know I just replaced the MAF not too long ago, but my gas mileage has gone down about 70miles per tank of the last month or two, so I figured it needed to go anyway. I replaced the whole housing unit with a complete unit from Hitachi, and will save the other unit to clean up and put aside for future use. While I was in there I used the opportunity to switch out the pollen filter.

Started the car up, and he ESP light was still on. Shut it down and moved on to the brake switch.

Using the DIY found here I replaced the brake switch. Easy 10 minute fix for cheap money (the switch itself was $10.95). Put it all together, reset the ECU, and everything worked again.

Yay me!

I also bought a set of 034 Street Density motor mounts, and will get those changed out in the near term. The motor seems to give an awful shake at start up, as well as some bumps, as well as some random shaking during braking.

 

Update:

Had timing belt (@92,500 miles) replaced last Friday at DTM Autowerks in Milford, NH. They charged me less than $800 including parts/labor/fluids. I'm pretty friggen happy about that.

They also switched out my motor mounts. Chris (DTM) said they were definitely pretty mushy and the 034 mounts that I got are definitely going to be a bit different. I can feel the difference right away, the engine no longer feels like it's going to pop out of the engine bay while sitting at a light. Also, way less vibration.

They did an oil change as well.

At the next oil change I have them do, they are going to put in the B5 lowering cups for the front suspension.

 

I have sold my car. I listed it on craigslist last Thursday at 1pm, and it was sold that day for my asking price ($9500) by 6pm. It gets delivered to the owner today. I'm pretty sad, but oh well.

 

All the best to you. You posted some good reference material in the (relatively) short time you were an Audi owner.

If you don't mind my asking, what are you replacing it with?