Yea I posted on it yesterday I was it right after I posted here lol!

 

Awesome thread. Joy to read!

 

Well thank you Crisp.

Took the car out Saturday for a pre-suspension refurb blast. Need to get it on the hoist and rip into before the season gets too far ahead of me.

 

And so it begins, pre-season refurb. Just a few items to take care of before spring gets going (even more):

*Detail
*heat stuck on
*Ps fluid-replace
*Relay head lights & Main beams
*Ignition rotor arm
*Perished breather hose
*Check timing
*Radio reception
*Radio replace
*Upper strut mounts front & rear
*Rear brake lines
*Replace coolant
*Replce ball joints
*Lower control arm bushings
*Dampers
*Timing belt cover reinstall
*Washer aim/function
*Aim lights-adjusters
*Gear box play, mounts?
*Wipers slow
*Cold starting
*exhaust leak
*oil Leaks

Perhaps I should have gotten started sooner.

394182_2017220606684_1728951275_1002539_776272649_ n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


First task, finish putting an original radio in. I found some old style speaker connectors on eBay and spliced them into the aftermarket speaker wires, Works too even with the tape adapter playing from my Iphone but only 80s music comes out. Rear speakers appear to be blown. No bass but front work fine.

535988_2017390170923_1728951275_1002577_1870749776 _n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

Next I turned my attention to rebuilding the suspension. Soaked all the fasteners with PB Blaster. Started by removing the front anti-roll bar.

398942_2017496013569_1728951275_1002593_2127909079 _n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


Maybe I didn't allow enough time for the PB Blaster to work as I broke one of the end links. Where can I get a new one?

548580_2017497893616_1728951275_1002594_1332508664 _n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

I felt this was enough progress for the first evening especially as I am now fully committed to replacing the suspension components rather than driving the car round in its compromised condition. More to follow..........

 

Slammed it:

556337_2019791670959_1728951275_1003337_575718595_ n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


Everything in the front suspension is loose and ready to come off:

536721_2019796911090_1728951275_1003349_313672515_ n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


Except this:

561826_2019794351026_1728951275_1003343_135789751_ n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

Non of my pullers or presses could get a purchase on it. I tried heat and hammers to no avail. Need more tools.

 

Something from this box should work

525853_2022384615781_1728951275_1004273_24903482_n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


Like this perhaps

545662_2022385615806_1728951275_1004274_1652053372 _n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


BINGO!

538244_2022386655832_1728951275_1004275_448465878_ n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


All gone

292506_2022387895863_1728951275_1004276_1514658709 _n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


Now I have to tear this apart.

523642_2022390055917_1728951275_1004279_930588752_ n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


The parts haul so far

560426_2022389095893_1728951275_1004277_1555238133 _n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


I also discovered that my right side engine mount is collapsed so that will have to be replaced too. And, my right side hub is very loose in int housing. Is that normal or should I be doing wheel bearings too?

 

More unbolting today.

I was advised to remove the tie rod ends so I could free up the adjusters as I will need an alignment when I'm done.

380729_2024886078316_1728951275_1005700_1487601036 _n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


So I did, then sprayed it with PB Blaster.

533165_2024887158343_1728951275_1005701_1366471932 _n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

This is where it bolts to the rack. Interesting arrangement.

532857_2024888798384_1728951275_1005704_594131927_ n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


I took a gearbox mount off to change it but it looked new so I bolted it back on and crossed it off my list.

557256_2024891878461_1728951275_1005705_2139682584 _n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


Have an exhaust leak from here. Had to cut the bolts with a hacksaw blade. Going to need a new donut.

548215_2024894958538_1728951275_1005707_871728640_ n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


Drained the coolant and flushed the system.

537457_2024897278596_1728951275_1005708_807313309_ n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


Removed the heater valve as I have constant heat. Seems to close though. I think I will replace it anyway.

532074_2024900358673_1728951275_1005709_372433885_ n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


Monday I shop for parts and do my taxes.

 

The front bar link is p/n 857-407-469-B but discontinued from Audi. That p/n might help you find one elsewhere though. The upper link bushing is 857-407-473-A for 5.31 ea, 2 needed. The lower rubber bushing is 857-407-474 for 5.31 ea, 2 needed. All 4 of these bushings are 3 days away to order in. The top and bottom nuts are N-011-184-9 for .44 each, in stock. The 2 inner front bar bushings from bar to chassis are 811-411-327-B for 7.19 each and 3 days away to order in. The only problem with these bushings is they fit late 85 URQ's from vin 85-F-900981 which would be a fairly late model year 85 car. If your car is before that vin the bushings are discontinued from Audi. No sizes were listed in Etka for me to help you with trying to figure out if the bar diameter is the only difference or not.

The exhaust donut from pipe to front of cat is 857-253-137 for 18.44, bolts N01034510 for 1.06 ea, nuts N90085001 for .45, and all items 3 working days away to order in.

The heater valve I show is p/n 171-819-809-E for 28.34 and 3 days away. I did show another p/n for a heater valve 811-819-809 but that one is discontinued and my system doesn't tell me if it's a vin split or exactly why or what the difference is. Best to see if you can get a p/n off your old heater valve.

Nice car, I'm glad to help out where I can. Thanks, Jeff.

 

Where do I find the UR quattro Blue strut mounts in the US? Can/should I use 034 Motorsport versions?



and wheel bearings? 75mm or 82mm?

How do I make sure my engine mounts are shot? The right one is such a PITA that I really don't want to replace it unless I have too.

 

Disassembled both front struts today. Wasn't too hard.

554182_2029894723529_1728951275_1007824_816717859_ n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


The only problem is the free Bilsteins I have aren't going to fit. They are off a later model. So, I need some inserts. Koni or Bilstein. Can't seem to find them in stock anywhere. Anyone have any sitting around?

Need quite a few parts before I can put this thing back together. namely:

Blue upper mounts
Dampers, Koni preferred
Front 86-2086 sport 2-6 weeks
Rear 86-2087 sport in stock at Koni
Front Strut bellows
End link
Wheel bearings
heater valve
coolant G12 or regular green stuff?
Exhaust donut