I thought I nailed the timing. How can you tell it is off?

 

I was going to replace the rear brake line yesterday then this happened.






So I said F-it and went to the track instead. I did come back later and straightened my spool of exotic Audi brake line.




Need to make it look like this somehow:










I guess i'm going to need some new tools; and a new tool box.

 

Looks like you got the cam dead on. The timing mark on the back of the cam gear should be level with the surface of the valve cover gasket on the head as you should. However, the crank is off a tooth. The "0" should be halfway covered by the tab at the bell housing. Also the timing mark on the front of the crank should be lined up with the flat area at the top edge of the tab on the oil pump housing.

http://s3.amazonaws.com/2cp-images/q...0177/large.JPG

I hope the pictures show up..

Double check it and make sure.

Cheers,
Dave

 

Thanks Dave. I'll check it again. I read that the marks on the pulley can be unreliable due to it "moving" over time!

 

I don't know how the front mark would "move" but the "0" on the crank can not move. Only half of the "0" should be showing from behind the flat edge of the tab on the flywheel. Kind of like --0--. The mark on the flywheel is the only mark that does not lie.

I'm still drooling over that car though... LOL

 

Heavily invested in brake line tools now. Worked though. I just need some more brake projects to justify the investment.




I started at the master cylinder end and taped the new line to the old line as I went. The flare went well but I couldn't get the first bend as close to the fitting as the factory but it looks OE enough in my opinion.




I'm glad I replaced the rear brake line as it fell apart after it saw it's replacement and cried tears of brake fluid.




To my surprise it actually fir very well. I mean, it should right considering it was virtually a copy of the original. Things like this generally do not go this well for me though. I had to replace a few clips with new unfortunately.




Me bleedin' bleed nipples are bleedin' rusted to buggery in the rear and as I replaced the rear brake line I now have to bleed the buggers! #URQuattroFun






Later; I need a break from brakes. Next up: Transmission linkage stabilizer which is NLA, of course and then the hydraulic system.

 

Time to address the shift link stabilizer. Number 35 in this diagram. The plastic sockets on the ends wear and it is NLA (No Longer Available).




Mines a little loose so let's build a new one.








Now it's NPA (NO Problem Anymore)

 

Dude. Where did you find those ends..? I replaced the little plastic cups in mine a few years ago so they should last a while. I don't remember where I found them but that little shaft is a bitch to get back on the pivots with it in the car.. Nice work..

 

McMaster-Carr. I just googled something like UR Quattro shifter stabilizer and the fix magically appeared.

 

Decided to take out the steering rack, hydraulic pump, accumalator and reservoir en masse. Seems as if every bit of it is leaking.


Steering rack










At brake master cylinder




Et voila!




Now what?