Hello. i thought this would be a good place to ask for help...

I have a 1987 5000 cd turbo that for quite a while it has not been starting in the mornings or if the engine has been off for a a while. what i have to do is try starting it for a few seconds and then try starting it again. it can take anywhere from 3-10 starting attemps and then after it finnally starts it idles at about 600-900 prm until it warms up a bit (depending on temperate outside). then it goes down to a 500rpm idle thats is all choppy and unstable. but while driving its perfectly fine.

its weird because it seems that if i hold the gas pedal down before i try to start it each time for about 30 seconds it seems to start easier. also. when the engine gets past 100 degrees celsius then its tries to stall when im stopping, like a at a red lights or somthing. but i just give it a little bit of gas right before i actually stop and then it stays at its regular uneven idle.

-It doesnt matter what the temperate outside is, it still doesnt start.
-it seems the fuel pump is working because it works fine at higher speeds.
-i beleive all the fluids are full.

if anyone has any idea of what could be wrong it would be great. or if you need to know anything else about the car.

Thanks alot.

 

check the sensors like MAF, throtleposition, etc.... just clean what you can.

 

what is MAF? and what do u mean by throttle position? sorry i dont know this. and where would these sensors be? and i tried somthing last night. i plugged in the car and in the morning and it seems that the block heater helped. because it started first try.

 

Sounds like a diesel, forget about MAF! You either need new glow plugs, winter grade fuel or you have water in the fuel.

 

just to be sure, mcozea do you have a diesel or gassoline engine?
if diesel try to add a 5-10% of regular gassoline and see if it helps. I heard that diesel drivers add gassoline into diesel to decrease the ignition point of diesel. They said that engine starts easier and when the engine becomes old and has lower compression its becomes mandetory just to run the engine staible. they said they add as much as 25-50% of gassoline, I dont think its safe.
just a thought, think about it.

 

no its gas. hmmm. it still has the problem. where is the throttle switch located on this car? anyone know?

 

ones, I was filling foolishness on my VW passat, the idle control thinny. it coused in the morning to idle at extrimly high like 1500 then when it heat up it idled at extrimly low as 500RPM.
the throttle switch located on the throttle. and check the MAF first by connecting a digital voltmeter to the map it self and checking voltes they should rise at somewhat constant rate as you increase the RPM. also do you have any check engine light on when you drive?
also I believe you have injector and not carburator.

 

Hmmmm.... 5000CD + block heater, could've fooled me! If I am not mistaken US models didn’t have a CD version. CD... as in Canadian?

Hard starts could be many things but first check that your engine temperature sensor is working and the connector is not corroded, next check for vacuum leaks. I heard that turbo’s are more prone due to both pressure and vacuum. A defective differential pressure regulator is another thing to check.

 

so i just went out and did a fault test for my first time... it came out reading code 2142 (Blink Fault Code), VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number 00524 Knock sensor #1 Open or short circuit, Defective sensor Check sensor and wiring Symptom: Timing retarded, High fuel consumption, power loss, Boost pressure not attained

hmm. anyone know what a aknock sensor #1 is or what timing retarted means and why i cant get my boost above 1.1 bar. the highest it goes with normal driving is .9 bar. but today i got it to 1.1 bar at the highest at like 5000rpm. any ideas on why there isnt enough boost pressure? and would that be the reason for loss of power?

 

also... i just read this..


The 1986-88 5000T/Q with the single knock sensor MC designated engine with 7:8 to 1 compression, were designed to run 1.42 bar boost (absolute) as maintained by the MAC11 Engine Control Unit (ECU).
The MAC11 uses these boost values:
RPM 1000 2000 3000 4000 5000 5500 6000 6375
Boost map value 1.04 1.35 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.42 1.4 1.4

so does this mean i should have a 1.04 boost value when at 1000 rpm???? because its more like 0.3 at 1000rpm and 0.9-1.1 at 4000-5000rpm. would a vaccuum leak cause this? and would a vaccuum leak cause the engine to not start in the morning?