HELP! 5000S Quattro wont turn off
nice site for you to look through
http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?im...l%3Den%26lr%3D
http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?im...l%3Den%26lr%3D
I don't know which relay it would be on the 5K but look under the hood first. There is relay/fuse box. According to my 100 manual there is no ignition relay everything is done through the ignition switch but there is a load reduction relay #5 maybe that is the problem.
I have tested the load reduction relay by jumpering it and applying 12 volts from the batters (it clicks) and it seems to work. is there more relay locations than under the dash on the driverside and under the hood? maybee I am missing a relay pod somwhere.
I think that there are only two relays panels, the only other relay that my manual shows is the starter relay but I don't see how it could affect constant on problem. What has actually led to the problem in the first place? Is this something that just happened or is this something that you inherited? I may be wrong but I suspect that you might have a worst case scenario, a melted wiring harness.
the problem has been around for 3-4 months, rite after I got the car. The electric fan bearings siezed and the load from the fan burn the fan wireing. I got the car for free, and the story I got was he was driving home from work when the interior filled with smoke. he pulled over disconected the battery and the car sat (for 8 months). he didnt diagnose anything and just bought a new A6. He offered the car to me so i took it. I found the burnt wireing repaired it put in a new relay, twin electric fans from Summit Racing Hardwired to the factory harness and everything worked great. the car runs great, looks good, only one dent in the whole car in right front fender, good interior and all service's done on time or sooner with a timing belt water pump and rollers within 1000 miles of the fan issue. the only cosmetic things wrong with the car is a cracked dash and crazed clear coat on the roof that is peeling, ( I live in the desert and the car was bought new here). the car only has 130,000 miles on it. when it acted up the first time and up to now I would stall the car in 5th gear (manual Trans) and disconect the neg Battery terminal reconect and all would be good, up until now. now I canot get the car to turn off. if anybody has a good wireing diagram for this car (87 5000S Quattro) and could e-mail or give me a link to One I would appriciate it.
Thanks
Thanks
Now that you mentioned it, the problem is not in the ignition switch but wiring harness as I suspected, where exactly is going to take some serious troubleshooting. In any case check the fuse block. Audi has offered a kit to solve the problem of melting wiring harnesses and goes for about $10 it's a fuse block and a 80A fusible link. On 1991 and later it was factory installed. It looks like the previous owner never installed one.
I don’t have a 5000 manual but I think George (gmatov) has one you might want to send him a PM.
I don’t have a 5000 manual but I think George (gmatov) has one you might want to send him a PM.
OR,
You're right. Some wires must be fused. Current to the distributor is one thing, current to the fuel pump is another.
No way is it carbonized to the point that it will "diesel" for minutes or hours, most often "dieseling" rotates the engine in the opposite direction, ie, fires way before the piston hits TDC. Not overrun, which would be a short time effect.
Mike,
How do you get it to stop? Wait for it to run out of gas? Pull the coil wire, the center tower wire?
Cheers,
George
You're right. Some wires must be fused. Current to the distributor is one thing, current to the fuel pump is another.
No way is it carbonized to the point that it will "diesel" for minutes or hours, most often "dieseling" rotates the engine in the opposite direction, ie, fires way before the piston hits TDC. Not overrun, which would be a short time effect.
Mike,
How do you get it to stop? Wait for it to run out of gas? Pull the coil wire, the center tower wire?
Cheers,
George
to save going through all the wiring you could fit a switch between the fuel pump live, then just flick the
switch to disconnect its power you could also link the switch to the coil + to ensure it doesn't drain the battery when engine is off,
or just sort the wiring out
switch to disconnect its power you could also link the switch to the coil + to ensure it doesn't drain the battery when engine is off,
or just sort the wiring out
Avant80,
Do you know what the "Click here to upload" at the bottom of the reply message box does? Will that upload a jpeg as an attachment link as others do with pictures?
I was going to upload the relays picture, if it does.
Cheers,
George
Do you know what the "Click here to upload" at the bottom of the reply message box does? Will that upload a jpeg as an attachment link as others do with pictures?
I was going to upload the relays picture, if it does.
Cheers,
George
Mikeysentra,
On the 200/5000 in my manual, there is another relay block. I've scanned the page if you want it. Will reply to your previous message, and attach. 58 KB, readable JPEG.
Cheers,
George
On the 200/5000 in my manual, there is another relay block. I've scanned the page if you want it. Will reply to your previous message, and attach. 58 KB, readable JPEG.
Cheers,
George


