Thanks for the kind words SMITHWICKS440. As far as the scratches are concerned, to get an idea on how deep they are you can pick up a bottle of Meguiars ScratchX locally and see how that works on them. My next suggestion is going to be look into investing in a quality, paint safe buffer, such as the Porter Cable 7424 and the appropriate polishes to go along with it.

As for the Zymol on top of the Klasse, unfortunately this will not work. You were right in saying that the cleaning characteristics of the Zymol would strip off the hard work you just did with the Klasse, and to be honest, the Klasse is a far superior product as far as durability and looks. Consider a quality carnauba wax such as Poorboy's Natty's Blue or P21s Concours Carnauba to really enhance the depth and gloss the Klasse gives you.

Let us know wha tyou end up doing and how you make out.

George

 

I used Meguiar's Quik detailing wipes (for interior)on my car and everything is fine except for that they left spots on my piano black trim that look like water spots. What can I do to get them off?

 

It sounds like just excess product that dried up on your trim. Take a microfiber towel and some distilled or filtered water and see if that does the trick. Otherwise try a mild cleaner or dilute some Isopropyl Alcohol with water to remove any excess product. If that doesn't do the trick, let me know and I'll recommend another alternative to try.

George

 

Since the trim has the same or about the same clear coat as the paint, I just took a little wax to it and it took everything off. Thanks for the suggestions though!

 

George, I guess I have another question or two for you. [8D]
I was out polishing the car today and I noticed a very rough spot or two in the paint. Is this something a clay bar would remedy? I really don't know because I've never used one. Also, I have the black-out pacakge which makes the trim around the grille black. The trim was also rough, but I could actually seewhere the rough spots were when I was in the sun. Any tips?

Thanks!

 

I apologize for the delayed reply, I don't know how I missed the post.

If the paint is rough looking, that area was not properly finished, or it was repainted. Unless you resort to heavy compounding or wet sanding, chances are you won't be able to smooth that area out. If the paint looks smooth and is just rough to the touch, then a clay bar may help you remedy the roughness. From the way you described the problem, it sounds like the paint wasn't properly wet sanded / finished in those areas.

George

 

Does sealant replace a final wax? I've done some reading but don't know that much about detailing. I ask because I just bought a new Ultrasport and want to know how to correctly detail it.

After a wash, do I apply polish, sealant, and then wax? OR can I just apply polish and then a final wax OR sealant? Does a synthetic sealant replace a final wax? And is glaze really necessary?

 

Hey so I used to detail for Mercedes and Jaguar and Volvo dealerships but its been a while since I've done it so I'm a little out of it. I was just wondering where I could get products for cheap? I actually just got this milwaukee 3 speed buffer for free so I want to use that. It accepts 7 and 9 inch pads. Is there any site or kit that I can buy for this buffer? What I mean by that is several pads. (polishing, cutting, etc) and also a compound of each. I'm used to Meguiars Diamond cut and heavy cut and stuff like that. Is there anything or anywhere cheaper? Any feedback would be great. Just to get me started. Maybe you have a link from this forum... I've looked for a while already... Thanks!

Drew

 

Stearnsy - Sealants and waxes can be used together for maximum results in durability, looks and protection or independently of eachother. Sealants typically will last 3 - 6 months as far as durability and enhance the shine of the vehicle. Waxes tend to give off more depth and gloss but have much shorter durability. Expect 2 - 8 weeks of protection on average for a natural carnauba wax. Waxes tend to provide better protection for certain things, such as bird droppings and water spotting compared to sealants, but the durability is short lived.

To get the most out of both, apply a sealant as your base coat of protection and layer a wax on top for optimal looks and maximum protection. If you go this route, you want to allow your sealant to cure for 24 hours before applying the wax on top. This means apply and remove your sealant, wait 24 hours, then apply your wax the following day or next time you wash your vehicle.

Using a glaze is an optional step but I feel has it's place for enthusiasts, specifically if you are entering a car show or have a lighter colored vehicle that you are looking to make pop more. The purpose of the glaze is to use oils and kaolin clay to help fill in imperfections and add depth and gloss to the paints finish.

If you have any other questions on anything please do not hesitate to ask.

Drew - Check your buffer to see what type of backing plate it has, whether it's velcro or hook and loop, then do some research online and choose the best pads for your buffer. I prefer the Lake Country line of pads myself. If you are looking for products cheaper than Meguiars, I suggest looking into some bulk product lines like Ardex, Auto Magic, etc. We specialize in higher quality products and tools so I cannot give you much input here.

Personally, I think you are much better off performing higher quality details and charging a higher price if you are trying to get back into the service side of things. You'll make more money and your customers will be more satisfied with your work.

George

 

hey.. new to hear saw you guys and thought i would ask a ? what do you have to remove bugs. those things really hit hard at 100mph..hahah.. seriously though i have a white 06 a3 what do you guys have for me to keep it clean and do you have any packages (wash,wax etc.) thanks looking foward to your response.

brian