Great question - I tackle sap with a mix of 50/50 Water and Isopropyl Alcohol (found at a local drugstore)... if that doesn't do the trick, I usually mix in some Poorboy's Bio-APC (diluted 3:1) or another degreaser. I let the alcohol soak for 30 seconds to a minute and then proceed to pick at the top of the sap (not touching your paint with your nail). If you're lucky you'll remove a solid portion of the sap leaving you with just an outer ring, which can take some time and effort to completely remove.

I'll typically attack the ring with a clay bar first to remove as much contamination, then a light polish if needed. After doing these steps you will want to re-protect the area so you'll need to seal or wax the area you just worked on. Being that the sap has sat on the surface for 5 years, you may have some permanent damage underneath which should be addressed properly. Let me know if you need any help with that.

Hope this helps, good luck!

George

 

Wow, thanks alot for the feedback. You know your stuff and glad to see to see you share the information! I am about to order that stuff you have just mentioned to me now. I do not have enough spare cash to buy the Buffer.

Do you think i can do it by hand and get a good finish product?

Thanks again. Im ordering the products right now! I cant wait to do this job when the weather clears up!

 

George.... YOU ROCK!

You are corrected about the ice scraper. I now plan on purchasing the polishes you recommended.
As far as the light scratches go. Well, most are swallow, there is one nasty little gouge that will most likely need filling.

I had no idea there were more steps to detailing the exterior besides wash, dry, clay bar, and waxing!
I will definitely try the polishing methods, after carefully studying at Detail University!
It's so disheartening after putting all the effort into doing the best to can to clean your car and still having to look at hideous scratches!

Needless to say, it's great having you around!

 

Lopster99 - We greatly appreciate the support and feedback.

I think you will still achieve great results by hand, but keep in mind to truely break down the micro abrasive particles in the polish you need constant pressure and enough heat to break them down. It is a very tiresome process done by hand, but as long as your are ready, willing and abled you will get some great results and a sore arm! Keep us posted on how you make out, I'm excited to hear about your experience. Remember the prep work is the most important steps so spend the most time, washing, claying and polishing. The rest will fall into place once you have mastered those areas.

If you need any assistance along the way, I'm just an email, PM, or post away.

George

 

A little research and reading will get you pretty far with detailing. Detailing is an art form and you constantly learn to improve your process as you research and get more hands on experience. To this day I still am learning things, which is why I created Detail University around a school theme. Once you understand the detailing process and what is happening so with a little hard work and research, you'll probably be more knowledgable than your local "professional detailer". Knowing this information will help you choose the proper product to tackle the job. If you have any questions along the way I'd be more than happy to answer them for you.

Thank you once again for your praise.

George @ Detailed Image

 

George - thanks for the advice...[sm=smiley20.gif]


I guess my question oon the previous pg regarding the exterior trim of the S4 was for both instances...

I have a new Rs4 grill & Id like to keep it looking new & protect it..

I also have the window exterior trim which is in need of some rejuvenation.

Thanks again ...

 

I also had an RS4 front grill and I personally went with the new matte look of a water based dressing. I used 303 Aerospace Protectant, which is a great product because it is also the product I used to UV protect my dash, doors, consol and other plastic and vinyl areas of the vehicle. It also works great as an engine bay dressing and a no gloss new tire dressing. Very versatile product. Silicone based dressings that give off a higher gloss to them often will attract dust and other contamination making future cleaning of your grill a headache. I popped the grill right off when I applied the protectant and took a q-tip to the inner parts of the honeycomb looking grill.

Sorry to follow up with another question, but where specifically are you looking for help on your window trim? There are certain places that certain products shouldn't be used on, but others where it could be safe to use a dye like I mentioned before. For example, you wouldn't use the Leatherique Rubber Dye on your door seals, you would want to use the 303. Same with the window seals where the rubber hits the glass, you don't want to use a dye there either.

Hope this helps.

George

 

Hey George, I am waiting for my products to come in, i am so excited to see what my car will look like! I forgot to order the dispenser bottles[:@] Im annoyed, and i dont want to do another seperate transaction just for that so i will get some at a local store i hope!

I had a quick question, How do i get old wax off of rubber molding around the windows? I have quit a bit and i can't get it off for the life of me!

Also one more question if you don't mind, How do I get the cracks to dissapear or hide them on my leather seats. My driver seat isn't to bad but it does have some minor cracks that bother me. I was wondering if there is a product to "cover them up"

Thanks in advance, your a great help!
Dennis

 

Dennis - We greatly appreciate the support, I'm excited to hear about your results. As far as the dispenser bottles are concerned, try your local dollar store, a beauty supply store, or an arts and crafts store. One of those places should have something for you.

As far as the old wax is concerned, try a combination of water and isopropyl alcohol (also found locally at any drug store). This will properly prep the surface and often helps remove old wax buildup.

For the creases in your leather, try laying a damp wash cloth over the leather during a hot sunny day. This will help expand your leather and can minimize some crease marks. Aside from that, you'd want to make sure you properly condition your leather regularly. You can also look into www.leatherique.com for some kits they have to fix leather. I haven't personally used them other than the Rejuvenator Oil and Prestine Clean that I stock but I've heard good things.

Keep us posted on how you make out with your detail! If you have any questions on anything, let me know.

George

 

Hmmmm George

I think u just answered my ?'s w/ that 303 aerospace protectant...
use it on external trim (honeycomb grill / foglight housing etc) as well as the black
that surrounds the exterior of the windows - I think Ill be staying away from the dyes -
but will defnietly be picking up some of that 303 from u soon...

seems like great stuff - u can use it on the plastic engine covers too?