I setup a amp and 2-12" Subs in the trunk of my 2000 Audi A6 w/ Bose. I used the installation by RedGoat as a guide ( https://www.audiforums.com/m_318162/tm.htm if you aren't familiar ). The Amp is having issues getting the remote signal from the factory amp. I checked the connection from the stock amp and the remote wire I setup was not getting power. I disconnected the remote I tapped. Then tested my amp by using an ordinary switch. Connected one side with a wire to the amps power in, connected the other side to the amps remote in. When I flipped the switch on the amp was powered and worked fine. I used it like this for a while but am currently tired of manually turning the amp on and off everytime I go in and out the car. Using a tester I checked the factory amp wiring harness (unplugged) to see if I tapped the wrong remote wire to begin with (the white one). I tested the power (red/blue) and the power was coming steady with the car on or off. I tested the remote (white) and was getting a pulsing signal with the car turned on/off. I am currntly in the process of removing the trunk lining so I can test with the harness plugged in. Any help is truly appreciated. I'll check back and update as I test the harness when plugged into the factory amp.

 

I checked the factory amp wires w/ a tester while the harness was plugged in. The wire was still pulsing. I tried the same with the iginition turned on... the music stopped and the factory BOSE amp began clicking w/ the pulse. I took the tester off the wire and the music came back. Weird??? Any comments??

 

I have been told that the white remote wire at the bose amp harness is controlled by the headunit. I guess if thats true my issue gets deeper. I recently retrofitted a RNS-E Audi Navigation Plus Unit, and its remote is having an issue. Doesnt turn of on with the ignition, only by off button. I guess I'll tackle that one first. Any experienced with retrofitting that unit please help. You can refer to www.nsxjr.com/docs/RNS.pdf for they way I have installed. Only the unit no options.

 

Does this help at all?


WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Battery RED/WHITE (+) RADIO HARNESS
Accesory BLACK/BLUE (+) RADIO HARNESS
Ground BROWN (-) RADIO HARNESS
Illumination GRAY/BLUE (+) RADIO HARNESS
Power Antenna RED (+) RADIO HARNESS
Amp Turn On RED/BLUE (+) AT SUBWOOFER AMPLIFIER
LF Speaker (+) BLUE/WHITE
BLACK IS A COMMON GROUND WIRE. THESE WIRES ARE LOW LEVEL GOING INTO THE BOSE AMPLIFIER.
LF Speaker (-) BROWN/WHITE
RF Speaker (+) RED
BLACK IS A COMMON GROUND WIRE. THESE WIRES ARE LOW LEVEL GOING INTO THE BOSE AMPLIFIER.
RF Speaker (-) BROWN/RED
LR Speaker (+) BROWN/WHITE
BLACK IS A COMMON GROUND WIRE. THESE WIRES ARE LOW LEVEL GOING INTO THE BOSE AMPLIFIER.
LR Speaker (-) BLUE/WHITE
RR Speaker (+) BROWN/RED
BLACK IS A COMMON GROUND WIRE. THESE WIRES ARE LOW LEVEL GOING INTO THE BOSE AMPLIFIER.
RR Speaker (-) RED
Amp Location MOUNTED UNDER REAR DECK
Steering Cntrls OPTIONAL
Speed Cntrl YES
Radio Security YES

 

yeah, at this point everything helps. Thanks. At the amp only the red/blue wire is lighting the tester, and the white is still pulsing. I gotta get the headunit right before I worry about the amp and subs. Gonna look at the wiring harness and make sure everythings hook up to the correct spots.

 

I believe you are grounding out when this is happening. Dont hold me too it though.


Check out the web site that i posted www.the12volt.com/forum
If you register you can download vehicle specific info.

 

Thanks I will.

 

still having this problem, the remote (radio off/on) wire is pulsing and I am hearing a ticking sound from the factory amp when I am testing the wire with the ignition turned on. They only way I found to get around the problem was to use a switch and link on side with a wire to the amp remote in, and the other side of the switch to the power on the amp, which works fine only thing is when I get out, I must go into the trunk and turn the amp switch off... It wont turn off with the radio. Didnt use my car for a couple of days and it killed my battery, so I am once again in search of an answer. Any Ideas??

 

The only thing i can think of is you are using a speaker wire as the remote. The red with blue strip wire is the one you should be using. Once you get the amp working properly you will most likely need a "ground loop isolator" to get rid of the other noise you are hearing.

 

The red/blue is constant power... isn't it? When I tested that wire, it is powered when car is on or off.