Is this the hi/lo converter i need and all the wiring i need ?
http://cgi.ebay.com/QUANTUM-AUDIO-HI...d=p3286.c0.m14
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...142PA8&tp=2919

 

Well, sorry to catch you so late, but my opinion is:

on the box, sealed gives tight controlled bass, ported gives you boomier bass, but at the cost of sound quality (really, it still sounds good, otherwise noone would be using them). I have a slotted dual 12" enclosure in my trunk and could not be happier.

Make sure you have an amp that is either mono, or bridgable. And, since you are running one sub (I am guessing single voice coil, but I know nothing about alpines), make sure the amp can put out *more* than the maximum power handling of the sub at 4 ohm. If you have a dual voice coil, you can put it in 2 ohm, effectively doubling the power your amp can put out, but *ONLY* if it is 2-ohm stable. Most good amps are, but if its a 2 channel and it was cheap, I doubt it will be 2-ohm bridged stable. Bridging is running 2 channels to the same speaker. Usually you only have to run one wire, if the amp is half way decent.

Look around, I know the A4s that have the Smphony system have low-level outputs going to an amp in the trunk. If you have an amp in the stock setup anywhere, *you have low level outputs from the head unit*. I avoid using high level at all costs, so I don't know much about it. I know it effects sound quality, and not for the better.

If you have any other questions, let me know.

 

Also, I have heard the need for ground loop isolators, if you hook it up and hear a screeching sound, you need one. Those can be found anywhere.

For the high-to-low, I strongly advise making sure you need it (if you dont have a bose system, or an amplifier in your stock system, or your head unit doesnt have low-out), if so, that'll work.

And for the wiring, thats good. I'd up it to 4 gauge, but thats just me, leaving room for expandability. I would also add a 1.5 farad capacitor on to that. Anything over 250-300 watts, your headlights, interior/dash lights will dim, and it will drop the voltage on just about anything electrical when the bass hits. Trust me. Depending on how far you want to go, I'd get a better battery, either Exide or Interstate. You can get "car audio batteries" but they are a waste at a beginnner/intermediate sound system level. Also, the capacitor has the added effect of "jump starting" your car when your battery is low or if its cold. Saved me a hundred times over every winter in my Nissan truck, but then again I had a 5 farad capacitor hooked to about $2,500+ worth of audio/video gear... In Car PS2 was where it was at for the longest time, on a 10 inch drop-down screen right by the rearview. Hehe, I miss that truck...

 

explain the farads ? I searched online but when do you need each level of farad capacitor ?

 

Well, a farad is how much energy it can store. Think of a capacitor as a battery, that can completely discharge itsself in an instant. Think Lightning bolt when you think "instant".

Off the top of my head, I'm not sure how to explain a farad (its been a while since my electrical engineering classes lol), but I read (i think on Tsunami's site or crutchfield once they finally started selling them) that you want somewhere around a farad for every 400-500 watts. So for a 1000 watt amp, you would want at least a 2 farad capacitor. That said, I have a 1.2 Farad right now for my 400 watt amp, and it will be the same when I get an 1,100-1,200 watt amp. Basically, what it is there for, is when your bass hammers hard, your battery/alternator can only provide the electricity so fast, thats where the "lightning bolt" comes in, and gives it all it needs, then recharges when the bass lets up. It reduces strain on your electrical system by a massive amount, helps "jump start" (through my own experience) your car when its cold or low battery, and keeps your headlights and other things from dimming when the bass slams.

They are what makes the camera flash so bright, the battery charges them, and they discharge it all in an instant to the flash bulb. Without it, your camera wouldn't be able to flash, or it would pretty much power the camera down every flash. I think I read that you had a 750 watt amp (something close to that?) so I would get a 1.2-1.5 farad capacitor. Be careful of walmart wiring kits. I was in there buying DVDs the other day and, for a laugh, went down to see what they had for car audio. I found they had 750uF caps (.75 Farad capacitors) with their wiring kits.

Also, though it (very slightly) complicates things, you can run multiple capacitors (in parallel only!! + to + and - to -, like jumping a car with jumper cables, otherwise you double the voltage, and thats just about always bad... lol).

 

alright i'll take a look around.. how does this add into the wiring process? do i need another set of wires or do they splice in some where?

Also any mid-range brands to look into and what brands to stay away from.. there are brands here i have never heard of.

Also if you have any brands to stay away from and look into when choosing a hi/lo converter i'd appreciate that !

thanks

 

I found a bunch of capacitors on eBay but can you tell me is 1/2 farad worth getting or do i need at least 1 farad ?
thanks

 

Get the 1 farad, anything lower is pretty much useless and for the wireing the capacitor will go in line the the power cable...if you order one still in the packaging it will show you how to hook it it..its not hard at all.

 

Agreed. I got a good cap that was 1.5 farad for $60 (Nitro BMW branded, no relation, implied or otherwise, to BMW), but you could tell it was a cheapo made one. For my Audi, I spent $100 and got a 1.2 Farad Tsunami. I would easily recommend that, as its adequate, inexpensive, reliable, and safe.

http://www.caraudiohelp.com/car_audi...stallation.htm

Some wiring diagrams. Personally, I would say that you should go to the letter of what your cap says on its packaging. They are inherently dangerous devices. You can easily weld connections if shorted, EASILY, I have done it myself (oops), even with a partial charge (maybe 1/5th total charge) by brushing a screwdriver across the connections to complete the discharge. Almost set fire to my truck as sparks flew everywhere.

Beware, the cheaper capacitors will still hold as much of a charge, but they willbe of weaker build materials, such as the connection terminal screw snapping its head off after barely tightening it (maybe 1/4 lb of force applied), or the mounting brackets snapping. I strongly advice spending the extra $40 to get a Tsunami, that said, here is where I got my Nitro BMW (I use a Tsunami now):

http://www.electronixwarehouse.com/c...capacitors.htm

As I have never used a hi/lo converter, I couldn't help you. I couldn't even begin to explain how they work, so selecting one, for me atleast, would be difficult. I'd look for one that crutchfield carries, or ask your local brick&mortar what they think. Even if you just get the model number from crutchfield and go to ebay. You could do the same with the capacitor I suppose, I have nothing against buying wares on the bay

 

Alright.. I made it ! It looks pretty good too. The box was made pretty well except the carpeting was a little harder than expected. I got the spray can of adhesive and it did NOT work, so i tried caulking it down.. then resulted in pulling it tight and screwing it down ! ha
It has a 2" slant on the right side of the first picture (hard to see)
I know its no pro box, but it should be all i need.. i hope
here are some blackberry pics

and