can anyone tell me how to remove the convertable top motor from my 94 cabrio,the plastic reservoir cracked and leaked all the fluid out,and of course now the top does not work,i found the motor in the trunk,but i can't for the life of me figure out how to remove it.
THANK YOU

 

Just did this job recently. First, remove all the trunk trim, here's how. Take out the cover for the spare. Use a screwdriver and pry up on the plastic discs on the plastic trim piece located near the latch along the rear of the trunk. Once those are up, you can pull the large plastic disc out of the hole. These are a two part fastener. Put that and the trim piece aside. Looking straight ahead just below the trunk rim, you notice two small plastic discs. Put a screw driver under them and work them out untill you can get a needle nose plier under them and yank them out. They are those plastic non-threaded "screws" that just have a bunch of plastic flaps. You can reuse them. Now unscrew the two plastic covered screws along the right and left sides just below the trunk rim. Now take all the trunk trim out remembering to unfasten the clips on the trunk light. Remove the spare and the jack for working room. Next loosen the two bolts on the fuel tank straps that hold the fuel tank in place. Helps if the tank is not full. When it is loose enough, lift up on the fuel tank and put a small block of wood(1" thick is plenty) under the tank along the right side where it rests on the frame member. This is necessary because the pump will not come out if you don't. You can see the pump in the right rear fender area. Disconnect the electrical connections to it. At the rear of the pump in the body is a rubber plug. It may be painted and difficult to see at first. Pop it out with a screwdriver but don't rip it. Get a 13mm socket and maneuver it under the bumper until it fits in the hole and you can grip the nut. Loosten the nut. You don't need to remove it. This nut is a squeezed lock nut that will not just spin off. If you attack this nut from above and not through this hole you will round it off. (Lucky for me I didn't round it so badly that the socket would not fit!!) In the trunk is a an opening in the frame to access the three forward nuts securing the front of the assembly. Use a 13 mm box or open end wrench. You might be able to get a socket on them initially, but you won't be able to remove them with it. The ideal tool is the new ratcheting box wrench. These nuts are also squeezed lock nuts and will not spin off. It will take awhile to get them all off. You need a metric allen wrench (I can't remember the size) and remove the allen bolts securing the hydraulic line assembly to the pump. The lines will "pop" out when you pull on them. Maneuver this assembly out of the way. Now, pick up on the back of the pump and lift it out of the slot and work it up an out. Easier said than done as the front will hang up on the three studs you previously removed the lock nuts from. Once that is out it will be pretty obvious how to remove the pump motor and reservoir from the hydraulic assembly. Here's the really bad news. You can't get these parts from Audi. They only sell a "repair kit" that is the entire assembly you just removed for about $2800 bucks!! Yeah, you heard me, $2800. I tried every salvage yard I could find on the web and no one has the parts laying around 'cause its such a pain to remove them or they have already salvaged the profitable parts and crushed the vehicle. The manufacturer, Power-Packer, a USA company, won't sell you any parts because they are protecting their contract with Audi. That torqued me off, big time. I had to disassemble the motor and repair it myself, though you don't seem to have that problem. Should this not be enough info for you, I can fax you the Bentley's diagrams.