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Fuel Sender Unit Removal 1993 C4 Platform

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  #1  
Old 11-27-2005, 05:48 AM
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T90
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Default Fuel Sender Unit Removal 1993 C4 Platform

How do I access this piece? My fuel gauge has been acting up lately and I want to make sure the connection is tight and if need be change the sending unit itself. I read for some models of car that you could access it through the interior of the car, am I able to do that with my car, it is a 1993 100Q CS. I would like to get this little item fixed ASAP and any info would be great thanks.

Trev
 
  #2  
Old 11-27-2005, 05:58 AM
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Default RE: Fuel Sender Unit Removal 1993 C4 Platform

under the rear seat simple enough job

next post has better link, this is the reason for edit also my link was too long
 
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Old 11-27-2005, 11:59 AM
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Default RE: Fuel Sender Unit Removal 1993 C4 Platform

I did a write up on this:

https://www.audiforums.com/m_20295/tm.htm
 
  #4  
Old 11-27-2005, 10:54 PM
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Default RE: Fuel Sender Unit Removal 1993 C4 Platform

Thanks for the links guys. Although the fuel pump access hatch was in generally the same location as the ones in the write ups, it was quite a bit different to work with. There was 3 hoses on the top of the cap two were non pressure and one was high pressure, that was no problem, but then when I got the lock ring off and pulled the sender unit out thats when I noticed the biggest difference between the ones described and the one I was working on. Underneath the whit cap there are 2 hoses, one has a threaded fitting thats attached to a 90 degree elbow and the other hose is a simple clamp on. Well the threaded fitting you must hold the fitting nut with a 14mm wrench and the coupler with a 17 mm and tun the coupler, this is when all hell broke lose. The sending unit plastic armiture snapped in half, so now I am really cursing.

I did find the problem though, the copper wire that attaches to the float arm was almost completely dissintegrated. So after grabbing the silver solder and my torch I managed to install a new wire on the float arm and a new wire on the float level board. I still had the problem however of trying to fix the broken plasticv armature. The fix came to me easily enough though, just like setting a broken bone using plates and screws I was able to "set" the plastic and screw it all together using some stainless strapping that I happened to have at home here.

Next came the moment of truth, after putting everything back together again, I turned the ignition on, low and behold I had an accurate fuel level. Just to ensure it was working 100% I went and filled the tank and sure enough the gauge now reads full.

So for future reference I am going to add my Email address in case anyone else runs into a similar problem. Telkey@msn.com

Total time for the repair of the sender wires and to repair the arm = 1.25 hrs
 
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