i got the new cams seals installed i just need to get the crankshaft seal done to finish putting all the other parts back on

 

Yeah.. It's hiding in there an kind of hard to see. I had to use a couple of 12' extensions and u-joint adapter to get it out. I was able to reach in there with my hand to install and remove the locking pin though.

 

do you know what the torque is on the crankshaft bolt that's holds the timing belt gear 2002 2.7L

 

hi, friend
i think you should replace the water pump, if you think you can not do it by yourself, you can go to your local repair shop.
best wishes.

 

Specs say 200nm +180 degrees... That's 145ft/lbs plus 180. That additional 180 degrees is a bitch and I worry about sheering off the lock pin.. The same settings are for the 4.2 that I have.

Here are the others if you need them.

Toothed belt sprocket to camshaft 55 Nm
Idler wheel 45 Nm
Toothed belt tensioning roller 20 Nm
Pulley to crankshaft 20 Nm
Toothed belt tensioning element 10 Nm
Central bolt 1) to crankshaft 200 Nm + 180 ° 2)

 

I have seen spec's like that before so does that mean that the 145 ft lbs is the minimum? why don't they add the additional ft lbs that the 180 degrees creates , so should I attempt the 180 after 145 ft. lbs. I don't want to break the crank pin

 

I think it's a Torque to Yield bolt setting. I think works out to about 250-300ft lbs. I reused mine. This horseshit of using torque to yield bolts so you have to "replace" them every time is an effin' bean counters wet dream. When replacing the cam cap bolts in the 4.2 back last summer, I bought all new bolts. Went to torque them down using the TTY specs (5mn +90 degrees or something like that), two of the first four on the middle cap striped the threads out of the head.. FTS!! I helicoiled them and set all of the bastards at 15 or 20nm and left'em. No issues.