Yes. Scoring on the metal would mean grooves and such. Especially where the cams ride in the heads. The aluminum is softer and will sometimes score. The cams are very hard and it takes a bit more abuse for them to start wearing. If the plastic is off the cam adjuster pad, that would explain quite a bit. However, the lack of the other cam turning when you were turning the engine over concerns me. Now that you have the cams off and all of the valves on that side are closed, I'd get a leak down adapter and check to see if those cylinders will hold compressed air. LOCK the crank to prevent it from turning though. If any of them sound like they are letting air just blow by, they are not sealing and could be bent.

IF you have no bent valves and no evidence of oil starvation (I would go ahead and pull the cams and tensioner on the other side and inspect there. Blauparts.com sells a complete seal kit and tensioner pad kit that should be all you need. Plus, I'd go ahead an put a new water pump and timing belt on it since you're into it that far already.

 

So I ordered new tensioners and chains. The guy gave me service records. He was pretty good about maintainance. He had the timing belt and what not done pretty recently. Just didn't have the sense to not drive it with a busted pan. I'm pretty sure he was drunk. Any how. I did the timing on my 2.7 so I know to keep the crank and cams lined up. My question is about the cams at the tensioner. I see the marks and have looked a diagrams of how to set the timing. My question is should all of the the timing marks be lined up together. By that I mean, with the cam sprockets and crank locked will the timing marks on the cams all be lined up as well?

 

They should be. If you've done a 2.7, this one should be the same. I bought one of the cam lock bars and crank lock bolt from an eBay vendor a while back for under $75. It helps keep things aligned a lot easier and securely. The tools work on several different engines. As long as you lock everything down before removing the timing belt, you should be ok. There are a few videos on Youtube that show how to replace the chain tensioner pads on the heads. I recommend watching a couple of those to get a feel for what you'll be getting int. I've got to replace the pads on my 4.2 soon myself. The gasket on one of mine is leaking and I figured I might as well replace them while I had it apart.