What oil viscosity and what brand are you guys using on 2.7T engines? The owners manual says 0w30-5w30-or5w40, but has to meet acea a2 or acea a3 standards. I know to use the factory filters but am confused about what weight.

Thanks
Andy

 

This has been debated over and over here on AF and other sites.
Check the archives for the history of these debates.

The bottom line: You can't go wrong with 5-30.

The rest is up to opinion (other peoples experience with different grades).

Just make sure you use all synthetic oil - no blends.

 

I've argued with many people over this subject also. I have no input on it because I'm new to the Audi World.

Just wondering why you don't suggest blends?

Thanks

 

Blends do not meet ACEA A3 or A5. Oils that meet these standards are for extended use in high performance engines.

 

I see.

And all this time I thought it was the best of both worlds.

I just don't like using the full syn. because of the leak factor. I hate a messy engine.

 

What leak factor? There shouldn't be any leaking.

 

This is from what I heard, whether it be true or not.

If you switch to full syn. oil in a car that has never run it before, the syn. oil is so slick it will find all the weak spots in the gaskets and slip through them and leak. Even non weak gaskets are vulnerable. I also heard that older engines tend to burn more oil when switched to full syn. oil. How true all this is, I don't know.

What do you think?

 

When Mobil 1 came on the market in the late 1970's , it was available in 5W-30. Engines had loose tolerances and oil passed through the gaps. I used this oil in my GM X-car. I had to add a quart every 500 mi at $4 per quart.

Today I use Mobil 1 0W-40. I use 1/2 quart in 10K mi.

 

I was wondering about the 0-w40. I went on to Mobil 1's web page and looked up what oil they recommend for my car and it came back with 0-w40. It said that the manufacture recommended this weight. Thanks for the imput on this.


Andy

 

What you're referring to is kinda an old wives tale, from back in the early days of syn oils. The then *new* synthetic oils wern't very compatible with the rubber and plastics and some types of gasket materials. Switching from conventional to synthetic sometimes caused these materials that had been bathed (for years and years, in some cases) in the conventional oils, to shrink, or even pull away from the metal engine parts they were mated to. You can replicate this effect, if you wanna tear some shhhhhhhhhhhhhtuff up, by replacing your brake fluid with tranny oil. The rubber bits that are used to being coated in DOT3/4/5 will react adversely to the tranny oil.

Modern cars use newer, better materials now than they did a decade and a half ago when syns first came out. The have closer tolerances and are better put together, as well. I, personally, have switched to full syn oils in my last three cars. A '93 Opel Calibra Turbo, a '93 V6 Toyo Camry, and my latest, a '99 A8. In truth, I do not know what oils were being used in any of the three prior to my owning them, but I'd be willing to bet that the Calibra and the Camry were on a conventional oil diet. The Calibra because, in Germany, oil costs an arm and a leg, synthetic oil costs both arms and both legs. The Camry because it was a Camry. My point is that modern engines do not suffer the maladies that befell cars from the dark days of early syn oils.

To dispell the other myth, older engines, when not properly cared for, burn ANY kind of oil. If you're rollin something older than a decade old you may, in fact, be blowing money out your EGR. Syn would simply mean you'd be burning it more quickly.