The clutch/flywheel setup isn't bad. It doesn't slip, only takes slightly more force than the stock clutch, engages around the middle (instead of near the top like stock), and seems to hold up pretty well.

My wideband setup is rarely used now, actually. I place the sensor where the stock pre-cat narrowband sensor goes, with the Innovate heatsink bung extender. Then I have the gauge output an analog voltage to emulate narrowband sensor readings for the ECU to use.
This pre-cat location is not ideal since it's right after the turbo, and gets very hot... wideband sensors don't last long in this location. I'm on sensor #4, and typically get about 50-80 useable miles out of them before my wideband gauge starts freaking out with a sensor timing error ($56 each time, not really worth it).
This could also be a fault with my particular wideband gauge, but tech support from the manufacturer (Innovate Motorsports) thinks it's simply due to excessive heat. They're located close to me, so one of these days I might drop it off and have their techs look at it.

In any case I have a feeling my EGTs are quite high because my exhaust fumes are rather harsh (despite my high-flow cat). I drilled and tapped a 1/8" NPT hole on my exhaust manifold for an EGT probe but have yet to purchase a probe and measurement device.

Intercooler piping... I bought my intercooler setup in March 2011 before CX Racing released their kit. My kit was a Godspeed kit. Right now I'm using modified Godspeed piping for hot-side, and I came up with a better custom piping solution for cold-side (includes cold-side DV relocation). It was only maybe 5-6 months ago that I bought the CX Racing intercooler to replace the Godspeed intercooler (larger core). If I were to start over then I'd definitely pick up the whole CX Racing intercooler kit.

Higher flowing fuel pumps are a debatable issue. Some have said it's good for 250+whp, others have said 300+whp. I only upgraded because replacing my fuel pump was part of a diagnostic process (didn't change anything, but at least now I have a great fuel pump!).

Part of me likes doing the whole figure-out-what-works process, but it's very expensive. So if I can I'd like to help people in your position save as much money as possible!

 

Dang that wideband situation sucks! Wonder how I could do mine differently..? Putting the sensor after the cat would give it a bad read right?
And did you ever have the frankenturbo running the stock clutch? Trying to figure out if my stockie will hold till i save up ANOTHER 1k for a clutch after the turbo install..
So much to consider haha you have no idea how much you've helped me....

 

Yeah it sucks having my situation with the wideband. I talked to the tech about placing the sensor elsewhere, and if it's after the cat my readings would likely show lean except at WOT (not very useful IMO). If you're running a test pipe then it would definitely make sense to place the sensor closer to the secondary stock O2 sensor. But for me, my solution is to only use wideband occasionally when I want to do logging.

For a while I ran FrankenTurbo + GIAC PC-16 tuning + stock clutch. Had to reduce boost because the stock clutch (with 133k miles) would slip in 4th and 5th. So yes, your stock clutch will hold up, but only if you aren't trying to get much out of it.

 

Yeah, not too sure what my plan is now for a wideband. Anyways I'm happy to hear that my stock clutch should do for a while.

On other news, I replaced my oil cooler seal/gasket and I THINK I'm in luck! The "oil burning" smell that I used to get on WOT seems as if it's gone. However it seemed to be somewhat temperamental and it would sometimes make the smell and sometimes not. But anyways after a little bit of mashing to see if it is gone it hasn't made the slightest hint of a smell. I did a 25-80 pull on the highway at WOT the entire time, so I think I'm set.

Hopefully this is true, since it was the only thing that had me worried that something bigger was wrong and it had me stumped for the longest time. My compression is perfect and I had checked so many other things it was just frustrating.

Still craving BT powar!!!

 

Soooo... Since I really like the idea of having a wideband when I get a new turbo, I've come up with a plan. It's probably gonna cost a pretty penny, but what with Audis doesn't? My thought was to go to my local exhaust shop and have them custom fab an exhaust all the way turbo back. They said on the phone they can make me a test pipe/dp if I buy the flanges (I think 034 has them right?). And then I will add a magnaflow cat somewhere after my dp, right after the flex pipe maybe? That will then allow me to weld a bung in for my wideband reallllly far from my turbo and still being before the cat and still WA state legal!

So that's just what I came up with. Not sure if that will work or not but I only have a 2.5" exhaust at the moment with stock cat and dp and I was planning on going full 3" anyways with a HFC (the labree one so I could still pass emissions $330 ouchhhhh) so doing it this way would likely be cheaper anyways if I bought this:
and just had the shop custom do the rest? Sound like a good plan?


Ohhh and I'm not exactly sure why it says non carb compliant for that cat because the only comment is from some guy from WA with a 1g talon tsi awd that used it to pass emissions since he was catless. So if a 1g can pass I can too right? I'm not set on that cat tho.. Any cat w/ 3" in/out that WILL pass emissions is perfectly fine with me.

 

Good job on the oil cooler gasket! Always feels nice when maintenance-related things are fixed and the car is running normally.

034 should have the flanges you'll need. Seems like having the cat after the flex pipe may be a bit far from the turbo for the cat to reach maximum effectiveness due to reduce exhaust temperature at that point. But maybe it will work, I dunno!

The CARB compliant is a CA emissions thing... in CA you would fail the visual inspection with any component which is not "CARB Compliant". Doesn't mean you won't pass the sniffer test though (even in CA)

 

But lines (oil, depending on turbo: coolant). Is the boost control still stock (internal wastegate, DV, N75, etc.)?

That is an "interesting" argument that I have NOT heard yet to justify a slow spooling turbo.

How about this: "I installed a special custom turbo. It does not create any boost, so I am saving a ton of money if fuel, and my car is even SLOWER than stock so I save even more money in speeding tickets".

But yes: K04 vs. Frankturbo vs. elim vs. BT is a valid and very personal decision.

BT I have driven did not impress ME (the most recent one did have ZERO boost up to 4500 rpm); I have plenty of K04 or hybrids (3 on AEB with PC16) and love their useability as daily driver and readily available power. They all flow around 190 g/sec (the K04 i looged yesterday was 180 g/sec)

I use custom build hybrids. I paid around $650 (my core) from Turbo Concepts.

For my FUN CAR (non daily driver), AEB (exhaust valves, rods), I still need to find the right turbo and tune (400+ cHP), since I still do NOT accept "no power at 3k".

AEB and tune is another subject (not many around). Several times mentioned in this thread "this tune runs on pretty much everything".

If this is not just one opinion, I may switch to this tune (if it uses VR6 MAF).

 

K04's and turbos of this size spool almost instantly. Which is nice because torque is right there. BUT if you're cruising on the highway say at 70 mph any little blip of the gas and your full boost pretty much.

On a bigger turbo that doesnt spool until say 3800rpm while cruising at highway speeds will still be in vacuum. When you press the gas you might only build 1-3 psi.

I have a friend with a DSM with a 35R on his built 2.0L motor. The car gets way better gas mileage than my A4 with K03. Obviously that's a different story when your under full boost and you have 4 1000cc injectors blasting at 70-80% duty cycle.

We took his car from Cleveland to Columbus set the cruise at 75 and used only a little less than a 1/4 tank of gas. I was impressed.

Jason