Great thread! I learned a lot... you kept me up way to late with all this info. Work will drag tomorrow =P

 

It's the best way to stay up

BTW, my car isn't dead. Been working on stuff, mostly the little things. For example, my idle is acting weird lately, where it will (on its own) rev to 1200ish RPM, then after a little bit will drop down to the proper ~950 RPM. The whole time the engine status will be at idle (the other options are part throttle and I think full throttle). So I have a used throttle body coming which I will try out. Also, VAG-COM MAF readings are about 3 g/s while the engine idles at 950 RPM and ~4 g/s at 1200 RPM (the tune shouldn't allow the idle to do this...).

Also haven't been running wideband for the last 1000+ miles because the wideband sensors won't last. I bought Innovate Motorsports' heatsink bung extender thinking that maybe the O2 sensors were just getting too hot, but then I killed a wideband sensor in about 150 miles ($54 for that...). So I rewired the gauge, to the fuel pump relay for 12V and to the ground underneath the coolant tank. Also got a nifty A-pillar pod by Autometer that it will go into

Among other things, I'm now running a CX Racing 2.5x28x7.5 bar & plate intercooler (~30% increase in core volume over the last one!). Have 2 new Falken FK-452 tires in my garage. Have a set of barely used Tein S. Tech springs in my garage along with a brand new set of rear Bilstein sport shocks. Have a pair of front Bilstein sport shocks shipping hopefully tomorrow.

Looking to the future... hopefully the new-to-me throttle body will solve my idle issue, and I'm also hoping it along with an upgrade Deatschwerks fuel pump will be a magical cure for the way my car is running. Then I'll throw in the new wideband sensor along with rewired wideband gauge/controller (in the pillar pod). If it seems to run better then I'll start logging data to send to United Motorsport to FINALLY get my tune tweaked
Then will come a weekend trip with my GF and her family. Following weekend will be the suspension and tire swap; shortly thereafter will be an alignment.

 

Nice project..

Ohh is it possible to relocate the MAF infront of the intake like that ? Whats the result.
That look like a good idea!!

Ive been running an F4H-L for almost a year now. A tip is to not go over 25 psi. I think that was to much for my turbine. Thaks to FrankenTurbo you get a new centralcompartment for 150$

I have a really good tune and E85.. I have around 300+ in engine. I am suprised?!?!?

My setup:
Largeport head
3"exhaust
Stock manifold
FMIC
3" MAF
630cc siemens deka
Aeromotive intank 340 stealth pump

 

It is possible to run the MAF right before the throttle body, but it causes the car to run a little erratic due to the shorter distance between the MAF sensor and combustion chamber, compared to the distance on a stock setup.

What happened to your center cartridge that you needed to replace it?

Which tune do you have? Looks like you have a good setup overall.

 

Just want to give y'all an update, for those curious.

I bought the 034 Motorsport block breather to take the place of the normal PCV system, and run a 90 deg. elbow from the block breather to 3/4" hose, that then goes to the catch can, and then from the catch can is more hose going to the pancake valve in the turbo inlet pipe. This fixed the idle issue I was having.

I'm wondering if a new wideband O2 sensor would last longer also because this idle issue is gone, but a new wideband sensor is $56 and I have now gone through 3 of them (including the original sensor). Innovate Motorsport tech support said that even with the heatsink bung extender the sensor is just too close to the turbo when used in the stock primary O2 sensor location like I had it.

Due to the idle issue and non-lasting wideband O2 sensors, I still haven't taken data to send to United Motorsports to have my tune tweaked. All-in-all it runs pretty well, main issue is this bucking behavior it has on cold starts for the first half mile or so around 1800-2500 RPM (in any gear). But of course, getting my tune tweaked will also allow me to squeeze out more power...

New suspension is in, Tein S. Tech springs with Bilstein sport rear shocks, and Koni sport (adjustable) front shocks. The rear of the car sits great, perhaps lower than it should, but the front sits almost a half inch higher than the rear. I don't know if this is the fault of the springs, the struts, not loosening and re-tightening the lower control arm bolts, or what. It's definitely stiffer than what I had before and handles better too

Inside the car I swapped in an instrument cluster with LCD display and the necessary wiper stalk with buttons, and of course replaced the LCD screen with a new one due to dead pixels. Also had the EEPROM which contains mileage information reset, so I could go into VAG-COM and recode the cluster's mileage to match my car's actual mileage.

Also over this past weekend I retrofitted a Prosport oil pressure gauge in place of the analog clock in the instrument cluster, but it will still use the dial and minute-hand point from the analog clock (to match the rest of the cluster). So at 12 o'clock it will be 0psi oil pressure, 1 o'clock is 11psi, 2 o'clock is 22 psi, all the way to 9 o'clock which is 99-100psi. The oil pressure sender still has to be installed (have all the fittings ready to go), and wiring has to be completed. Hopefully it will work! Here are some pics:

Instrument cluster without analog clock:


Prosport Oil Pressure Gauge outside of its shell. Really doesn't take up much space!


Removed connector from gauge's circuit board, and added wires in place. This will allow easy access to the connector for easier cluster removal in the future. Also shows the pressure gauge in place with RTV between the cluster and gauge (while it was drying).


Top (crappy) view of oil pressure gauge installed:


Putting stuff back together! The back shell required only slight trimming to clear the pressure gauge.


And a close-up showing how I made the original minute hand from the clock work with the pressure gauge:

 

My tune is for Ethanol E85.. I am downloading the file via OBDII.. i have a contact that sends me the tune via mail I am impressed in every way. this engine is powerful..
I forgot to mention that i am also running H-beam rods.. There was to much torque for stock rods..

I boosted 30psi for a month and drove it like I stole it.. MY guess is that with this high boost in combination with a budget air filter the turbine was worned out or something like that... take a look for your self !

 

Yikes, 30psi! New connecting rods are definitely necessary at pressures that high. Have you taken your car to a dyno to find out HP and torque?

 

I have been competing in several street races and I overtakes 4wd cars with around 300hp+
An example, I was racing with an Ford Focus RS (310hp) on the highway. I took him on the highway... but this was with eBay tubular manifold. It managed to hold HP much longer.

I suggest peak boost 24.5 psi and the go down to 22psi and hold it there if its not to hot outside but ECU compensates..

Summary. Boosting around 24psi with the FT all day is the best in my opinion.

 

On Saturday night I swapped out the Psi Concepts -10AN turbo oil drain line for the stock drain line, so I could switch back to the stock AC belt and get rid of the washers that were spacing the AC compressor out from the engine block (to clear the Psi Concepts drain line). I didn't seal the fittings on the -10AN drain line so it leaked ever so slightly.

Also added about half a bottle of Seafoam into my oil and drove for ~70miles, then sucked up about 1/3 a bottle through the FPR and DV vacuum connections on the intake mani. When I did the drain line obviously I had to drain the oil (with Seafoam in it) and do a whole oil change I don't know when the last time was that I changed my oil after more than 1,500 miles...

Got some ECS Tuning coilover sleeves for my front Koni shocks on the way because the front of my car sits about one finger-width higher than the rear. This car is killing me

EDIT: Just ordered 034 Motorsport 2.0T coilpack adapters, 1/4" silicone vacuum hose, and 4x 06H905115A coilpacks. All totaled including shipping I'm out $188.

 

Friday night was spent going for a reasonably quick bike ride (only 11ish miles, but fast, on road bikes), and swapping in 2.0T TSI coil packs and new spark plugs.

For whatever reason the coilpacks don't like to sit perfectly aligned with the spark plug tube, so the 034 adapters actually put some sideways force against the coilpacks. Probably not a big deal especially since this well help the coilpacks stay seated more tightly (since they are pop-in).

I had to cut down the rubber insulating boot that sits right underneath the top of the coilpack so it would slide into the 034 adapters, but still prevent debris from entering the spark plug tubes. Also had to trim down the side wings on the coilpacks to fit the 034 adatpers.

Biggest scare was when I dropped a screw down a spark plug hole! Would have had to pull the head if my handy telescoping magnet failed. Lesson learned: don't install coilpack screws when one or more spark plugs are not yet installed.

Oh, and with the new spark plugs (NGK BKR7E) gapped at 0.040", the engine runs SUPER smooth. Idle is smoother, part-throttle is smoother, engine feels more responsive, driving in 0-5mph feels a ton better, and I haven't gotten any misfires at WOT. I love these 2.0T TSI coilpacks best part is they only cost $18 each for genuine Audi units! (adapters cost $20 each also, but oh well)