So i drove my car yesterday and just dirving fine and all of a sudden i let off the clutch and it went into gear fine but the clutch pedal didnt come all the way up to were it normally is. However it was still driving fine. the pedal stayed like this everytime i pushed the clutch in and let it out until i manualy reached down and pulled the clutch back up with my hand. Then it started working normally again all with the same pressure as it normally did. However today when i dropped the car off at the auto body shop for the week, i was in traffic and was waiting at a light with the car in first and clutch in, and all of a sudden the car started to shake a little like it wanted to stall out so i tried to put it in Neutral but it wasnt letting me and the clutch wasnt moving at all and it was stuck to the floor.. So then i turned the car off and everything let go, after i restarted it, eveyrhting went back to normal for the rest of the ride.

Soo.... the clutch has roughly 10k miles on it and still grabs excellent and runs nice. (RS4 clutch with resurfaced flywheel)

Any1 got any ideas to check when i get her back? Im obviously gonna check fluid levels and such , but has any1 else had any issues liek this?

 

check your brake-fluid level. I beleiev (but am not 100% sure, at the moment) that Audi, like many other manufacturers, uses the brake-slave culinder as teh clutch master cylinder-resevoir. I had a similiar issue, years ago, with my Camry, and many, many years before that with my 735i.

with teh Camry, I simply topped it up, and it worked fine

with the B-M-Trouble-U it eventually becamy an issue with the brakes, too, but that took about a year to become a problem, after I topped it up.

 

Crap! he ^ stole my answer haha

 

Ahhh very nice i will check that. sounds liek a good place to start. thanks fellas.


Just hope its not my muffler bearings, might have to put it on the butt dyno and have it looked at

 

damnit, took my answer too!

definitely needs to be topped off

 

haha, yup. the clutches run off Brake fluid.

 

for guder-er repair parts and upgradier upgrades, check out: www.kalecoauto.com

 

Bleeding clutch system



Special tools and workshop equipment required









t
Brake charge and bleed equipment -VAS 5234-



Brake fluid specification



Procedure
Note[/align]


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The clutch system must be bled after performing work on the hydraulic clutch mechanism.



t
It is not necessary to prefill the system.



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When performing the following steps, make sure that no brake fluid escapes onto the gearbox.



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Pull clutch pedal back to its normal rest position.



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Connect brake charge and bleed equipment -VAS5234- to brake fluid reservoir (do not switch on at this stage).



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If necessary, use bleed hose -V.A.G 1238 B/3- (670mm) to bleed system.



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Connect bleed hose to collector bottle of brake charge and bleed equipment -VAS 5234-.









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Connect bleed hose -V.A.G 1238 B/3- to bleeder valve -arrow-.
Note[/align]


Ensure that bleed hose is correctly fitted during bleeding operation.



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Open bleeder valve -arrow-.



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Switch on bleeding equipment.



l
Operating pressure 2.0 bar



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Bleed off about 100 cm10[/size][/font]11 of brake fluid.



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Close bleeder valve.



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Rapidly operate clutch pedal from stop to stop 15 times.



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Bleed off an additional 50 cm12[/size][/font]13 of brake fluid.



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Close bleeder valve. Tightening torque 4.5 Nm.



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Depress clutch pedal several times after bleeding process is completed.



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Bleed system once again if necessary.



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Remove bleed hose and fit protective cap.



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Remove brake charge and bleed equipment -VAS 5234- from brake fluid reservoir.


thats for the right tools now think of it as your bleeding your breaks and forget the above use it as a guide only

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