just some weights on transmissions........
and got my star socket headed screws for the dual mass flywheel.......
last pics happen TONIGHT on my daily!

????Anybody rebuilding the auto transmission and needing that bearing you have to destroy to get to screws to remove the tail end??? it has a flange, is a roller bearing and i cannot find it anywhere. anybody know what im referring to and where i can find one?? or if no bodies making them, are any of you needing this bearing? i going to approach a local bearing manufacture and see if they'll make it.

ps on last post about the intake manifold flaps had me researching. I was reading a ssp on the 4.2 and all that sludge that get in the intake manifold is because they imitate a "egr system" by pumping exhaust into intake tract. By overlapping intake valve on exhaust stroke even more. No externally plumbing or valves.... makes some sense. Just enough overlap for quantity of exhaust for next power stroke to pass emissions. kinda neat i thought so i shared

FATTY!!!

281lbs

155lbs

this was on my daily driver. im sure it was missed by myself smh didnt tighten it.

thread lock could have possibly prevented this. although not torqued, if installed with thread lock and even just finger tight would have still not loosened and not contacted the axle stub.

incorrect torque, wheel end vibrations and forward rotation of axle continuously unscrewed this screw clamping the wheel bearing.

 

I last posted in 2016 in this thread, and have been following it still for almost a decade. Keep it up man, ill buy you a beer when you've got'er done!

 

thanks for the motivation! hope im doing the same for someone out there.






this made me really smile bringing her home from storage.
Junkyard coolers should fit straight across inside rear bumper. Pedal cluster ready to go in.
For pistons I am going with gas ported top ring and a gapless 2nd I wanna try those. But I am looking for anybody with first hand experience with piston coatings?? Please let me know. Maybe creakote top and some thing on the skirts.??

 

I presume your asking about a ceramic coating on the pistons - not a bad idea. I've seen skirt coatings done rather often usually as a way to build up piston to wall clearance after a block has had a clean up hone. Had as much as .002' added back on to the skirts. Look into a fluropolymer coating. Ceramics aren't done on the domes to often. But only in extreme cases. If your tune is right, you won't need a top coat, as the proper mixture will keep the temps in check.

 

LOVE love love the ski-through in this car. I can bring 2x4s, 4x4s, long angle iron, all kinds of stuff makes D2 very capable. finally pieced together a rook rack from scrapyard. so now with added roof storage WOW this car becomes a comforting solution for cross country travel for sure. no bags in the cabin area, roomy CLEAN traveling setup. A recent break down made me realize ALWAYS have backup transportation(bike), tools and a hi-lift jack whenever traveling out of town and with heavy trucks ALL the time. Alot of thing can be fixed as long as you can get to a hardware/parts store or just off the road to gas. i didnt run out of fuel but a fuller tank helped a leaky pump pull enough fuel to get off road OR if your A8 has unusable last quarter tank issue!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by twopedalwarrior

I presume your asking about a ceramic coating on the pistons - not a bad idea. I've seen skirt coatings done rather often usually as a way to build up piston to wall clearance after a block has had a clean up hone. Had as much as .002' added back on to the skirts. Look into a fluropolymer coating. Ceramics aren't done on the domes to often. But only in extreme cases. If your tune is right, you won't need a top coat, as the proper mixture will keep the temps in check.

abraidable coatings for clearance or slippery treatments for friction hmmmm let me see where the bores and pistons measure. For piston tops, i want to keep heat out so i gotta put something. if no testimonies ill try the home coatings and let y'all know.



!!!

 

i cannot speak for all limp modes and this is an event that i can't nor want to recreate so my best guess is all......here was my situation,
i was down shifting in manual mode to ascend a hill and my cluster showed limp mode (all ranges highlighted). I always thought i had to turn car off to get it to reset but i tried to put in neutral then back into drive, i felt the knotch/gate. i could feel and hear the transmission shifting, not making any odd noises, in a locate i could not pull over and on occasion shifting in manual mode would not register on the cluster. With all that in mind i decided to giggle side to side in the D and manual/tiptronic gate and it showed the correct D in the cluster and normal functioning resumed! MADE MY DAY. A nice little trick; bang it around like a manual till it works

i think some limp modes can be triggered by the selector switch in the gear shift lever not lining up/in-sync with the cable switch down on transmission. maybe the slight motion in between tranny, subframe and body adds up to relatively alot of motion and although the cable has slack it still moves enough in the chain to not match.

01E spacers should be here tomorrow, soon the matting of the two!! 6-speed plus 40 valves = appx. 120 speeds

 

had to replace radiator this week. i have to say this model is really maintenance friendly. remove bumper(two screws), loosen headlights, slide steering cooler and condenser to the side and 4 isolator hold the radiator to carrier. watch them the are exteremly brittle isolators. i tried to glue mines back on, didnt hold up. i just sat the radiator in the carrier with bottom two isolators and wire tired top corners to carrier. Once closed up and testing with water all held together until i touched the T fitting, at the dirverside strut tower, to tie it down and it burst. cleaned the hoses of the crumbled plastic, replaced it with a metal t fitting and filled system again, all good this time.
i always had a feeling in the back of my conscious the car had some weakness lurking in the background well this was it! Plastics in the cooling circuit is a time bomb. i recommend replacing all plastic in ANY vehicle but any aged car especially. so for us(D2) thats 7 pieces; 2 thru-fittings going to/from HVAC in plenum, overflow tank, T-fitting, "oilcooler to block" pipe with four orings and the two tanks of the radiator. tanks looks to be repairable. the crimp fingers holding the tank on might hold a second rebuild, for sure though you can seal it up and metal ziptie tanks on. ill do a rebuild/clean-out post. some years' the HVAC/bleeding pipes have metal inserts and are holding up but who knows.... im going to replace.
for now im more comfortable filling my hardened coolant system with the evans waterless. i hear it runs hotter but im concerned with "interfaces" more and more. so priorities are the cylinder walls and coolant's interactions. preventing boiling that effects the connection between water based coolants and the cylinder walls surface utmost importance for me. ill flush it and replace with evans after i replace my rear main :-( smh its time.

tested my baby on the grades of Shenandoah valley mountains. Very very capable, NO ISSUES, nothing more did i desired on the dirt roads. i had a GREAT time and memories so thank you Audi. a guest with a 4x4 truck drove from/to the cabin with me and he says "Your car handled those hills like a champ!"