I have an 2001 allroad automatic 2.7 "EYK". Long post, please bear with me.

I read a lot, but never post here. I have all the tools needed for pretty much any job, and thought I had the skill to match. Until I tried to rebuild my first automatic transmission.

Transmission went out on it, no reverse, limited forward gears that eventually would send it into limp mode, but not right away. Since it died close to home I got it into the driveway ok.

Pulled the transmission out and disassembled it to find a broken D/G drum. I guess this is common for BMW's with the same transmission, but I haven't found anyone with an Audi that's had the same problem.

I ordered a new drum, when it arrived I confirmed it was the same, part numbers and measurements were all the same. I am certain it was identical to the original. I put it all back together with new clutch plates, seals, gaskets and torque converter.

Filled fluid properly, done it several other times on other Audi's. Still up on stands, all wheels off the ground I try to run through the gears.

Park acts normally.
Reverse: engine rpms drop as expected under load. No wheel movement at idle, give it a little gas and the wheels start to jerk sporadically. Something clearly isn't right.
Neutral acts normally.
Drive and all lower gears including tip mode: engine rpms drop as expected under load. Wheels start to turn, then stop, then start turning again. Brakes can't stop the wheels at idle, antilock kicks in and they keep on turning. Back into neutral I can stop the wheels with light braking.

Thought I was very thorough with the rebuild with ELSA guidance. Maybe there's a problem with the valve body I thought. Ordered and tried a new one, no change.

Took it all apart again to find the torque converter was locked up, defective from the start I guess. Got a replacement, checked it, no problems. While it was apart I checked all my work on the inside of the tranny. No problems found, everything looks good.

I put it all together again. Same problems as the first time around.

Anyone have any thoughts? Seriously, cash reward through paypal for the guy the helps me solve this.

 

maybe you should test the car on the ground. also is esp enabled or disabled?

 

Buy a rebuilt ZF Tiptronic and be done with it...

 

It acts the same with ESP on or off. I don't want to set it on the ground until I'm confident it will work, unless there's some reason it could act like this with no load on the wheels?

Buying a replacement isn't economical for me, and I wouldn't learn anything from it. Somehow I'll find a solution, I was just hoping someone on here might have some other idea's.