Big Brakes
2nd Gear
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,276
From:
RE: Big Brakes
ORIGINAL: cincyTT
2 peice rotors make a HUGE difference also. My wilwoods are cool to the touch in mins after a hard drive. I dare someone to touch their 1 peice rotors after 4-5mins of cool down after a hard drive. Come on, I DARE YA (disclaimer, i take no responsibilty for your ignorace and first/second degree burns)
2 peice rotors make a HUGE difference also. My wilwoods are cool to the touch in mins after a hard drive. I dare someone to touch their 1 peice rotors after 4-5mins of cool down after a hard drive. Come on, I DARE YA (disclaimer, i take no responsibilty for your ignorace and first/second degree burns)
See you have wilwoods, i was looking at them but they dont have dust boots and dust can easily get into the piston. Have you had that problem yet?
I ended up gettin the ecs 2v2 and so far im happy, i really dont track it that much but they sure do look good.
4th Gear
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 4,354
RE: Big Brakes
ORIGINAL: david9999
Save your money, unless you are taking your car to the track. Lets look a the physics of braking.
All brakes on modern carswill easily lock up the wheelsand activate the ABS. Thus, the braking distance of the car is limited not by the brake shoes and calipers, but by the friction between the tires and the road. In regular braking, big brakes wont shorten your stopping distance as it is not the brakes that are the weak point, it is the tires. If you are tracking your car, big brakes will dissipate more heat and will prevent brake fading with repeated use without time for the rotors to cool down. This rarely happens outside of racing.
Save your money, unless you are taking your car to the track. Lets look a the physics of braking.
All brakes on modern carswill easily lock up the wheelsand activate the ABS. Thus, the braking distance of the car is limited not by the brake shoes and calipers, but by the friction between the tires and the road. In regular braking, big brakes wont shorten your stopping distance as it is not the brakes that are the weak point, it is the tires. If you are tracking your car, big brakes will dissipate more heat and will prevent brake fading with repeated use without time for the rotors to cool down. This rarely happens outside of racing.
I'm make believe
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 17,587
From: In my head
RE: Big Brakes
ORIGINAL: trailboss
You mean the rotor vane and cross drilling?
You mean the rotor vane and cross drilling?
If i was just looking for something better than stock and not going with anything more than 300hp, the tt carriers with the ecs 2 peice rotor would be a great option. You get better stopping power from moving the caliper further away from center (simple physics) and cooler rotors to prevent fading
2nd Gear
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,276
From:
RE: Big Brakes
Yes the rotor hat will disipate the heat quicker, but, vented rotors wit a good vane designalong with cross drilling or slottingwill help greatly in cooling the brakes.
Also brake fade is caused by over heated brake pads, hence the need for track pads, and also underratted brake fluid and rubber lines which can tend to expand.
And moving the rotor further out will not necessarly give you better stopping power b/c simply you are not changing the clamping force of the caliper. Secondly a better pad with a more aggressive compound will aid much more in better braking than just throwing on bigger rotors.
Also brake fade is caused by over heated brake pads, hence the need for track pads, and also underratted brake fluid and rubber lines which can tend to expand.
And moving the rotor further out will not necessarly give you better stopping power b/c simply you are not changing the clamping force of the caliper. Secondly a better pad with a more aggressive compound will aid much more in better braking than just throwing on bigger rotors.
Zombie Defense Force
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,782
From: Dallas
RE: Big Brakes
hawk hps pads. ran them on the track for 4 20 min sessions with speeds well over 115 and slowing to 20 at full brake. didnt fade one me. they squeek like a bitch though. someone should design a brake cooling system like this
http://forgemotorsport.com/content.a...oduct=FMEVOBCD
for a4's
http://forgemotorsport.com/content.a...oduct=FMEVOBCD
for a4's
I'm make believe
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 17,587
From: In my head
RE: Big Brakes
take 2
please do homework and not say silly stuff to try to correct me, thats just embarresing.....FOR YOU
ORIGINAL: trailboss
Yes the rotor hat will disipate the heat quicker, but, vented rotors wit a good vane designalong with cross drilling or slottingwill help greatly in cooling the brakes. All stock and replacement rotors will bevented and with agood vane pattern. Cross drilled rotors clean the pad and allow trapped gasses excape in the slots. Crossed drilled allow gas and water to be pushed into the hole for better contact between the pad and rotor. Both of these take away from surface for the pad to make contact with the rotor and dont cool the rotor, just let gas excape. Also not really meant for a mild to moderate street car. The aluminum hat will drop the temps very quickly and prevent fading from happening since it is due to heat (brakes cant turn power in to heat if the rotor/padare already attheir peak heats).
Also brake fade is caused by over heated brake pads, hence the need for track pads, and also underratted brake fluid and rubber lines which can tend to expand. Yes, you need a pad for what your running. They come in differnt heat ranges and running a track pad on the street isnt good nor is running a street pad on the track. There are many performance pad which are a good compermise between the two.
And moving the rotor further out will not necessarly give you better stopping power b/c simply you are not changing the clamping force of the caliper . Someone needs to teach you the law of levers. Simple example, you need to undo a tight bolt, you can either apply massive amount of force on a small socket wrench or get a really long socket wrench and apply far less pressure on the wrench to free the bolt. Same concept applies here. Also your not moving the rotor, your increasing its diameter to move the caliper further out. Same force applied to the rotor, but much greater stopping power. Im sure Papachristou will confirm it for you if you like.
Secondly a better pad with a more aggressive compound will aid much more in better braking than just throwing on bigger rotors. well duh, thats just common sense.
Yes the rotor hat will disipate the heat quicker, but, vented rotors wit a good vane designalong with cross drilling or slottingwill help greatly in cooling the brakes. All stock and replacement rotors will bevented and with agood vane pattern. Cross drilled rotors clean the pad and allow trapped gasses excape in the slots. Crossed drilled allow gas and water to be pushed into the hole for better contact between the pad and rotor. Both of these take away from surface for the pad to make contact with the rotor and dont cool the rotor, just let gas excape. Also not really meant for a mild to moderate street car. The aluminum hat will drop the temps very quickly and prevent fading from happening since it is due to heat (brakes cant turn power in to heat if the rotor/padare already attheir peak heats).
Also brake fade is caused by over heated brake pads, hence the need for track pads, and also underratted brake fluid and rubber lines which can tend to expand. Yes, you need a pad for what your running. They come in differnt heat ranges and running a track pad on the street isnt good nor is running a street pad on the track. There are many performance pad which are a good compermise between the two.
And moving the rotor further out will not necessarly give you better stopping power b/c simply you are not changing the clamping force of the caliper . Someone needs to teach you the law of levers. Simple example, you need to undo a tight bolt, you can either apply massive amount of force on a small socket wrench or get a really long socket wrench and apply far less pressure on the wrench to free the bolt. Same concept applies here. Also your not moving the rotor, your increasing its diameter to move the caliper further out. Same force applied to the rotor, but much greater stopping power. Im sure Papachristou will confirm it for you if you like.
Secondly a better pad with a more aggressive compound will aid much more in better braking than just throwing on bigger rotors. well duh, thats just common sense.