Was a big Mod Weekend
looks sick! how hard was it to relocate the climate controls to the ashtray position? cause i want to put in a double din instead of the stock deck.
and you should turbo the 2.8, since hardly no one ever tries it, yet everyone supercharges them. and the g2 is limited in what it can do since it can't be intercooled, and the 2.8 would need quite a bit of internal work to run higher boost. although if you did internals and slapped on a whipple, you wouldn't hear any complaints from me
and you should turbo the 2.8, since hardly no one ever tries it, yet everyone supercharges them. and the g2 is limited in what it can do since it can't be intercooled, and the 2.8 would need quite a bit of internal work to run higher boost. although if you did internals and slapped on a whipple, you wouldn't hear any complaints from me

you lazy bum lol. what i meant was the snow dammit. well some1 somehow drove into the ditch by university plaza. i don't see how it's possible as it was a dead straight road. well maybe cuz it's an altima lol
was TOTALLY joking about the clock. LOL. and the boost gauge is for after the motor swap. I wouldn't put one on a NA car... monitoring my vacuum would be a blast I'm sure.
The 12v I have now is at over 180k miles. no work will be done to it except to pull it out when it's time is over. I'm looking at a 30v with the g2 charger. I machined a water to air intercooler for a eaton m112 charger at one point, so I'm thinking of doing the same thing on a 30v. the g2 with a reduced pulley, water to air intercooler, and overbored cylinders to reduce the compression ratio for the higher boost. i need to do some reading on the g2, or contact the manufacturer. it's a roots type blower but I'm sure they know at what PSI the blower begins creating mre heat than it's worth. my guess is it's at around 13PSI.
Thanks for all the comments... I'll keep throwing pics up as I get the wheels, lip, and more mods in the future!
-Ryan
OH! and as far as relocating the controls, I actually cut the casing on the digital box to remove the face. i cut it about an 1/8" behind where the black plastic face starts, just behind the mounting tabs. the ribbon cable in the case is about 3" long, just long enough to mount the face and get the box clear of the center console surround. i needed to resolder the ribbon cable socket on the face to get it to light properly again anyway, so the extra work wasn't that far outside of what i was working on.
It makes for alot more space in the dash, the opening is cavernous, and you could fit just about anything in there. Also, it seems more ergonomic to me. i actually cut notches into the center console plastic and slid the existing mounting tabs on the face of the controls into those. it's purely friction fit, and as you see it in the photo, there are no fasteres or glue holding it in place. it's about as snug as you can get it without breaking it during install.
The 12v I have now is at over 180k miles. no work will be done to it except to pull it out when it's time is over. I'm looking at a 30v with the g2 charger. I machined a water to air intercooler for a eaton m112 charger at one point, so I'm thinking of doing the same thing on a 30v. the g2 with a reduced pulley, water to air intercooler, and overbored cylinders to reduce the compression ratio for the higher boost. i need to do some reading on the g2, or contact the manufacturer. it's a roots type blower but I'm sure they know at what PSI the blower begins creating mre heat than it's worth. my guess is it's at around 13PSI.
Thanks for all the comments... I'll keep throwing pics up as I get the wheels, lip, and more mods in the future!
-Ryan
OH! and as far as relocating the controls, I actually cut the casing on the digital box to remove the face. i cut it about an 1/8" behind where the black plastic face starts, just behind the mounting tabs. the ribbon cable in the case is about 3" long, just long enough to mount the face and get the box clear of the center console surround. i needed to resolder the ribbon cable socket on the face to get it to light properly again anyway, so the extra work wasn't that far outside of what i was working on.
It makes for alot more space in the dash, the opening is cavernous, and you could fit just about anything in there. Also, it seems more ergonomic to me. i actually cut notches into the center console plastic and slid the existing mounting tabs on the face of the controls into those. it's purely friction fit, and as you see it in the photo, there are no fasteres or glue holding it in place. it's about as snug as you can get it without breaking it during install.
the real question is how to do the piping for the intercooler lol. the throttle body is in the back of the engine towards the rear and it's pretty cramped. not only that, the amount of piping will kill most of the extra hp you would have gained.




