what I meant was at the high end. the spec boost seems to also be reading the atmospheric pressure, as the values are similar.

 

Thanks for the info... I have some pics that are pretty entertaining, I think I found the problem, but Im not sure. Stay tuned.

 

These are just pictures that are pretty self explanatory, not a DIY, but I guess it could be turned into one. I used 2" pvc piping according to the instructions in the link above. I thought I had read somewhere that you need to plug the throtle body hose so I tried plugged and not plugged (connected back to tb.) My neighbor was supposed to let me use his air compressor but he copped out. For fun, I hooked up a bicycle tire pump. I could hear air leaking somewhere around the airbox, and just check the pics..














It was rotted on the bootom and completely not visible from any angle looking from the top... Sneaky...
While I had the pancake valve for the evap out I cleaned it out with carb cleaner, and when I was done it looked like someone took a crap on my garage floor [:@]
So Im not sure if that rotted out check valve would be responsible for the negative deviation code somehow or not.

 

Good job on finding your leak!!! Congratulations.

 

Thanks!
Here is a temporary fix (plumbing thread sealer tape.) Its sealed really well and the valve still works like it should.

 

Went for a drive and it still goes into limp w/ neg deviation code.

 

Can you post the actual scan codes?

 

17964 - Charge Pressure Control: Negative Deviation
P1556 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

 

Damn, you had a busy day!
Nice find, I like the boost tester you made, pretty nifty!
So still having the problem. That sux.
hopefully the MBC will help.

 

Its gotta be the n75 valve, I just the hope the mbc works or else Im gunna have to buy an H valve again because i know I wont have problems with it.