so how much is a new MAF?

 

dont jump the gun here the maf is expensive so get the codes first

 

It could also be something else like the injectors.

 

ok thanks for everyones help! So I'm not sure what it was... I think maybe my MAF wasn't all the way snapped in, cause my snap broke!!! Anyways I went down there yesterday and made sure that everything was tight, went out and got SUPER drunk last night. Woke up this morning to go have breakfast and WALLA, no more cell. Gas mileage is doing great, and there is not more stall/lag issue with the clutch (i thougth my clutch was going out, made another thread about it). So all in all thanks everyone, I think this calls for giving her another wax (3weeks in a row now)!

Next question... hopefully I don't need to make another thread about this.

So as I said before I have a service that is now in 900 miles. Someone above was kind enough to give me the codes to clear this. However, when you take your car into the stealership for a service, what do they do to it? Do they just change the oil etc or should I really take it down there, or just have the oil changed up here? ALSO another BIG question I have is.... After putting in the forge007 and custom intake, willl this void my warranty? or will the frown upon this or what?

 

This should give you an idea http://www.bentleypublishers.com/ima...ance.sched.pdf

The nice thing about the dealer is your getting O.E.M. parts,But if your just looking to get an oil change any place should be ok,Just make sure the place is certified and knodwledgable about audi's

 

FYI: I just replaced my MAF and looked into the pricing. Audi dealers stock rebuilt MAFs($200), online brand new ($250-$300), brand new from Audi ($400). Not an item to check by swapping, make sure it is bad.

 

ok... so on our drive down to denver we made a pit stop for some gas right outside of Steamboat Springs. Got back in the car and my F*(king cell light came on again!!! I quickly popped the hood and made sure that the maf was all the way in, it was. So I didn't know what to do, and continued with my trip. I noticed that on some of the hills my car seemed really slow, then I turned down the music and noticed I wasn't hearing my turbo spool again!

I didn't have enough time to jack up the car and take out the dv... but could this be something wrong with the spring inside? Do I need to add some of the metal things in there, or should I change the spring? The one I have in there now is the one that came with it... I hvae both the blue and yellow springs sitting at home, along with the 2 metal plates.

 

The green spring(the one that came inside the forge)i believe should be fine for stock or chipped boost...you should check for vaccum leaks..there are a few DIY for vacuum leaks..

 

Do a little more research, a maf can be had for a lot less: http://ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/page...mp;engine=1.8T

akoby9- Since you have a CEL again, you should get it scanned again for the fault code. Your maf is probably dead though. Your DV is probably fine. If you dont have access to diagnostic equipment like vag com, and dont want to go to the dealer, unplug your MAF-if it drives better, replace it. Even if that ends up not being the problem (which it probably is) then you can always sell it here in the classifieds. People always need MAF's.

 

Onepoint thanks for that link!

I took my car into someone up here the other day. He ran the codes on my car and the things that came up where: mass air flow, low air flow, and lean.

I've also been having problems with my turbo not spooling and being really slow. So I think this is all from the MAF being bad... in that link you sent me which one do I need to order? Whats some of the differences between them all? After looking at some of them it looks like I can get the one at the top for 104.95 correct?