conflicting info on CEL clearing in search...
OK, I just changed my cam sensor (BTW, I have a 2.8L 30v and used one from a 1.8T and the part numbers are the same - it appears they ARE interchangeable). My CEL has been on for quite awhile with this fault (for cylinder bank #1 - passenger side cam sensor). The new-used one is in (it was removed from a 1.8T with around 57k miles).
In searching, I have found different opinions on clearing the CEL. I do not have VAG software, so I can't do it that way, and the local auto parts stores won't clear it for me. Some have said that it takes a certain number of drive cycles for the light to shut off, and others have said it is a certain number of miles driven to shut off the CEL. Which is it? Or can it be either? Some also said disconnecting the battery for 20-30 minutes will do it, but I've read from others that this is a bad idea. Can anyone clarify this once and for all? TIA...
In searching, I have found different opinions on clearing the CEL. I do not have VAG software, so I can't do it that way, and the local auto parts stores won't clear it for me. Some have said that it takes a certain number of drive cycles for the light to shut off, and others have said it is a certain number of miles driven to shut off the CEL. Which is it? Or can it be either? Some also said disconnecting the battery for 20-30 minutes will do it, but I've read from others that this is a bad idea. Can anyone clarify this once and for all? TIA...
I am no mechanic, but as far as I know, it won't clear itself.
There are better ways to do it,but what I have done and would do is remove the negative battery cable to clear the codes. The system will have to run for awhile to recognize any faults and if the problem is truely fixed it it shouldn't throw any faults. If the cel comes back--go to autozone and see what it is.
There are better ways to do it,but what I have done and would do is remove the negative battery cable to clear the codes. The system will have to run for awhile to recognize any faults and if the problem is truely fixed it it shouldn't throw any faults. If the cel comes back--go to autozone and see what it is.
Yup, just un-plug the negative terminal from the battery. Let it site for 15 min or so and then hook it back up. Once you do this you will need to run a TBA (Throttle Body Alignment). To do this just turn your key to the on-position w/out starting the car and let it sit for 5-10 min. Once you do that start your car! Oh and make sure you have your radio code for your stereo BEFORE you unplug that battery or else your stereo won't work and you will have to go to the dealer to get a new code and that cost's $$.
Josh
Josh
OK guys, thank you for clearing it up. I'll go out and unhook it in a few minutes and then do the TBA after that. No sweat on the radio codes - I ditched all the OEM stereo gear awhile back. I did stop again at Advance Auto and had them rescan the car and the only code is still P1519 for the bank 1 cam sensor, so this should shut the light off.
Thanks again
Thanks again

Just tried it and the CEL stayed on. I had the car scanned this morning and they confirmed that there was only the cam sensor code. I did the TBA after hooking the battery back up, and once the alignment was finished, I went for a spin around the neighborhood (a couple miles, topped out around 40-45 mph if that matters). Three possibilities come to mind (maybe you guys can chime in on what you think):
a - I didn't wait long enough (my stereo didn't even lose its memory), although I did give it 15 minutes
b - I changed the wrong damn sensor (cylinder bank 1 I would assume to be the passenger bank since it's labeled as having cylinders 1-3) - I changed the passenger side sensor, but am I wrong on my assumption of which bank is bank 1?
c - the replacement sensor is also bad (although I really don't have reason to suspect this)
In any event, I disconnected the battery again and I'm gonna leave it for longer (maybe 25-30 minutes) and see what happens then. Any opinions on this new info guys? I'd have a hard time believing that I just cleared my cam sensor code and at the same time a different part failed and threw a code to trigger an unrelated CEL.
a - I didn't wait long enough (my stereo didn't even lose its memory), although I did give it 15 minutes
b - I changed the wrong damn sensor (cylinder bank 1 I would assume to be the passenger bank since it's labeled as having cylinders 1-3) - I changed the passenger side sensor, but am I wrong on my assumption of which bank is bank 1?
c - the replacement sensor is also bad (although I really don't have reason to suspect this)
In any event, I disconnected the battery again and I'm gonna leave it for longer (maybe 25-30 minutes) and see what happens then. Any opinions on this new info guys? I'd have a hard time believing that I just cleared my cam sensor code and at the same time a different part failed and threw a code to trigger an unrelated CEL.
OK, I left it disconnected for a half hour, reconnected the battery, did the TBA, fired up the engine, and the light blinked out for about 1/10th of a second, then came back. And my stereo still didn't lose its memory lol, but the code (I assume the same code of course) is still showing up. I'm gonna stop after work tomorrow at Auto Zone to verify it, but any other ideas out there about this, besides the possibility that the sensor is bad or that bank 1 is actually the driver's side cylinder bank?
Nice - I'll get ahold of you probably tomorrow - I planned on stopping there tomorrow afternoon anyhow to have them double-check the code and make sure it's the same and only one. Thanks
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