Nitrous set up, writeup
2nd Gear
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,397
From: VA
RE: Nitrous set up, writeup
ORIGINAL: oneg
OHOH, one more thing, its set up so once i flip an arming switch, its ready, and when i push the peddle down too full throttle, it clicks on the nitrous and sprays it into the intake. so it goes on when the intake is full open and when the peddles floored, a little different from the push button setup i was going to run.
OHOH, one more thing, its set up so once i flip an arming switch, its ready, and when i push the peddle down too full throttle, it clicks on the nitrous and sprays it into the intake. so it goes on when the intake is full open and when the peddles floored, a little different from the push button setup i was going to run.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,646
From: Orem, UT
RE: Nitrous set up, writeup
congrats on the setup man, i was wondering when you were going to do it.
back in highschool i installed nitrous in my awd eagle talon, it was fun as hell. have fun, use with caution
back in highschool i installed nitrous in my awd eagle talon, it was fun as hell. have fun, use with caution
RE: Nitrous set up, writeup
i am suprised more 1.8 guys haven't jumped that wagon, get and extra 50 or 75 hp without going bigger turbo....... i have heard from parts dealers that 1.8 motors love that stuff
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1st Gear
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 429
From:
RE: Nitrous set up, writeup
ORIGINAL: turbo kraut
i am suprised more 1.8 guys haven't jumped that wagon, get and extra 50 or 75 hp without going bigger turbo....... i have heard from parts dealers that 1.8 motors love that stuff
i am suprised more 1.8 guys haven't jumped that wagon, get and extra 50 or 75 hp without going bigger turbo....... i have heard from parts dealers that 1.8 motors love that stuff
1st Gear
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 9
RE: Nitrous set up, writeup
Based on some of the posts I have read, it looks like there are not a lot of people that have used NOS extensively on this site. I love juice and have hooked it up and ran it on many cars from 4 cylinder cavaliers to full size trucks to 500HP fogger kits on stroked small blocks.
The biggest misnomer about NOS is that it will blow up you engine. This can be true if you use it inaccurately, but it is due to the fact that the engine is leaned out and then the piston, spark plug, head gasket, cylinder head becomes the fuel for the combustion resulting in melt down.
The thing to remember about engines is that they are just very intracate air pumps. So the more air(oxygen) you can put into the engine the more power it will make. The only thing is you have to make sure and supply sufficient fuel to keep the Air/Fuel ratio in a safe range. NOS does exactly the same thing that a turbo or supercharger does, it adds more air (oxygen) to the engine, it just does it by adding an oxygen rich fuel, rather than by increasing the density of the air to increase the oxygen being delivered.
Regarding the use of a "Dry Kit", which is a NOS system that only delivers NOS, it does not have a seperate solenoid to add additional fuel, this is more beneficial on most port injected vehicles than a "Wet Kit" which delivers fuel/nitrous mixture. The reason for this is that the intake manifold on a port injected vehicle is not designed for a liquid (even atomized) mixture flow. What can result is fuel droplets puddling on the walls of the intake resulting in a lean mixture, typically on certain cylinder that are furthest from the throttle body opening. This also is usually only an issue on higher HP levels, 175+, but can be an issue on lower HP levels if the manifold design contibutes to it, cylinders 5 and 7 and the Ford Mustang 5.0 for instance.
A dry kit basically uses the cars own fuel system and electronics to supply the extra fuel that is required to keep the A/F in line when spraying the car. The way this works is that when you insert the dry nozzle BEFORE the MAF meter, the extreme temp drop created by the NOS going from a liquid to gaseous state chills the MAF andsend the computer into "Cold Start Mode" which result in a change of the pulse width of the injector and allows more fuel to be injected. The additional benefit to this is that before the NOS gets there the extra fuel is already there so the lean fuel mixture issue is eliminated.
The Dry Kit does have it's limitations though, which is the stock fuel system of the vehicle. A few examples of safe set ups we have determined are:
WS-6 LS1 trans am, 175 HP, Saleen mustang, 4.6 version, 175HP, Cavalier 2.0 75HP, Chevy Z-71 Pickup, the 350 version, 125HP. obviously none of these are Audi's, as I have only recently become an Audi Fanatic and have not yet installed a kit on my A-4, however, the principal is the same, you need to add an A/F guage directly after the exhaust manifold and start low, say 50HP and go up from there.
One other thing I would like to add, if you are using a Wet Kit, I would recommend getting a hobbs pressure switch if you are using a simple 2 solenoid system. Judging from the photos in this post, that NOS bottle looks like the old style that NOS got rid of back in the late 90's, so I'm not sure if the system was a used kit or not. NOS systems typically include a hobbs pressure switch, which is installed in the fuel supply line, this way if the pressure drops below the specified level, it cuts the system ground to cut the solenoids until the pressure returns, which keeps your car from going lean and blowing a head gasket or eating a plug or worse a head or piston.
There are lots more things regarding NOS that I could go into, there are other mechanical ways to boost fule pressue, kits for additional fuel pumps/boost pumps. There are timing adjustment issues that need to be addressed with the proper electronics/programming. I cannot write a book, this is long enough, but if anyone has any other questions let me know. Hope this helps.
The biggest misnomer about NOS is that it will blow up you engine. This can be true if you use it inaccurately, but it is due to the fact that the engine is leaned out and then the piston, spark plug, head gasket, cylinder head becomes the fuel for the combustion resulting in melt down.
The thing to remember about engines is that they are just very intracate air pumps. So the more air(oxygen) you can put into the engine the more power it will make. The only thing is you have to make sure and supply sufficient fuel to keep the Air/Fuel ratio in a safe range. NOS does exactly the same thing that a turbo or supercharger does, it adds more air (oxygen) to the engine, it just does it by adding an oxygen rich fuel, rather than by increasing the density of the air to increase the oxygen being delivered.
Regarding the use of a "Dry Kit", which is a NOS system that only delivers NOS, it does not have a seperate solenoid to add additional fuel, this is more beneficial on most port injected vehicles than a "Wet Kit" which delivers fuel/nitrous mixture. The reason for this is that the intake manifold on a port injected vehicle is not designed for a liquid (even atomized) mixture flow. What can result is fuel droplets puddling on the walls of the intake resulting in a lean mixture, typically on certain cylinder that are furthest from the throttle body opening. This also is usually only an issue on higher HP levels, 175+, but can be an issue on lower HP levels if the manifold design contibutes to it, cylinders 5 and 7 and the Ford Mustang 5.0 for instance.
A dry kit basically uses the cars own fuel system and electronics to supply the extra fuel that is required to keep the A/F in line when spraying the car. The way this works is that when you insert the dry nozzle BEFORE the MAF meter, the extreme temp drop created by the NOS going from a liquid to gaseous state chills the MAF andsend the computer into "Cold Start Mode" which result in a change of the pulse width of the injector and allows more fuel to be injected. The additional benefit to this is that before the NOS gets there the extra fuel is already there so the lean fuel mixture issue is eliminated.
The Dry Kit does have it's limitations though, which is the stock fuel system of the vehicle. A few examples of safe set ups we have determined are:
WS-6 LS1 trans am, 175 HP, Saleen mustang, 4.6 version, 175HP, Cavalier 2.0 75HP, Chevy Z-71 Pickup, the 350 version, 125HP. obviously none of these are Audi's, as I have only recently become an Audi Fanatic and have not yet installed a kit on my A-4, however, the principal is the same, you need to add an A/F guage directly after the exhaust manifold and start low, say 50HP and go up from there.
One other thing I would like to add, if you are using a Wet Kit, I would recommend getting a hobbs pressure switch if you are using a simple 2 solenoid system. Judging from the photos in this post, that NOS bottle looks like the old style that NOS got rid of back in the late 90's, so I'm not sure if the system was a used kit or not. NOS systems typically include a hobbs pressure switch, which is installed in the fuel supply line, this way if the pressure drops below the specified level, it cuts the system ground to cut the solenoids until the pressure returns, which keeps your car from going lean and blowing a head gasket or eating a plug or worse a head or piston.
There are lots more things regarding NOS that I could go into, there are other mechanical ways to boost fule pressue, kits for additional fuel pumps/boost pumps. There are timing adjustment issues that need to be addressed with the proper electronics/programming. I cannot write a book, this is long enough, but if anyone has any other questions let me know. Hope this helps.
I'm make believe
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 17,587
From: In my head
RE: Nitrous set up, writeup
ORIGINAL: oneg
yeah im kinda suprised too, but i think most people think its goign to blow there engine real quick, which isnt true as long as its done right and with the right kit. going through a turbo it will yeild high gains then what you put into it too. a 75hp shot yeilds more then 75, not sure what exactly, but ask cincy.
ORIGINAL: turbo kraut
i am suprised more 1.8 guys haven't jumped that wagon, get and extra 50 or 75 hp without going bigger turbo....... i have heard from parts dealers that 1.8 motors love that stuff
i am suprised more 1.8 guys haven't jumped that wagon, get and extra 50 or 75 hp without going bigger turbo....... i have heard from parts dealers that 1.8 motors love that stuff
). But its not bad for the1.8t if limited to 75wet and injected above 3500-4k. On a stock turbo, the 75shot will net you 100whp.
RE: Nitrous set up, writeup
people either dont like nitrous or think its goin to blow stuff up at any level(see audiworld ). But its not bad for the1.8t if limited to 75wet and injected above 3500-4k. On a stock turbo, the 75shot will net you 100whp.
). But its not bad for the1.8t if limited to 75wet and injected above 3500-4k. On a stock turbo, the 75shot will net you 100whp.
but i might have to look into that after i get a second car
2nd Gear
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,498
From: Neptune Beach, FL
RE: Nitrous set up, writeup
I would use it for spool up, but not for top end. But I am actually looking into putting a fuel injector into my exhaust manifold and retarding the timing for spool up. I haven't found a setup that works yet, but I also haven't really put much time into it.....damn school.
Thread Starter
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1st Gear
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 429
From:
RE: Nitrous set up, writeup
ORIGINAL: jony51999
Based on some of the posts I have read, it looks like there are not a lot of people that have used NOS extensively on this site. I love juice and have hooked it up and ran it on many cars from 4 cylinder cavaliers to full size trucks to 500HP fogger kits on stroked small blocks.
The biggest misnomer about NOS is that it will blow up you engine. This can be true if you use it inaccurately, but it is due to the fact that the engine is leaned out and then the piston, spark plug, head gasket, cylinder head becomes the fuel for the combustion resulting in melt down.
The thing to remember about engines is that they are just very intracate air pumps. So the more air(oxygen) you can put into the engine the more power it will make. The only thing is you have to make sure and supply sufficient fuel to keep the Air/Fuel ratio in a safe range. NOS does exactly the same thing that a turbo or supercharger does, it adds more air (oxygen) to the engine, it just does it by adding an oxygen rich fuel, rather than by increasing the density of the air to increase the oxygen being delivered.
Regarding the use of a "Dry Kit", which is a NOS system that only delivers NOS, it does not have a seperate solenoid to add additional fuel, this is more beneficial on most port injected vehicles than a "Wet Kit" which delivers fuel/nitrous mixture. The reason for this is that the intake manifold on a port injected vehicle is not designed for a liquid (even atomized) mixture flow. What can result is fuel droplets puddling on the walls of the intake resulting in a lean mixture, typically on certain cylinder that are furthest from the throttle body opening. This also is usually only an issue on higher HP levels, 175+, but can be an issue on lower HP levels if the manifold design contibutes to it, cylinders 5 and 7 and the Ford Mustang 5.0 for instance.
A dry kit basically uses the cars own fuel system and electronics to supply the extra fuel that is required to keep the A/F in line when spraying the car. The way this works is that when you insert the dry nozzle BEFORE the MAF meter, the extreme temp drop created by the NOS going from a liquid to gaseous state chills the MAF andsend the computer into "Cold Start Mode" which result in a change of the pulse width of the injector and allows more fuel to be injected. The additional benefit to this is that before the NOS gets there the extra fuel is already there so the lean fuel mixture issue is eliminated.
The Dry Kit does have it's limitations though, which is the stock fuel system of the vehicle. A few examples of safe set ups we have determined are:
WS-6 LS1 trans am, 175 HP, Saleen mustang, 4.6 version, 175HP, Cavalier 2.0 75HP, Chevy Z-71 Pickup, the 350 version, 125HP. obviously none of these are Audi's, as I have only recently become an Audi Fanatic and have not yet installed a kit on my A-4, however, the principal is the same, you need to add an A/F guage directly after the exhaust manifold and start low, say 50HP and go up from there.
One other thing I would like to add, if you are using a Wet Kit, I would recommend getting a hobbs pressure switch if you are using a simple 2 solenoid system. Judging from the photos in this post, that NOS bottle looks like the old style that NOS got rid of back in the late 90's, so I'm not sure if the system was a used kit or not. NOS systems typically include a hobbs pressure switch, which is installed in the fuel supply line, this way if the pressure drops below the specified level, it cuts the system ground to cut the solenoids until the pressure returns, which keeps your car from going lean and blowing a head gasket or eating a plug or worse a head or piston.
There are lots more things regarding NOS that I could go into, there are other mechanical ways to boost fule pressue, kits for additional fuel pumps/boost pumps. There are timing adjustment issues that need to be addressed with the proper electronics/programming. I cannot write a book, this is long enough, but if anyone has any other questions let me know. Hope this helps.
Based on some of the posts I have read, it looks like there are not a lot of people that have used NOS extensively on this site. I love juice and have hooked it up and ran it on many cars from 4 cylinder cavaliers to full size trucks to 500HP fogger kits on stroked small blocks.
The biggest misnomer about NOS is that it will blow up you engine. This can be true if you use it inaccurately, but it is due to the fact that the engine is leaned out and then the piston, spark plug, head gasket, cylinder head becomes the fuel for the combustion resulting in melt down.
The thing to remember about engines is that they are just very intracate air pumps. So the more air(oxygen) you can put into the engine the more power it will make. The only thing is you have to make sure and supply sufficient fuel to keep the Air/Fuel ratio in a safe range. NOS does exactly the same thing that a turbo or supercharger does, it adds more air (oxygen) to the engine, it just does it by adding an oxygen rich fuel, rather than by increasing the density of the air to increase the oxygen being delivered.
Regarding the use of a "Dry Kit", which is a NOS system that only delivers NOS, it does not have a seperate solenoid to add additional fuel, this is more beneficial on most port injected vehicles than a "Wet Kit" which delivers fuel/nitrous mixture. The reason for this is that the intake manifold on a port injected vehicle is not designed for a liquid (even atomized) mixture flow. What can result is fuel droplets puddling on the walls of the intake resulting in a lean mixture, typically on certain cylinder that are furthest from the throttle body opening. This also is usually only an issue on higher HP levels, 175+, but can be an issue on lower HP levels if the manifold design contibutes to it, cylinders 5 and 7 and the Ford Mustang 5.0 for instance.
A dry kit basically uses the cars own fuel system and electronics to supply the extra fuel that is required to keep the A/F in line when spraying the car. The way this works is that when you insert the dry nozzle BEFORE the MAF meter, the extreme temp drop created by the NOS going from a liquid to gaseous state chills the MAF andsend the computer into "Cold Start Mode" which result in a change of the pulse width of the injector and allows more fuel to be injected. The additional benefit to this is that before the NOS gets there the extra fuel is already there so the lean fuel mixture issue is eliminated.
The Dry Kit does have it's limitations though, which is the stock fuel system of the vehicle. A few examples of safe set ups we have determined are:
WS-6 LS1 trans am, 175 HP, Saleen mustang, 4.6 version, 175HP, Cavalier 2.0 75HP, Chevy Z-71 Pickup, the 350 version, 125HP. obviously none of these are Audi's, as I have only recently become an Audi Fanatic and have not yet installed a kit on my A-4, however, the principal is the same, you need to add an A/F guage directly after the exhaust manifold and start low, say 50HP and go up from there.
One other thing I would like to add, if you are using a Wet Kit, I would recommend getting a hobbs pressure switch if you are using a simple 2 solenoid system. Judging from the photos in this post, that NOS bottle looks like the old style that NOS got rid of back in the late 90's, so I'm not sure if the system was a used kit or not. NOS systems typically include a hobbs pressure switch, which is installed in the fuel supply line, this way if the pressure drops below the specified level, it cuts the system ground to cut the solenoids until the pressure returns, which keeps your car from going lean and blowing a head gasket or eating a plug or worse a head or piston.
There are lots more things regarding NOS that I could go into, there are other mechanical ways to boost fule pressue, kits for additional fuel pumps/boost pumps. There are timing adjustment issues that need to be addressed with the proper electronics/programming. I cannot write a book, this is long enough, but if anyone has any other questions let me know. Hope this helps.
i finished all the wiring today. went to get my bottle filled, and it leaked. i needa wait until it looses all pressure then I'm guna unthread it and seal it better and get it filled again. non the less we tried the nos with the small bottle leak, it seemed sputtery, the power, not the engine itself. My guess is that the fuel jet needs to be reduced a minute amount, or that the bottle siphon is either positioned wrong, or just the leak... but when it didn't sputter it was a blast
.so theres bugs too work out, but the purge is fun
. it comes out in the middle of the Audi rings and shoots a little up wards, ill take pics tmrw. ill be messing around with it tmrw to get everything running correctly, more updates then.
