Odd Oil Problems. Need Help
Thread Starter
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1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 18
Odd Oil Problems. Need Help
Hey guys, I just got my 97 audi 1.8t Non Quattro and It is having some problems that I need help with. I am on a budget so taking it to the dealer at the moment will be difficult.
Basically I get Oil Warnings that say that I need to shut off the enging and check the oil. This car had an oil change 1 week ago and has the proper level currently. Now when I look into the engine through the oil fill cap, It appears very sludgy. I can scrape out gunk with a screwdriver. Keep in mind that there is remnents of good fresh oil too.
To add to the madness, when the car is cold, I get a loud ticking noise but it goes away once it warms up. So could the engine have bad oild flow through the the top of where the head cover is? Is this something that running engine cleaner through it may help?
Thanks Guys!
P.S. I know I may be in for trouble with this one but It was basically free so I takes what I can gets
Basically I get Oil Warnings that say that I need to shut off the enging and check the oil. This car had an oil change 1 week ago and has the proper level currently. Now when I look into the engine through the oil fill cap, It appears very sludgy. I can scrape out gunk with a screwdriver. Keep in mind that there is remnents of good fresh oil too.
To add to the madness, when the car is cold, I get a loud ticking noise but it goes away once it warms up. So could the engine have bad oild flow through the the top of where the head cover is? Is this something that running engine cleaner through it may help?
Thanks Guys!
P.S. I know I may be in for trouble with this one but It was basically free so I takes what I can gets
Thread Starter
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1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 18
RE: Odd Oil Problems. Need Help
Well, this car has had problem after problem but with all the engine work done in the last year you would think it would start being ok.
So I found this in anouther post about the same problem.
I do have the ticking and the sludge so Im sure its not getting enough oil to the top.Does anyone advise this? It sounds like its worth an attempt but I don't want to blow my engine apart either!
Im about to drive it about 150 miles too. Thinks it's safe enought?
So I found this in anouther post about the same problem.
I think it's just a faulty oil switch ($15) and about 10 mins to replace if you have a 22 or 23mm ring spanner. I WOULD DO THIS FIRST
Oil sludge will create a loss of oil at the top end which will make the lifters go tap tap tap tap tap. If you have no noise then I will bet my left one that it's a faulty oil switch.
BUT
if it doesn't work then read below and try this (something I posted to someone else)
If you have a thick oil in you motor anything over a 15w then you could experience problems if you live in a really really really cold place. To give you a rough idea, I use a 15w mineral based oil at 10 degrees celsius so I really doubt it will be that.
I can recommend what I did to mine to flush all the **** out, and although everyone will disagree, it does work.
1, go buy a bottle of kerosene, which is 100% hydrocarbons and pour 100ml per 1000ml of oil (I dont know the conversion sorry) in the top of your engine when cold (where you put the oil).
2, let it run for 10-15 minutes until hot always watch for the oil light and listen for any bad noises
3, let the engine sit for an hour or two (important) & then drain oil into a CLEAN container while your on even ground, slightly tilted to the left & forward if you can but flat is ok. Replace oil filter with a genuine oil filter and a 10w or 15w oil. That will get rid of ANY sludge that may have built up.
4, check your drained oil and look for chunkies.
5, refill with 10w or 15w oil & a genuine Audi Oil Filter
Remember your oil light only comes on when the pressure is really really low or your switch has **** itself.
Oil sludge will create a loss of oil at the top end which will make the lifters go tap tap tap tap tap. If you have no noise then I will bet my left one that it's a faulty oil switch.
BUT
if it doesn't work then read below and try this (something I posted to someone else)
If you have a thick oil in you motor anything over a 15w then you could experience problems if you live in a really really really cold place. To give you a rough idea, I use a 15w mineral based oil at 10 degrees celsius so I really doubt it will be that.
I can recommend what I did to mine to flush all the **** out, and although everyone will disagree, it does work.
1, go buy a bottle of kerosene, which is 100% hydrocarbons and pour 100ml per 1000ml of oil (I dont know the conversion sorry) in the top of your engine when cold (where you put the oil).
2, let it run for 10-15 minutes until hot always watch for the oil light and listen for any bad noises
3, let the engine sit for an hour or two (important) & then drain oil into a CLEAN container while your on even ground, slightly tilted to the left & forward if you can but flat is ok. Replace oil filter with a genuine oil filter and a 10w or 15w oil. That will get rid of ANY sludge that may have built up.
4, check your drained oil and look for chunkies.
5, refill with 10w or 15w oil & a genuine Audi Oil Filter
Remember your oil light only comes on when the pressure is really really low or your switch has **** itself.
Im about to drive it about 150 miles too. Thinks it's safe enought?
4th Gear
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 4,354
RE: Odd Oil Problems. Need Help
Sounds like the engine is sludged. The tapping is the top of the engine not getting oil.
If the oil pressure light is on, I would not suggest driving it. If it is coming on intermittently, there are some threads here about people flushing the engine and getting oil pressure back. the usual culprit is sludge blocking the screen on the oil pump pickup.
Some places (eg Jiffy lube (I shudder to suggest this) can do a back flow engine flush. You can try that and let us know if it works. it could dissolve enough sludge off the pickup screen to work.
Otherwise, the alternative is to have a mechanic drop the pan and replace the oil pump and pickup. This is not inexpensive but cheaper than having your engine go.
After than make sure you use only synthetic oil, the oversized OEM filter and change them every 5K miles.
If the oil pressure light is on, I would not suggest driving it. If it is coming on intermittently, there are some threads here about people flushing the engine and getting oil pressure back. the usual culprit is sludge blocking the screen on the oil pump pickup.
Some places (eg Jiffy lube (I shudder to suggest this) can do a back flow engine flush. You can try that and let us know if it works. it could dissolve enough sludge off the pickup screen to work.
Otherwise, the alternative is to have a mechanic drop the pan and replace the oil pump and pickup. This is not inexpensive but cheaper than having your engine go.
After than make sure you use only synthetic oil, the oversized OEM filter and change them every 5K miles.
Thread Starter
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1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 18
RE: Odd Oil Problems. Need Help
Lol. Im stuck in Yakima, WA at the moment and there is no Jiffy lube here to speak of but I will try to find someone locally to do it. I have to drive it back to seattle tomorrow regardless but Hopefully I can find someone and that will work.
Thanks!
Anyone else with suggestions?
Thanks!
Anyone else with suggestions?
Thread Starter
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1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 18
RE: Odd Oil Problems. Need Help
Another Question. I found the oil pump online for like $130. If the flush does not work that well, Is this something fairly easy to replace once the oil is drained and the pan is off?
Thanks!
Thanks!
4th Gear
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 4,354
RE: Odd Oil Problems. Need Help
If you are stuck in Yakima, you very unfortunate indeed. My Ex is visiting there. Watch out for a mad blond B*TCH 
.
I would be very reluctant to drive the car if the oil light is on. Be aware that a solid red oil pressure light is bad news. If it starts flashing on and off rapidly immediately shut the engine off and have it towed. Flashing red means that the oil pressure is ZERO and your engine will sieze.
Dropping the oil pan on these cars requires a fair amount of work. You need to lift the engine to access the front of the oil pan. Once the pan is off the pump is easy to replace. It is getting the pan off that is the big job.
.I would be very reluctant to drive the car if the oil light is on. Be aware that a solid red oil pressure light is bad news. If it starts flashing on and off rapidly immediately shut the engine off and have it towed. Flashing red means that the oil pressure is ZERO and your engine will sieze.
Dropping the oil pan on these cars requires a fair amount of work. You need to lift the engine to access the front of the oil pan. Once the pan is off the pump is easy to replace. It is getting the pan off that is the big job.
Thread Starter
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1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 18
RE: Odd Oil Problems. Need Help
Good ol' Yakima!
My buddy has a lift and I can potentially do it at his place but do you know how high I have to lift it? Does it have to be disconnected from the transmission as well?
My buddy has a lift and I can potentially do it at his place but do you know how high I have to lift it? Does it have to be disconnected from the transmission as well?
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