You may have a bad cam( a flat spot on one of the lobes) this would cause it to appear as a misfire, a bad coil. I had this issue on cylinder 5 of a 3.0. Discovered after 3 sets of coils and 160,000mi of driving.

 

I have an 06 Audi A4, 2.0T and I had my coils replaced about 6 months ago by what I view as an unfit mechanic but I just got P0301 again on my car. It seems to shift fine under about 2500 rpm but if you need to give it more gas, it struggles to shift and a couple of times the check engine light has been blinking. Does cold weather affect the coils? Is there any way it was a fluke and I can still drive with it, or should I just replace the first coil? Should I replace all of them again? Which coil is 1? I am ready to get rid of the car because this stuff seems to happen a lot. Any help would be greatly appreciated...

 

Anyone with check engine light that reads 171 too lean bank 1
Other codes came up i put new o2 sensor and now just 171 code
Could it be because the previous owner put a cone shaped air filter

 

Your o2 sensor(if I recall the broadrange post catalytic O2 sensor) is alerting that you have a lean condition in your fuel trim. In other words, your Air to Fuel Ratio is out of specified parameter. Since you are lean you have too much air and the ECU has to compensate by adding more fuel than normal. Running lean is not a good thing and requires attention.

Your fuel economy is negatively impacted by this.

The three things that are always factors in a case like yours is fuel, air, and spark. You need to get access to someone with a late version of vagcom and run some logs to check the related measuring blocks. That should get you a closer idea of where to look. Try the other forums, you might be able to get help locally by someone with one.

And no, the cone filter won't affect your engine in this manner. They don't add horsepower either.

 

Hey i just got my ignition coil and spark plugs replaced and my check engine light came on a few days later. What does that tell me?

 

Without anything else to go off of, you need to get your car scanned or diagnosed. This is being serious.

 

I have the same problem with my 05 A4 1.8. When I step on the gas it would have a little trouble to shift at high rpm and the cel would blink. Once it finally evened out the light would stay steady and code out at #2 and 4 cyl misfire. I was told to try flashing the ECM. Any other idea's?

 

Hi everyone
I bought an salvage Audi, and the engine light is on , please if you can help me somehow . I took it to dealer they told me turbo needs to be replaced , I bought a used turbo and replaced it , same problem light is on. I changed some sensors on the engine and turbo sensor same issue light is on , I took it to German car specialist he checked the car for 20 days , he orders stuff and changed them eventually he said I cant fix it I am so shameful that I cant find the problem, please if anyone had any info help me out. if you need any info please let me know if you know someone who can fix also please let me know.
thank you everyone and thanks for this perfect website.


Alen.

 

Ok, here goes. I'm hoping for some ideas. I bought an 03 A4 Quattro a month or so ago. I love the car, but the dealer was a bit shady. It had 125k on the clock, and some service records. The car ran fine. I knew when I bought it I'd be putting a timing belt, water pump, etc kit on it right away. It threw a code 122 miles after I bought it, misfire cyl 6. So I got a real good tune up on it, and a full syn oil change. Same code came back in 22 miles. Took it in and did the timing belt stuff, and threw a coil on 6. ( Looked at "old" parts, nearly new condition so that was a wasted 1750 bucks, but oh well.) Drove the stupid thing 22 miles, threw a misfire cyl 6 code AGAIN. What could be next in line for causing a misfire on 6? And, how can I check my cat converter myself for blockage? Is it possible even?


My car runs out nice. Nice nice. A little rough idle, but just because I'm listening and picky probably..... where's my next move?


Thanks in advance for any help you can throw my way.

 

Salvaged auto, but that's the past now.

I'd get the car scanned with someone that has a vagcom or the dealership.
Find out what codes are present. Then start from there. If you can find out from the euro specialist if he still has any diagnostic codes on file. Also ask what he used to scan the car with, a regular OBD-II scan tool or a vagcom.

Come back here with the list as detailed as possible of what he did(attempted repairs) as well.