About 4 months ago just before warantee expired on my 2001 A5 Cab 2.0 TFSI they changed the rings on my engine because I had one of the cars that was consuming excess oil, 1 quart every 3500 miles or so.
Now I had the engine light come on so I pulled out the vagcom and got the following. I'm thinking they failed to tighten something or got something in the PCV valve or something else. The car still has the issue where acceleration sometimes stalls out around 2600 rpm it has had since the first couple months.

Should this be under warantee, I think so obviously as car has only 42K miles and is always garaged so its a bit much to think something has disintegrated.

I have a service scheduled to have them tell me what they would do but if its like replacing a PCV valve that is simple enough to do myself.

Any ideas about what else it could be or if it really is likely its unrelated. Does this normally happen at 5yrs/42K miles?

Vag-com Relevant section below, rest is no fault found

Also do I read this right that the issue is a one off? and it has not happened since.

If so can I just clear it and wait to see if it happens again?

Also Fuel Level is low, but not sure what that means, could it be that when I go close to running out or during a stall moment it triggered all this just once?

Chassis Type: FH (8T0)
Scan: 01 02 03 05 06 08 09 10 13 15 16 17 19 26 36 3C 42 46 47 52
53 55 56 5F 62 6C 72

Mileage: 68690km-42681miles

01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010

>>> shortened this to 02...72-All Status: OK 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine (0-----CAEB) Labels: 06H-907-115-CAB.clb
Part No SW: 8K2 907 115 AG HW: 8K2 907 115 D
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TF H18 0002
Revision: E1H18---
Coding: 011C010A290F0260
Shop #: WSC 07109 444 105095
ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM20TFS0118K2907115AG 001002
ROD: EV_ECM20TFS0118K2907115AG.rod
VCID: 74EDD7EADFB3E99E65-8020

4 Faults Found:
5646 - Leak in Air Intake System
P2279 00 [237] - -
MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 68509 km
Date: 2016.01.14
Time: 18:12:04

4007 - Idle Control System RPM
P0507 00 [104] - Higher than Expected.
Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 4
Mileage: 68527 km
Date: 2016.01.14
Time: 19:15:05

4105 - Bank 1; System too Lean at Idle
P2187 00 [237] - -
MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 68508 km
Date: 2016.01.14
Time: 18:09:42

4201 - Fuel Level too Low
P1250 00 [097] - -
Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:

Readiness: 0000 0000

 

Just from previous experience dealing with a vacuum leak, or "Air Leak" there can be several items to look for. If there is a vacuum leak that is causing an issue, a couple VERY simple things you can do to start off.
1. Watch your RPMs once the car is started, and then watch to see if the RPMs drop down to a "normal" idle level (this depends on your engine type as well). Vacuum leaks will often cause your RPMs to stay higher, even at a standing idle.

2. Pop the hood, and visibly inspect any of the plumbing that IS or attaches to your intake, vacuum hoses, as well as items such as your throttle body (if you can get to it) Some times you will hear a hissing, or whisping of air where there's an air leak.

As for Idle Air Control Valves, or items of the like. Those are a little more difficult to check on your own, unless you know the codes.

As for the car stalling around 2500 RPM, it seems odd that it would only happen at this specific RPM. Also, is the car standing still when this happens, or is it under load (are you driving when it happens). OR Both?

Some cars will act very odd with a vacuum leak, or something of the sort. The ECU will sense both symptoms of "lack of air", as well as "lack of fuel". The ECU will then try to "fix" what it is seeing by means of advancing or retarding the timing to adjust or compensate.

My best words of wisdom are this. If you've recently had work done on the car by the dealership, take it back to their service dept and describe everything you're experiencing. If you have codes, provide them as well. A reputable shop will at the very least stand behind their own work. If they are not willing to stand behind the replacement parts.

Self diagnosis is great for relaying info to a mechanic. Keep in mind, if you take your car to them and they claim to have found an issue. Ask as many questions as you can. What caused it, how severe is it, can it be repaired, if so have them itemize the cost for parts/labor, and time. If it is something you feel comfortable tackling on your own, and you won't void any type of warranty that was provided to you. By all means, take care of it.

Either way, it seems you have a LOT of doubt in multiple venues that a dealer's service department gets paid to answer to you.

Also, if this particular forum is not quick enough in response. Make it a point to put some effort into caring for your car. Cars, much like women....do not do well with age and require a LOT of maintenance! And the longer you let one sit without paying them the proper attention, they WILL get worse.