ok. so awhile back i had a leaky oil cooler that introduced oil to my coolant.the car died shortly after an oil up and gas trip.the car died as i was pulling into the parking spot.weird? SO....today i bought the oil cooler/ o-ring/g12/2x seafoam/ 2 purolator filters(all they had)/motorflush.

i change out the oil cooler with minimal problems. the clamps are the real enemy!. fill her up with oil. the fill coolant with water(i drained it and oil beforehand). get in car and try to start.as soon as i applied the battery something starts humming or buzzing. is this normal? fuel pump? ok so i get one quick cel at turning the key(i know about my bad cats).the car cranks kind of quick but just will not catch. i sprayed starter fluid in the intake and it back fire and caught fire to the air filter.also when i apply the pedal the car make a different kind of noise while cranking?????? like its trying harder like a faint thump almost.
should i run compression tests?how can i check the fuel coming to the motor?

i was in a rush so i couldnt check plugs but i assumed from the fireball that came out the intake my spark and compression are ok?

does anyone have a clue what kind of trouble i am in. the car has not been driven since mid january.. so could bad gas be a factor? i added heet to it before i started on the oil cooler and added maybe a 1/4 of a gallon leftovers from the lawn mower? PLEASE HELP... i am really not thrilled about buying 100's of dollars worth of sensors...


PLEASE SAVE ANY INSULTS IVE KNOWN IM AN IDIOT WAY BEFORE I CAME HERE..

thanks guys!!

 

Are you sure that the coolant got into the oil through the oil cooler and not through the head? The fact that the engine cranks quickly would indicate no compression. Also, coolant in the oil from the oil cooler would not cause the engine to stall unless the engine froze from lack of lubrication or if this is a C5 generation the valve tensioners failed because they were filled with coolant. The fact that your engine suddenly stopped could have been caused by a failed timing belt. If the valve timing is off and the valves are bent you would have poor compression and starter fluid would probably backfire out the intake because the valve would be open when the plug fires.

Bad gas would not be a factor after just three months.

Here is what you need to do.

Remove the timing belt cover and take a look at what is underneath, does the belt, pulleys and tensioner all look OK? Is there a pile of rubber bits down by the crank pulley from a failing belt? If you rotate the engine to TDC (there is a mark on the crank pulley) do the elongated brackets locking brackets on the cam pulleys line up horizontally (they should if the valve timing is correct)?

Also pull the plugs and smell them. You do not want to smell coolant. Look in the cylinders with a flash light and manually turn over the engine and see what the tops of the pistons look like. You do not want to see oil or coolant, either one means the heads have to come off.

If everything looks good, turn over then engine a couple of revolutions by hand and listen/feel what is going on. If you feel abnormal resistance that is bad, the engine should turn easily with all of the plugs out. If you get this far and you do not see any problems, do a compression test.

Good luck.

 

I'm curious:
how can you take a good look at the cylinders, without taking the heads off?
How much can you see through the spark plug opening(s)?

 

That humming noise that you are referring to is the car going through the throttle body calibration. You should let it finish before starting the car. Anyways, I would disconnect the battery and wait a few minute. Reconnect and wait until the buzzing noise goes away. I remember hearing 3 minutes somewhere, but I just wait until the noise goes away.

 

Oh, a clarification... Connect the battery, turn the key to on position without starting the car. Then wait until the noise goes away.

 

If there is a lot of liquid in the cylinders the tops of the pistons will be black and wet. You can see enough through the spark plug holes to make this determination. Ideally you could borrow or buy a borescope, then you could get a very good view.

 

The first test I suggest is to check the compression. This will tell you if the engine is timed and has compression. If this test is okay, the timing belt is functioning. Then you can moce on the checking ignition and fuel systems for spark and fuel pressure.

 

thanks for all the suggestions!!

ok im pretty sure the belt is fine i pulled on all the belts and they are all nice and tight. i didnt start the car immediately while it was making the noise just curious if it was the fuel pump or not. sorry for not being informative this is on a 99 2.8 a6..i was thinking that maybe since the battery had died a few times(i would sit in it and cry to the radio lol) that maybe the battery was it. but it cranks pretty good.