PLEASE ADVISE!

Last year in August I purchased a 2003 2.7T A6, 6 Spd Manual Trans. and within4 months had to replace the clutch...it was FRIED. I was broke at the time, so went with a local mechanic who suggested installing a Luk clutch kit with a new dual-mass flywheel. Total for parts and labor: appx $1600. Less than a year and 18,000 miles later, the clutch started slipping (RPM spikes when stepping on gas too fast, etc.) ANYWAY, thinking it's a defect, I brought it in to the same guy. I ok'd him for the labor to remove the transmission and check out the clutch...WOW, that thing was toast, and the flywheel had the same heat-warped spots on it that I witnessed last year. He told me that he DID NOT recommend an OEM clutch (Luk or Sachs). Also, he gave me the option of bringing in my own parts for him to install, and told me he'd charge me for just 7 hours of labor. Here's my question:

WHAT'S THE CLUTCH I SHOULD CHOOSE?

--Is this a good time to upgrade to Stage 2 or 3? And what are the reliable brands out there?
--Would the RS4 standard clutch be advisable? (It uses the same organic material that's found in OEM--I've heard of Kevlar clutches).
--How will a Stage 2 or 3 change everyday drivability?

Here are the brands I've heard of that actually have clutch upgrades for my '03 2.7T. Any opinions?
-Clutchmasters
-AWE
-VAST

Oh yeah, should I completely rule out Ebay? There's a deal too good to be true: A complete Stage 3 clutch kit AND lightweight flywheel for $649. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/99-05...spagenameZWDVW

My car's sick...I want it back from the shop but can't have them go ahead without more knowledge. Any advice would help.

Thanks,

Louie

 

Identical car - similar experience. I chipped my A6 at 79k and the clutch starting slipping around 88k and I replaced at 89k. The shop that does my work recommended an AWE Stage 2 and I opted for the lightweight flywheel, as that had to be replaced as well. Parts alone werearound $1500. I also had all the drive train fluids replaced at the same time: transmission, transfer case, and rear differential.

I'm at 105k now with no problems. No difference in pedal pressure or throw. I have noticed some harmonic vibration from the flywheel when I accelerate in too high a gear at low speed, but AWE confirmed that was normal. After the installation the shop owner (who owned a built S6) told he he could tell the car reved noticeably quicker with the lightweight flywheel. I think the OEM weighed around 40 lbs and the lightweight was 15-19. I weighed the OEM on a bathroom scale with/without me.

Of course my daughter, who is learning to drive, managed to slip the clutch two times at 6000 rpm. But that appears to have caused no problems.

 

One thing you need to remember is that new clutches require a mandatorybreak in period, meaning easy acceleration for 450 to 500 miles, preferred city stop and go traffic. If you mash the accelerator and it slips just once, you are screwed and so is your warranty. I just put a Spec stage II clutch and single mass lightweight aluminum flywheel on my 2.7T and it is incredible. Spec clutches are great for Quattro cars.The onlydownside from a single mass aluminum flywheel is the chatter that comes along with it. They do not absorb shock as well as the dual mass. My throttle response is incredible with it though! You can use a factory dual mass flywheel with the spec clutch too.

Break in is critical!!!!

OOOO

 

Thanks for the replies...just wanted to make sure one last time before placing an order with AWE: how much different is it with the l/w flywheel? Is there lots to sacrifice in terms of comfort? You mentioned vibrations... And how much faster is the pick-up with the l/w flywheel?

Thanks,

Louie