I'm looking at a 1997 A6 2.8 Quattro approx 165K miles. The girl who owns it was driving on the highway and overheated it, towed it home and let it sit there. I'm not sure how long ago this was, but inside of a year ago. The car now just cranks and cranks, codes are:

P0401
P1423
P1411
P0136

I'm hoping it has just lost the water pump, but I am seeing oily dampness on the firewall area, the oil in the crankcase seems clean.

Anyone have any insight here? Thanks for you help!

 

P0401 insufficient EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) flow.
P1423 Secondary Air Injection Bank 1 Flow Too Low
P1411 indicates Secondary Air not detected.
P0136 Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank1, Sensor2)

Sounds like the harness and vac lines behind bank 1 are baked. The heat may have fried the wires and cooked the vac lines going to the secondary air and down to the No 2 sensor on bank 1. I bet if you hook it to a Vag-Com you'll get even more codes than that.

I would not attempt to start the vehicle!

Check the timing belt and water pump for damage. It may need to be replaced before running. If it is off time you risk bending valves.If the pump seizes and throws the belt you will bend the valves.

You can hand crank the engine to see if it turns over you may already know if it has been cranked already.

You need to determine if the heads are good and no valves have bent.

If it got too hot it may have also cooked the valve seals so your basically rebuilding the heads there.

Ask her if she drove it all the way or if it just died on her? Did it sound like a diesel?

This car should be free because It could cost a fortune to repair. Not to mention all the problems she had to begin with! It's only worth $3-4K running in good condition.

 

Sounds like a good parts car. Not worth fixing up unless you are bored and have some extra cash and want to rebuild an engine.

 

Is bank 1 drivers side? I did notice some damaged stuff (lines) behind that side. I did turn it over, the valves are not hitting the pistons. Do we think a timing belt water pump job fixes the car? She wants $500 for it.

 

What is causing it not to start? Vac leaks? Fried wires? I'd rather get it started to make sure it runs before I buy a bunch of parts, if possible

 

P0401 may be due to the EGR sensor wire being fried (it mounts under the intake) - that would be Bank 2 area
P0136 - Bank 1 Sensor 2 is the post CAT O2 sensor - passenger side. Wire could have been fried as well, as Jack said.
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Only the 4 wheels are worth at least $ 250, and I bet you can get rid of them easily/fast on Ebay...
If the valves are not damaged at all, and the car is in better than decent shape otherwise (interior/exterior), then I would buy that car for $ 500.
If it turns out you cannot fix it, you can quintuple (at least) your purchase money from parting it out, even though it may require some time.
Anyway, I have a general theory about women and driving, but I would sound really sexist writing it down...

 

$500 is a resonable price. If you can't get it to run (TB may do the job but I would expect some electronic to be involved), you can sell parts off of it to recoup your investment. You have nothing to lose in this deal (as long as you are willing to go to the trouble of selling parts if you have to).

Good luck,

Bob

 

Thanks for the input. Anyone have any idea what could be stopping it from running? I have the same theory about women voting...

 

I also have a 94 100CS Q wagon with a good engine. Anyone have any idea if it would fit in the 97 A6?

Thanks

 

No go on the engine swap These are not Chevy's

You need to either jump into this thing with money or get away from it.

Sorry there is no cheap fix. If you get it to start and the Timing belt falls off the bad water pump you will destroy the valves. What sense would that make.

If I was to purchase this car I would expect to drop 4K min in parts into it easily. And I would not attempt to start it until I replaced all the parts I know were bad Like the TB and Water pump etc... At least 1K to see it run
If you already own the tools.

$$$ to repair burnt wires and melted seals, possibly valve seals/head gaskets
$$$ for the timing belt job (the reason it's in it's current condition)
$$$ to repair all the B.S. that was wrong before and that alone could be $$$
god forbid the heads are warped or that transmission doesn't shift well when you finally get it running.

Generally when you hear someone is performing extensive work on their Audi on this forum it's because we already know the rest of the car is sound. You are not in that position. Walk away, part it out, or plan for it to be a fun project car. But not a cheap commuter.