Kimi, you don't need to, and shouldn't keep the torque on the tensioner pulley. FYI, I looked up the torque setting and it should be 15Nm. So make sure to lock the crank, loosen the cam gears, and break the gears loosen from the cam using pullers. Cam gears should spin freely. Place the cam lock bar on, and torque the tensioner pulley to 15 Nm. Then lock the cam gears back up. Hope it works out for you this time.

 

the car was back in service position. the timing belt was removed and replace as advice. timing was establiched.a torgue of aprox 15nm was preloaded and maintained on the tensioner as the cam gears where tightened. 3hrs later the car was test driven as P1337 failed to resolve. this time grounded instead of locked in +ve. what should i do next? the cam sensor has been changed

 

Did you reset the code and it came back? Or were you just waiting for it to clear on its own? I would clear it first and see if it comes back.

I was talking to a friend of min who wrenches on cars all day. If the code(s) come back at this point. he had 2 suggestions.

1. Cam position sensor pick up is mounted on the cam. It is circular metal plate with a notch on it that can be seen once you remove the cam position sensor. It is made of flimsy sheet metal and has a key/tab that sets into the cam. If for some reasonthe tabis shifted, it can throw the code; however, he says it is very rare.

2. It maybe the actual wiring. Troubleshooting wiring problem is not easy. This maybe the time that you may bite the bullet and give into a dealer or a reputable german shop.

I hope it works out.

 

what does it indicate, if the same code p1337 is translated as short to ground sometimes and returns as short to +ve when batery is disconnected and reconected? thanx again hxg for your contineus support.

 

Do you mean it shows up as P1338?

 

no it still p1337. short to ground. i am geting the vagcom.im quite nervous. its a toy im not too familia with. not sure how im going to employ it other than to try to reset the code.im getting the free version what do you think?

 

Although it is limited, it is worth it. I have the shareware version as well. You can recode stuff too. You can also upgrade to a full version for $99.

 

thanx hxg. i will keep you updated

 

hello! just wondering.. when you do this,how do you know if the cam(s) are in the ringht position.. ? do i need to open the top and see if the chain is in the right position?
i changed the timingbelt last week and i have one problem..
scanned my car with wag-com and this is the code..

1 Fault Found:
17746 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) Open or Short to Plus
P1338 - 35-00 - -

tnx for the help! c",)

 

Unless you have a bad cam tensioner, it is unlikely that your cam chain jumped. So I really doubt that you have to open the valve cover to check the cam alignment. As for checking the correct location, you use the crank lock to lock the crank at top dead center. Visually, your timing mark on the crank pulley, which is located around 1 o'clock position, should line up with the mark on the block. Once the crank is on TDC, then you should be able to place the cam lock bar. If I remember correctly, once the cams are lined up, then you should see larger holes on the cams pointing toward the center of the engine. Place the cam locking tool. If the crank pin in placed correctly, and cam lock bar is on, then all of your timing components are aligned correctly.

Loosen the cam gears using a gear pulley of some sort. Gears should spin freely. Place the timing belt. Then torque the timing belt tensioner to 15Nm. I tensioned it once, took the tension off and tensioned it again just to get the tensioner moving. Once tensioned, tighten the cam gears and that should be it.

Anyways, did you replace the timing belt tensioner when you replaced the belt?