Audi A6 The mid-sized Audi A6 model offers more room to the driver and passengers over the A4 line.

'96 A6 Interfered With!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jan 26, 2010 | 07:44 PM
  #71  
a6hcw's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 517
From:
Default

That is the EGR temperature sensor which screws into the bottom of the intake manifold on the far side from the EGR valve and behind the throttle body. You will need a 14 mm deepwell socket for a 1/4" socket wrench, with a slit cut in the socket for the sensor wires. I used a 3" diameter abrasive cutoff tool to make the slot. You should put antiseize compond on the sensor threads. You should undo the wire ties so that the sensor lead is free and unpluged at the terminal, as this sensor is rather expensive. You will need to remove the throttle body to get the sensor back into it's hole. You should check that the EGR passage has no carbon in it from the EGR valve to the EGR sensor side and that the port at the bottom of the intake manifold is open.
 
Old Jan 26, 2010 | 07:55 PM
  #72  
Midniteoyl's Avatar
4th Gear
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,042
From: Indiana
Default

On th e'96 2.8 it's located on the Driver side...
 
Attached Images  
Old Jan 26, 2010 | 10:44 PM
  #73  
marblehead's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
1st Gear
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 141
Default

THANK YOU both for your invaluable input and wisdom! I'll be sure to let you know how it goes. With the throttle body removed, can the EGR sensor be inserted and tightened with an open ended 14mm or does it set too far inboard? Just curious but certain can notch out a 14mm deep socket. . .
 
Old Jan 27, 2010 | 01:55 AM
  #74  
thiagonezz's Avatar
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1
Default Play mu global

Aewww galera

vamos jogar um jogo global, animado, com otimo grafico e jogabilidade?
Esse jogo e o MU, melhor jogo do planeta, la podemos fazer novas amizades, com pessoas de outros paises, e se divertir^^

corra e registrem-se> http://muonline.webzen.net
Jogue na melhor guild e claro, a Wirewood, so ela fornece a cada dia um up bom,com amigos online.
num percam

!!!!!

s2 golden ^^
 
Old Jan 27, 2010 | 09:46 PM
  #75  
marblehead's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
1st Gear
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 141
Default

Got the sensor in place, removing the throttle body but leaving the throttle cable in tact. I now understand why I need to fabricate a tool to tighten it down! Rather than sacrificing a deep socket, I thought I'd cut down and trim a 14mm closed-ended wrench to fit. Think it'll be easier to cut and notch with my cut-off grinder. All's good and I should have new joy tomorrow. Thanks to you two again for your input! By the way, the sensor ended up located on the passenger side of the intake, just inboard of the throttle body mounting and installs horizontally with the terminal end facing inward. Disconnecting the sensor, I was able to lightly clean it up on the buffing wheel, removing the carbon buildp-up on it.
More to follow. . .
 
Old Jan 27, 2010 | 11:06 PM
  #76  
Midniteoyl's Avatar
4th Gear
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,042
From: Indiana
Default

By the way, the sensor ended up located on the passenger side of the intake, just inboard of the throttle body mounting
Good to know.. hate when the service manual is wrong
 
Old Jan 27, 2010 | 11:52 PM
  #77  
a6hcw's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 517
From:
Default

Don't forget to replace your oil cooler seal when the weather warms up, as this seal ages and becomes brittle and is prone to failure and total loss of oil pressure. Just take off the oil filter, then remove the nut from the nipple, then use a 3/8" internal pipe wrench to remove the nipple. Remove the old seal, then locate the new seal on the tabs on the oil cooler. Then replace the nipple, nut and oil filter. Next, add oil as required.
 
Old Jan 28, 2010 | 12:33 AM
  #78  
Midniteoyl's Avatar
4th Gear
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,042
From: Indiana
Default

That would be an o-ring, correct?
 
Old Jan 28, 2010 | 07:01 PM
  #79  
a6hcw's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 517
From:
Default

The oil cooler seal is an o-ring with two tabs which holds it to the oil cooler. The tabs just make it easier to install. See: http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com...tion=000459717
 
Old Jan 28, 2010 | 09:43 PM
  #80  
marblehead's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
1st Gear
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 141
Default

Joy! Well, mostly. . .Got it all together, no leaks and after about 5" of running, the idle stabilized and she's running smoothly. Man it feels good! Just one emerging problem- I've got a hideous RPM related noise right under the ingition/spark pack on the front, leading me to suspect it's the wasser pumpen macht nicht! No leaks and it's not wobbly but man it's noisy right there. I removed the serpentine belt and fired 'er up briefly and. . . no noise adding to my suspicion that it's the water pump. I know, I know, should've replaced it while I was into the entire job- trying to save cost. So, I'm going to order a new pump, get that oil cooler seal for future installation and a few other small items. But the car's pretty much road worthy at this time and I can't thank you all enough for your priceless input. My rough estimate is that doing this job "on my own" has saved me about $4,000.00! One early estimate for the job at a dealer was $6,000.00!!!! Did the whole thing for about $1,000.00 and really had a whole lot of fun, even in the cold. I'll post a few more pics before signing off. . .Oh, by the way, anobody know what I did with the securing base/bracket for the rear mounting Dzus-type fasteners on the top plastic engine cover? The mounting braket on the ingition pack is in tact but I can't figure out how the rear fasterners are secured. . .Sure is nice to have only cosmetic concerns!!!!
 



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:04 PM.