Um.. thats not the water pump.. the water pump is under the cover and driven by the Timing Belt

What your hearing is the Power Steering Pump.. http://12v.org/engine/index.php?section=cl&view=front ... You'll wanna look into that. Make sure its got enough fluid.

edit; On my car, the front cover attaches to the coil bracket w/allen bolts - 2 ea, and the top cover attaches to the fuel rails w/ dzus - 4 ea.

 

Thanks for you kindness in pointing out what is the obvious to all but me! Duh! I'll check out the fluid level and the intermittent/rpm-based noise makes perfect sense that it's the power steering unit and/or fluid level. Didnt' see a warning on the dash and so it didn't occur to me to even check it. Plus the rack and pinion has not been leaking at all. . .Stand by- maybe it's just gotten noisy because of sitting unused for about 9 months and it'll loosen up as it runs. I've not yet road tested the car and put the steering through its paces either. That's all later today.

 

Jim,
Regarding the engine top cover, do you recall if the rear (closest to the throttle body) attachments (2/4 Dzus Fasteners) is attached to the fuel rail via some bracket extension? I see nothing but "air" under that top cover and those rear pair of Dzus fasteners leading me to think I've misplaced a mounting bracket when I tore down the top end and removed the fuel rail. . .Had the inspiration early this morning to comb through my parts tank in the hopes that for some reason that suspected missing bracket is floating 'round the bottom of that tank. . .

 

I'm embarrassed to report that that hideous noise on the front of the engine was, in fact, due to my oversight and neglect of checking the fluid level of the power steering! Because I tore the thing down so long ago and then in the excitement of the finished job, I overlooked the obvious. . .I think the pump's forgiven me but I'm equally sure that my initial running of the engine without sufficient fluid in the pump didn't do it one bit of good! Thanks again, Jim, for kindly directing me to the power steering fluid. Obivously the top-end job required my disconnecting the power steering hose and therefore losing fluid... In any case, all is well, the car's running great and I'm pleased with the success of the job. Road test tomorrow! Now if I can just figure out how the back Dzus mountings work with the top cover. . .I am suspicious that the mounting bracketry, whatever it is, was left behind at a Denver Audi Dealership when the car was first towed following the breakdown on the road. They partially tore down the top end pieces and put them in the trunk when I declined the repair. I think maybe this one piece, whatever it is, got left behind. . .Anybody got a pic of the mounting method, I'd be grateful. . .Even got the security code for the radio installed!

 

There are four flat head screws which hold the fuel injector rails in place and the two brackets which have the four spring steel fasteners for the top engine cover. You should be able to find a picture at www.vagcat.com , under "engine, covering".

 

These are the brackets/holes...

 

Thanks, Jim, for the pic which has proven to be immensely helpful. I now am very clear that those brackets are either around here someplace or that I somehow inadvertently threw them away. . .Hoping for the former. I'm sure I had them rather that getting left at the dealer and the fuel rail mounting screws are tapered heads to accommodate those mounting brackets. I'll find 'em somehow and somewhere.

Further questions: For as long as I've owned the car, it has shown an episodic "check engine" light, which I've had cancelled at repair shops before but have since just come to live with it. However, at 120,000 miles, I'm also sure that the O2 sensors need replacing, which I'm going to do, leading to a couple of questions:
1. Can any of you recommend a good tool other than a wrench, to successfully remove those O2 sensors? I'm cautious about that job because I know they can break/shear/strip.
2. Also, anybody have a favorite code reader/reset tool for the A6? Hopefully something that's not an arm and a leg. Still have the rear shocks to replace but have the new ones and accompanying kit. I'll probably wait until warmer weather to do that job. . .

In the meantime, I comb my garage for those missing brackets.

Oh, a default question: Anybody have a preferred wrecking yard for bones? Someplace that'll work on-line?

Man, I could've never taken on this job without this forum!

 

The CEL is prolly on for 'EGR Low Flow', a common problem... or, as you think, the O2s.

There are special O2 sockets that have a slit for the wires:





But, I usually make my own with a grinder...

Hit up ebay and look for a guy named 'alpha-bid' and get the OBDII to USB ross-tech cable.. it'll work with the 409 version of ross-tech on your laptop to read the codes...

When your ready to do the struts, look here:
https://www.audiforums.com/forum/sho...ight=blausport

 

You will need an offset oxygen sensor socket on the left side, because of the coolant pipe. I got one from Advanced Auto and had to modify it with a grinder to get it to clear this pipe. Use penetrating oil on the sensor. Put a hose clamp around the tip of the socket to strengthen it, as the slit for the wires weakens the socket. Use a very long breaker bar and some extentions to break the sensor loose.

 

Thanks to you both for the hot tips on the O2 sensor socket and modifications! Logged 50 miles on the shake down run yesterday and it ran great. The only problem and once again, I'm embarrassed to report, is that as I was driving it for the first 10 miles, I noticed a worsening clunking sound from the front of the car, started thinking it was a bad CV joint (was worse/noisier turning left), only to discover what I'd forgotten: I'd taken the front wheels off of the car very early on in the teardown, replaced them but FORGOT to snug them down! Loose wheels on the lugs!!!! All good now and it's running beautifully.
As I turn my attention to other mechanical/cosmetic things, I've a further question for all of you attentive readers: Whagt can be done to tighten up those ol' front seatbelt retractors???? I know all cars develop this problem over time and hate the idea of replacing them, which is likely to be pricey and abhor them flopping around in the car when not used. What have you all done if anything?
Thanks as always. . .