Well, fluid and filter did the trick. Drained the dirty, black factory fill which AUDI said did not need to be changed measured almost exactly 5L. Refill took 5.4L of AUDI O.E.M. brand fluid, after cleaning pan, and replacing filter with new. Audi service finally devulged that temp of trans needed to be 37deg C which is 98.6F. Fluid check is done with engine running, and trans at temp. No fancy analizer needed, just an infared temp gauge. Fill trans level to top of large access plug recessed in bottom of pan. This is actually a tube that rises about 1.75" from pan bottom to determine level. Trans. must be shifted (engine running) in each gear for a few seconds to refill all passages and clutch paks. Final level check is made in PARK with engine running. Once level has been achived, reinstall plug BEFORE SHUTTING OFF ENGINE! Otherwise lots of your new, very expensive fluid will be flowing into your armpit. [sm=badidea.gif] Vehicle must be level, a hoist is a nice item to have in your shop, otherwise 4 good jackstands will do. As the fluid will need to be pumped into trans from the bottom, you will find a small lube pump at most autoparts outlets for under $10 and a short chunk of 5/16" copper tube bent to a hook, to be an indespensible part of this equation.
Transmission now behaves properly at all temps and speeds. Smoother shifts when warm and when cold.
Now THAT should be a charateristic of this fine machine.
BTW That shudder in First and Second on yours (DKLandry) means clutches are slipping. Do not let that continue. Early death of that expensive gearbox WILL BE the result. Try the oil change. Do it yourself for about $140.00 with filter kit off the internet, and fluid from AUDI. Cheap insurance.

 

[sm=smiley25.gif]

What is the web address of the filler kit?

Thanks,

 

Go to www.GermanAutoParts.com or direct to the trans page at http://www.germanautoparts.com/main....p=Transmission
Super service, and quality kit. Kit was about $40. Use a large drain pan when pulling trans pan, as not all fluid will run out of drain plug. Patience is a virtue as fluid will continue to drip from valve body and internals for several hours. Let it drip until done. More old fluid out, the better. Lemme know how it goes.

 

I really don't know that the fluid change solved it all that much, I have seen this post a hundred times on here. Maybe not as extreme as not coming out of first gear, but everyone complains of weird shifts in the cold. I change my trans fluid as recommended, and have never gotten rid of the cold shift problem. Some say it is a emissions trick to raise engine temp. If you run up the RPMs though it will shift. I have a 97, Every morning in the winter it holds second gear all the way to school (bad for my fuel economy) and everytime I change the fluids it is clean (no metal no burning no fluid lost etc) just a fact of life. And I come from mild winters. I think we got below 50 for a week here in California and that was because of the El Nino rain. Hey my tranny is hitting 170000 miles so I really don't think it is a big deal.

 

Normally no big deal, but it drove me crazy. I've built too many trannys to accept it the way it was. Fluid was BURNT and black, and nasty. Changed it during the cold weather and drove like a different vehicle. Still running the way I think it should. The emission theory sounds plausable though. Little ol' lady drove this one til the wife got it, so don't think it got abused. At least now I am satisfied with tranny function. Good to hear 170K is not a problem. Thanks for the input!

 

my Audi wants 64.98 a qt, but mine when cold act like it’s in 3rd gear and of course gear indicator is lit up solid. You got to drive the car for a little bit until the temperature gauge gets to the normal halfway mark then shut the car off and restart it and the car acts like normal. So I’m hoping a flu change will take care of the problem I am the second owner of the car original owners put 272,000 miles on it.